Nice shots, never tried Program mode indoors, usually have an noise issue, although I see you used flash so that obviously helped. Nicely done.
I fail to understand the desire to use Program Mode?
Just want to know how pictures turn out using Program mode, onboard flash.ttl & kit lens:18-105mm.
Most of the advice I read here and/or read on line says for portrait/headshots, you must use 85mm/2.8 lens and Aperture mode to get good images.
I wanted to find out if I can get good headshots using what I have. i.e. kit lens:18-105mm , onboard flash using Program-mode. Dx cam.
Well you'll have problems finding an 85mm f2.8 lens
Oh oh - don't open up that prime vs. zoom subject again!
Available light and you may need a fast lens, for sure, but with on board flash at this range I think f5.6-f11 would be more beneficial from a DoF point of view. Anything in the 50mm - 200mm range would be applicable, preferably 85mm +
I think the people saying those kinds of things are probably just repeating others who say those kinds of things rather than shooting good images themselves.
Can one get good images from an 85mm lens @ F2.8? Yes - of course. Is one needed for good headshots? No - of course not. FF -v- CF comes into it too - to be honest, I find 85mm on a FF camera too short for headshots - on a CF camera it's a good length though. In reality you can go much longer -- provided you have the room. For head and shoulders - on a FF camera - I'd normally be shooting in the 135 to 200mm range; the compression at 200mm is flattering and it does wonderful things for backgrounds too.
Hi Victor,
I'm not sure how you're managing to do it, but in just about all your shots the skin tones are skewed. I really don't know if the issue is incorrect white balance, mixed lighting, incorrect profiles, or something else, but they're just looking "off". Sharpening isn't looking optimal either. Perhaps we could go through your workflow?
Sorry
Generally it'll produce a good result - but only in ideal conditions. In trickier conditions, it's "play it safe" approach will often compromise the shot.
They also have a menu item to disable it ... which is one of the first things I always do. It's just one of those modes that NEVER gets used (for me) and would be just another setting to cycle through on the way to what I'm really wanting.Even Professional cameras have a Program Mode.
For sure your post/comments are a very welcome perspective to my testing Program-mode.
Their skin tones. Yes, my WB editing may be wrong. Resulting in what you mentioned "skewed".
Maybe I overdid "clarity" -35 or lower.
On the other hand, maybe a little contributing factor in the results, is the subjects try their best to emulate not only
the costumes of their fav anime, but even the skin color of their idols. Such as greenish tone and very pale/white too.
I also noticed, they use thick make-up on their faces such that skin pores are "plastered" over.
My usual workflow is : LR4.4: Crop - White Balance - Basic module - lens correction - brush adjusments.
convert to jpg then additional edits in Helicon Filter 5: resize - noise reduction - sharpening - retouching - framing - save.
Thanks so much for your comments. It inspired me to go over my edits again.
Hi Victor,
My suggestion is to never - ever - use the clarity slider on portraits.
Are you taking a reference shot with a white balance card?
Folks can use it at their own risk; I'd suggest though that if they feel the need to use it (keeping in mind that it's in essence a high radius sharpen) then they're probably just attempting to compensate for an incorrect black point or gamma adjustment. Personally I never - ever - use (positive) clarity on portraits - all it does is produce unflattering emphasis of things that we don't want to emphasise (eg darken eye sockets, draw attention to cheekbones, collar bones etc). Pretty much same for contrast. On the rarest of occasions I have used a bit of negative clarity to fix a problem with someone else's image though.
On the other hand, I do agonise over correct levels adjustments.
For comparison, here are some SOOC.
Used viewNX2 to downsize/convert to 640.jpg
Please take note of their make-up thickness/tone.
kit lens:18-105mm @105mm. AF Area mode: Single
Program mode: f/6.3, 1/125, ISO2500. matrix metering.
WB=auto. onboard flash:ttl.
Nikon D5100.kit lens:18-105mm @105mm. Focus Mode:AF-S.
AF Area mode: Single
Program mode: f/5.6, 1/125, ISO1800.
matrix metering. WB=auto. onboard flash:ttl.
Nikon D5100.
kit lens:18-105mm @105mm. Focus Mode:AF-S.
AF Area mode: Single
Program mode: f/6.3, 1/125, ISO2200.
matrix metering. WB=auto. onboard flash:ttl.
Last edited by nimitzbenedicto; 27th July 2014 at 05:43 AM.