Condensation.

[JBW]

My Fujifilm is built to withstand only 80% humidity. Maybe not a problem if you live in the desert but a problem in the tropics. Is this the norm or are there other manufacturers with better humidity protection?

[lukaswerth]

Brian,

similar problems here in Lahore at least during Monsoon season. I suppose you have some AC in your home? Keep your equipment in where your AC runs most of the time, as this dramatically pulls down humidity.
Otherwise, my general advice it to take it easy. There is silica gel which you have to heat up (to 50 C°) once it turns pink to get the deep blue color again - and this happens fast if you continue to open your box - or, someone else suggested, add a sachet of rice grains to your equipment, replace when soggy. I don't know, however, how effective this is.
You might think of getting yourself a Pelican case for your equipment: they are air-tight, supposed to swim also when you lose one in water. If you add a sachet of Silica gel inside there, this should be fine at least until you start opening the box again.

- Oh yes, regarding your original question: I don't know, but I wouldn't altogether trust manufacturers' specifications. Some are simply more optimistic than others, and Fujifilm cameras have a good reputation.

Lukas

[JBW]

Brian,

similar problems here in Lahore at least during Monsoon season. I suppose you have some AC in your home? Keep your equipment in where your AC runs most of the time, as this dramatically pulls down humidity.
Otherwise, my general advice it to take it easy. There is silica gel which you have to heat up (to 50 C°) once it turns pink to get the deep blue color again - and this happens fast if you continue to open your box - or, someone else suggested, add a sachet of rice grains to your equipment, replace when soggy. I don't know, however, how effective this is.
You might think of getting yourself a Pelican case for your equipment: they are air-tight, supposed to swim also when you lose one in water. If you add a sachet of Silica gel inside there, this should be fine at least until you start opening the box again.

- Oh yes, regarding your original question: I don't know, but I wouldn't altogether trust manufacturers' specifications. Some are simply more optimistic than others, and Fujifilm cameras have a good reputation.

Lukas

I never trust a manufacturers claim! I do keep my camera between two voltage regulators and beside my laptop. The problem is when I am outside and am unable to keep the camera in the shade. Instant mist on the LCD display which puts an end to shooting for a while. But as it is monsoon and typhoon season direct sunlight is not always a problem.

[IzzieK]

Rice is plentiful over there Brian...it is what I use no matter what equipment I have that is portable...even phones that mysteriously swam in the pool...

[JBW]

Rice is plentiful over there Brian...it is what I use no matter what equipment I have that is portable...even phones that mysteriously swam in the pool...

If it is plentiful it is because we import so darn much.

[Shadowman]

I know you aren't interested in a new camera, but in answer to your question Fujifilm and other camera manufacturers do sell underwater cameras, while most only list maximum depth and temperature for operating conditions; these units should obviously work in humidity above 80%; although I've been told time is limited to 30 minutes.

[Stagecoach]

My Fujifilm is built to withstand only 80% humidity. Maybe not a problem if you live in the desert but a problem in the tropics. Is this the norm or are there other manufacturers with better humidity protection?

Brian,

I have had my D300 for over 6 years, it's spent the majority of its time at sea or on land right next to the sea and very regularly in extremely high humidity conditions. You can take precautions with storage but remember that every time that lens goes in and out humid air is sucked in and there's no way you can do anything about it.

As you are someone that uses a camera just about every day I would simply accept that at some time it may prematurely die due to the atmosphere, or, it may not

My one is now corroded all down one side has mould behind the LCD and when it does die I'll accept that I have had over 6 years great use out of it in bad conditions and buy another.

Grahame

[JBW]

Brian,

I have had my D300 for over 6 years, it's spent the majority of its time at sea or on land right next to the sea and very regularly in extremely high humidity conditions. You can take precautions with storage but remember that every time that lens goes in and out humid air is sucked in and there's no way you can do anything about it.

As you are someone that uses a camera just about every day I would simply accept that at some time it may prematurely die due to the atmosphere, or, it may not

My one is now corroded all down one side has mould behind the LCD and when it does die I'll accept that I have had over 6 years great use out of it in bad conditions and buy another.

Grahame

Sounds like a plan to me.

[DanK]

Brian,

similar problems here in Lahore at least during Monsoon season. I suppose you have some AC in your home? Keep your equipment in where your AC runs most of the time, as this dramatically pulls down humidity.
Otherwise, my general advice it to take it easy. There is silica gel which you have to heat up (to 50 C°) once it turns pink to get the deep blue color again - and this happens fast if you continue to open your box - or, someone else suggested, add a sachet of rice grains to your equipment, replace when soggy. I don't know, however, how effective this is.
You might think of getting yourself a Pelican case for your equipment: they are air-tight, supposed to swim also when you lose one in water. If you add a sachet of Silica gel inside there, this should be fine at least until you start opening the box again.

- Oh yes, regarding your original question: I don't know, but I wouldn't altogether trust manufacturers' specifications. Some are simply more optimistic than others, and Fujifilm cameras have a good reputation.

