one type of macro rig

[ajohnw]

I'm going to add a diffuser but would like to see some more difficult shots where reflections are a problem that haven't been retouched.

This for instance was shot without flash and the sun covered by cloud - big bright patch in the sky.




This one was shot on a duller day with flash and no diffuser



The most common reflection problem seems to be the leaves.

This was the "rig" used the aerial at some point will allow me to try various angles such as the one Richard uses. As it is the flash fires directly ahead.



What a zoom! It gives better results with an achromatic close up lens on m 4/3 than a Sigma macro lens does. It seems to be a close match to the Olympus macro lens as well but maybe not at 1:1.

John
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[William W]

. . . I am posting pictures and explanation here for anyone who is interested. There are lots of different ways to do this, but some of the principles are the same regardless.

Top Quality Post

Learnt a lot.

Thanks so much for taking the time and effort.

regards,

Bill

[rpcrowe]

This is great, Richard....I am not home at the moment but I finally get to google your rig and it seems interesting...thank you for uploading this. Now I have another reason to succumb to the GAS attitude mode. As soon as I get home, B&H will hear from me. -- with my credit card number.

Izzie...

The Siegelite bracket is no longer produced and thus cannot be purchased new any longer. However it is usually available on eBay. Here are some that are available at this time:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...e&_sacat=89161

There are three available from $2.99 (bid amount) to $14.99 and 18.95 (buy it now). The Siegelite Stratos 835, IS NOT the bracket that I am referring to...

BTW: This bracket can be used for other forms of flash work besides macro...

[IzzieK]

Richard...thank you for the info. I will go there this morning later on to check on your link and maybe chose the buy one option. I saw a post of Manfred in another post about another bracket he uses for pano work so now I will weigh the advantage between the two and throw in the Lumiquest softbox to complete my rig. Have to think fast and think smart so I can keep myself busy while taking care of Tucker...

[Jill]

Dan, Thanks you so much for explaining how you do your macro. I know it takes a while to explain so thoroughly.
This has inspired me so much. Macro I tend to get frustrated with, give it up only to return again in a few months a try again.
Right now I feel it is within my grasp. This, what you have described is practical, make sense to me.

I went to your website, its great. The flowers I wondered if they were more controlled macro such as focus stacking.

Thanks again Jill

[DanK]

Jill,

You're welcome, and thanks for the comment on my site. Yes, most of the flowers were stacked. I generally do them inside, using a setup like this one:



I hope you won't be deterred by frustration. At least in my experience, a low keeper rate is just part of the package for field-based macro. I've been doing a lot of macro for quite some time, perhaps 6 years, and I still have a very low keeper rate when I chase bugs. I often miss focus, and when I do nail the focus, I often end up with a lousy composition. One of the nice things about digital is that you can try again and again. So I would say: just keep at it. Your keeper rate will gradually increase.

[JR1]

Bugs and macro don't interest me but a VERY informative thread thanks Dan

[Jill]

Dan, I have been trying focus stacking lately and finding my lighting has been all over the place.
Taken with camera on manual. Flash lighting. When that didn't work I went to constant lighting and still each image was varying lightness. Then I went to Aperture priority better. Can't figure out why this would be.

[Stagecoach]

Dan, I have been trying focus stacking lately and finding my lighting has been all over the place.
Taken with camera on manual. Flash lighting. When that didn't work I went to constant lighting and still each image was varying lightness. Then I went to Aperture priority better. Can't figure out why this would be.

Hi Jill,

Here's some input......................

Regarding maintaining constant lighting (for constant exposure) when using flash there is a possibility your flash is not recharging to the same level between shots when in manual camera settings.

Not sure why if in Manual camera settings you are not getting constant exposure levels with constant lighting.

Personally I would persevere with Manual settings on the camera if stacking.

What is the depth of the stack you have attempted?

Is the variation in exposure (image lightness) between shots random OR do the they gradually getting darker towards the farthest most shot?

Edit - additional info:

If using fluorescent lighting these can cycle in both brightness and colour temperature which may give you a noticeable difference when comparing assumed similarly exposed images

Grahame

[GeorgeM]

Here's a link to a macro shooter on flickr, Nicky Bay, who uses a two-flash setup:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nickadel/15726470033/
His work is outstanding

[jcuknz]

Thanks Dan, very interesting thread. have recently started macro and was thinking of ring flash, (only a Viltrox JY670 manual) but had doubts re flat lighting. A diffuser on a standard flash seems a good approach and one I read about more and more.

I believe that some cover part of the ring when they want less flat lighting.

[GeorgeM]

I believe that some cover part of the ring when they want less flat lighting.

I've seen some ring lights that allow you to turn off part of the ring.

[ashcroft]

I've seen some ring lights that allow you to turn off part of the ring.

I have a Sigma em140 ring flash that allows different power settings on each side of the ring. You can still buy them. Also allowsyou to get the light very close to the subjet.

[ajohnw]

Dan, I have been trying focus stacking lately and finding my lighting has been all over the place.
Taken with camera on manual. Flash lighting. When that didn't work I went to constant lighting and still each image was varying lightness. Then I went to Aperture priority better. Can't figure out why this would be.

I agree with Dan you should stick with full manual and stick to the same exposure. The exposure may need a couple of trial shots to establish the most suitable one if it's drifting as you either move the camera or change the focus.

When using flash I try and ensure that it's making a serious contribution to the lighting. Say setting an exposure of -2EV or more so that the flash has to make that up. If you are focus stacking something BIG flash wont work out due to the light intensity falling off with distance. Your flash is probably using TTL even when the camera is set manually. That allows it to set a different exposure on every shot. Same thing here, if it can be used manually it can't.

John
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