LR5 > PSCC > Nik Workflow

[Polar01]

Shane that I stated was ETTR in extreme, remember when you look at the image or histogram on the back of the camera the information you are getting is from the camera generated jpeg not the raw data. This means if shooting in raw you have at least one more stop of data that the sensor could have and can collect
Most times when we process a raw image we move the sliders (exposure, shadows, highlights) to the right to increase brightness, and detail in the shadows. Now think of this, if the image is overexposed but the highlights are not clipped, then we can still move those sliders (highlights, shadows, exposure) but now to the left to darken the image. Now darkening the image does not create as much noise as there is more data in those areas (if there is data then there is less noise).
As Dave has shown knowing how to use NR on a raw image also does wonders, now if you can nail the optimum exposure then you will need less NR.
I am adding a link that I hope will help explain it better, it does make sense once you start to wrap your head around it, in my case still wrapping, but it does work.
http://luminous-landscape.com/the-op...ital-exposure/

Cheers: Allan

[chauncey]

FWIW...to get a more accurate representation of that jpeg histogram that shows on your camera's
LCD screen...go into your camera settings and neutralize them all, set them to zero.

[Manfred M]

Shane the important thing to understand is how noise reduction works and both the intended and unintended consequences of using it in images like the ones you have posted. As others have pointed out, underexposure is the main culprit in your images, and avoiding it in the future would be the first bit of advice I would suggest.

Now that the noise is there, figuring out what to do about is is the key consideration. Noise (in this instance, chromatic or colour) noise) is the main culprit. All noise reduction programs do the same thing to reduce noise; a process called "pixel smearing". Here adjacent pixels are blended together, so overall, the pixels causing the noise are made less bright.

The end effect of noise reduction is an overall softening of the image; and this is generally not desirable, as you the photographer are left trading off two undesirable impacts on the image; noise and softness. When you sharpen an image that has had noise reduction applied to it, some of the noise will come back, in addition to other "artifacts" from the specific algorithms you have pushed the image through.

The technique Dave has suggested uses some of the "head room" in the RAW data to partially sidestep the underexposure problems in your image.

Another "trick" to use in noisy images is to convert them to B&W. Luminance noise is usually less of an issue than chrominance noise and can sometimes actually enhance an image.

As for your concerns of shallow DoF on both of your images; frankly I think in your concerns about shooting wide open you have ended up with both an underexposed image with deeper DoF than is necessary for a compelling image. You bought a fast (f/2.8 lens) and are afraid to use it. If it were my shot, I would have shot wide open and focused on the nearest eye of the subject (using centre focus mode); locked that focus and reframed my shot . That would have given you a sharp focus on the part of the face that counts, a softer background and a well exposed image (and we likely wouldn't be discussing noise reduction at all). I personally would not have had any issues shooting either image with a shutter speed of around 1/50th or 1/60th sec, to gain me a bit more light too; at the risk of a slight amount of motion blur.

Let me demonstrate with a "portrait"; taken with a wide open lens about 45 minutes before sunset (fading, low light) at ISO 4000.



If you look closely, the image is actually fairly noisy, but being properly exposed, one doesn't really notice it too much. I focused on the eyes, which are quite sharp, but the background is nicely soft and out of focus. Parts of the body are a bit soft, but as long as the eyes are sharp, it doesn't matter very much. I used a long lens (127mm focal length, which would be around 250mm FF equiv)), so focus plane issues are even more critical than in your shots.

In my view, worry less about DoF and more about proper exposure; focus on the right part of the image you'll get a more compelling image that way.

[ShaneS]

Thank you for the additional responses Dave, Allan and Manfred. Since I am new to low light shooting your suggestions will be put to good use when I try again and I will report back.

When I have a moment I may practice on the lightest version I posted despite the fact that I know it is not a keeper. I need to understand the limits and impact of noise reduction software so this will also be helpful in the learning process I think.

Many thanks!