Lukas

When I am in a very humid environment, I do exactly what Lukas suggests: I store my gear in a Pelican case with two canisters of silica gel. However, Pelican cases are not cheap, and any plastic container that seals should be OK. Also, I think it is not the silica gel itself that turns colors, but rather an additive, because different brands turn different colors. I use Pelican canisters, which go from orange when dry to almost clear when hydrated. Just make sure you buy some that has a colorant, so that you can tell when it needs to be dehydrated.

[JR1]

Rice is plentiful over there Brian...it is what I use no matter what equipment I have that is portable...even phones that mysteriously swam in the pool...

Rice is an urban myth and does not work the only thing that does is

http://www.speedypack.co.uk/wrapping...8wJRoCPsvw_wcB

[IzzieK]

Rice is an urban myth and does not work the only thing that does is

http://www.speedypack.co.uk/wrapping...8wJRoCPsvw_wcB

It depends on how you use it. For non-Asian people who do not eat rice everyday like we Asians do, we know how to use rice to remove condensation from almost anything from hearing aids to wet iphones that needed to be dried and also to hasten up ripening of some fruits.

[george013]

It depends on how you use it. For non-Asian people who do not eat rice everyday like we Asians do, we know how to use rice to remove condensation from almost anything from hearing aids to wet iphones that needed to be dried and also to hasten up ripening of some fruits.

An old trick to put rice in the salt cellar, keeps the salt dry.

One other remark, you only get condensation on your camera when the camera is colder then the surroundings.
If the air is cooled on the camera, then you get condensation. If the temperature is the same not.

George

[xpatUSA]

An old trick to put rice in the salt cellar, keeps the salt dry.

One other remark, you only get condensation on your camera when the camera is colder then the surroundings.
If the air is cooled on the camera, then you get condensation. If the temperature is the same not.

George

Just to clarify that, George, the camera can be cooler than it's surroundings without condensation provided it's temperature is more than the dew point. Another link here explains the relevance of dew point to the 'long-term preservation of collection materials'. The calculator is of special interest because it predicts the possibility of mold!

Somewhat more complication appears when we consider that the internal atmosphere in the camera takes time to equalize with the external environment. So it is that waiting for a fogged front lens to clear is no guarantee that the internal elements have yet cleared.

I wrote a somewhat related article some time back about people keeping their watch collection in the freezer!

http://tcktek.blogspot.com/2007/11/s...watch-sir.html

[loosecanon]

The problem is of course that electronics do not like high humidity, and certainly not so high moisture forms on the circuitry. In the tropics the problem is worse because warm air can carry a lot more water, as it cools the RH rises and so condensation forms on electronics (and of course also on lenses).
Even in UK I store kit in large plastic boxes which seal, with silica gel to keep the humidity down. Also keeps the bugs away.
In most cases in use the camera electronics provide sufficient heat to keep the internals above due point, except when taken from a warm humid place into a cold environment when the warm humid air inside the camera will cool and water condense out. This is why it can be a good thing when going outdoors to take the lens off the camera and let the cold dry air replace the warm humid air inside the camera. Coming into the warm on a cold day it is best to keep the camera in its bag of dry air and allow it to slowly warm up avoiding the risk of condensation. In most cases the condensation on the outside of the camera including the viewfinder doesn't matter, what does is condensation inside on the electronics, so don't change lenses on a cold camera in a warm humid room..

[george013]

Just to clarify that, George, the camera can be cooler than it's surroundings without condensation provided it's temperature is more than the dew point. Another link here explains the relevance of dew point to the 'long-term preservation of collection materials'. The calculator is of special interest because it predicts the possibility of mold!

Somewhat more complication appears when we consider that the internal atmosphere in the camera takes time to equalize with the external environment. So it is that waiting for a fogged front lens to clear is no guarantee that the internal elements have yet cleared.

I wrote a somewhat related article some time back about people keeping their watch collection in the freezer!

http://tcktek.blogspot.com/2007/11/s...watch-sir.html

The Molier-diagram is a diagram that shows different values and the dependecy of each other. I searced for one in the English language and a big diagram. https://procesosbio.wikispaces.com/f...ER+DIAGRAM.pdf

Cooling enlarges humidity and when reaches 100% causes condensation. So take care when in the tropical area with high humidity you leave a airconditioned house. Or entering a warm house in the winter in some other areas.

George

[xpatUSA]

The Molier-diagram is a diagram that shows different values and the dependecy of each other. I searced for one in the English language and a big diagram. https://procesosbio.wikispaces.com/f...ER+DIAGRAM.pdf

Cooling enlarges humidity and when reaches 100% causes condensation. So take care when in the tropical area with high humidity you leave a airconditioned house. Or entering a warm house in the winter in some other areas.

George

Thank you for the well-meant advice.

I am familiar with the Mollier diagram from a previous life as an engineer involved with steam turbines and related systems (boilers, etc).

Personally, living more or less at 225' AMSL, I find this diagram a little more intuitive:

[george013]

Thank you for the well-meant advice.

I am familiar with the Mollier diagram from a previous life as an engineer involved with steam turbines and related systems (boilers, etc).

Personally, living more or less at 225' AMSL, I find this diagram a little more intuitive:

I read your links, so I thought so.
Are you also driving on the wrong side of the road?

I like the diagram. You can play with the figures. Not that it brings you somewhere, but you can develop some feelings for the subject.

George