Lydia

[William W]

RPart 4

OK – so we are done with looking silly taking pictures of the grass and we have chosen the ISO – with practice that takes about ten seconds to do. With more practice it is done before you get there
Now we need to choose the CAMERA MODE . . .

Shutter Priority; Aperture Priority or Program Mode are the choices that will give you manual override capacity via EXPOSURE COMPENSATION and thereby be very useful for LEARNING new SKILLS.

I am choosing NOT to comment on either Program Mode or Exposure Compensation. For the purposes of progressing you skills in The Craft at this time, I believe it would be sufficient for you to choose either Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority for that Shooting Scenario.

Although often seemingly counter intuitive, if one knows the EV range of the Shooting Scenario Aperture Priority is usually arguably the better choice, because, when shooting Subjects in the bright areas of the scene, the Shutter speed will always be faster than 1/400s and that will afford you extra safety apropos blur due to Camera Shake or Subject Movement - the ONLY consideration is ensuring that when making a shot the darkest area of the shooting scenario at the SELECTED APERTURE and ISO, there will be adequate Shutter Speed

So let’s choose Aperture Priority and set the Aperture to F/8. (Let’s also for a moment just forget about Depth of Field altogether).

BUT – (thinking backwards and to my point above) we know that IF we get into shooting in the darkest area of the playground and we use F/8 then we will need ISO800 to maintain 1/400s – so there are considerations that you must take into account with these choices that you make. . . . so a choice of ISO800 would be prudent

WW


Addendum:

On the other hand why not choose Shutter Priority and select 1/400s to use - well that's an option, but one I would argue in this particular shooting scenario is the less better. If we set S Mode and selected 1/400s as the Shutter Speed and ISO 800 as the ISO, then when the kids are in the (assumed) brightest area of the Shooting Scenario, we would be pulling F/22 @ 1/400s @ ISO800 - and that will/may have other problems regarding image quality - AND - we will always be at 1/400s and 1/400s might just not be the actual safest shutter speed.

That's the main reason why I wrote although it appears counter intuitive to use A Mode - it does seem logical on first glance to simply select a safe shutter speed and run with it. There are other reasons not to choose S Mode, but they are minor in this particular conversation.

[William W]

Part 5

Making Mistakes:

An IMPORTANT POINT to realize is that it is not the end of the world if you make a mistake - - - but rather it is a really good thing.

IF my assumptions about the LIGHTING at shooting scenarios are correct, I postulate that if you had used: Matrix Metering Mode; ISO 800; Aperture Priority; Set F/8 and shot away you would have made more images as ‘first cull keepers” and that means you would have fewer “first cull chuck outs”.

Now it is having fewer “chuck outs” which is important on two counts: firstly there is more satisfaction chucking out fewer shots in the first cull and secondly there are fewer dud shots to investigate so as to work out what went wrong.

All you have to do is set about having a protocol to set up your camera for the job that it has to do for each shooting scenario and make your choices based on some purposeful and thoughtful reasons – sure you might get some reasoning wrong: your reason might be totally way off base, but if you can articulate YOUR reason for making each CHOICE when you set up your camera, then it is a lot easier to think through by yourself or discuss with others what would be better to do next time and knowing what to do better next time is the predicate of LEARNING The Craft.

WW

[William W]

Part 6

A few other points for your consideration:

Took a while to get the guts to post this,

Yes. That’s human. “My work is not good enough.” “What will they say?” “I am only a beginner.”

*

but next time I'll try to post right away so I don't forget things like this!

Yes that’s human too: please STOP “try”, just do.

*

I suggest that you NEED to stop that little voice in your head now and just “do it”.

What is the worst that can happen to you if you "just do"?

I could be the grumpiest old fart on any forum and I don’t even know where you live and if I did it would cost me too much time effort and money to fly over and tell you that you are doing a GOOD job – so why not just post photos here and that it make it so much easier and also quicker for ALL those here willing to offer assistance to you.

WW

[William W]

Part 7

The “horrible critique”

AND - moreover – and this is VERY IMPORTANT – if anyone does critique your work as ‘crap’ or similar words – always tell them that their opinion is much valued and then ALWAYS, ALWAYS ask “Why do you think that, specifically?”

WW

[William W]

Part 8

The lens that you chose

Lens: AF-S Nikkor 55-200mm 1:4-5.6G ED (Is this the right information? Sorry, I'm so new at this I'm not even sure what's what sometimes! ) It's the lens that came with the camera. I did not use a hood or a filter. I believe all I did in Photoshop was: cropped some off the right, then used the "adjust for skin tones" from the Enhance menu, and adjusted the levels a bit. I will work on learning how to sharpen and use my clone tool.

Thanks. Yes it is very useful information. Thank you.

Yes, notice in the original there is that blue cast which I mentioned. That is one tell of the Subject being in OPEN SHADE the “adjust for skin tones” didn’t get it 100% correct but it was reasonably close.

You probably have an 18 to 55 lens also?

There seems a passion for beginners to want to use a telephoto lens for “people photos especially candids”. They want to stand off a distance from the Subject and ‘snipe’. This might not describe you but if it does I suggest that you try to use your 18 to 55 lens more often (if you do not already).

It is all about the PERSPECTIVE of the PHOTOGRAPH.

Capa - "If your photographs aren't good enough, you're not close enough.”

WW

[William W]

Part 9

More on Manual Mode:

I think you choose MANUAL Mode because you want to learn how to use Manual Mode?

Anyway let’s run with that as the reason. . . That’s a great objective and goal to learn how to be excellent using Manual Mode. But was MANUAL MODE the best for that particular SHOOTING SCENARIO of kids running in and out of light and shade, for a beginner to learn – I don’t think so?

I think that a shooting scenario of kids running around the playground would be fantastic to test your skills in MANUAL MODE once you have mastered the basics of MANUAL MODE to test your RESPONSE TIME and as a DRILL for your anticipation of a LIGHTING CHANGES.

(Using)Manual Mode does not make you a better or a more accomplished photographer. I think there is more hype and peer pressure to use Manual Mode than there is to have the ‘right’ label on the shirt or dress . . . I digress.

The point is Manual Mode is useful in many shooting scenarios but I suggest that you temper that fact with the fact that there is also a lot of hype to attain ‘the credentials’ of “I use Manual Mode”.

For example if you asked me today: “What Camera Mode to you use?” – (this is a question often asked on Forums – a question at which I giggle but often do answer factually).

My answer would be – “Manual Mode about 95 % of the time; Aperture about 3% of the time Program Mode about 2 % of the time and rarely Shutter Priority” . . .

(and then this is the part I giggle at) the conversation most always turns to discussion “Manual Mode or Aperture Priority which is better” – with a nuance of “What Mode do the best (‘professional’) Photographers use?”.

That’s just so silly. Never can I remember the poster of that type of question on any forum asking a follow up direct question: ”OK, thanks for answering. You use Manual Mode 95% of the time – why do you CHOOSE that Mode so often?” Or asking another “Oh OK you always use Aperture Priority why do you choose that do you do that?”

Or better – “geez I investigated the vast experience of some Photographers who answered and some of you shoot manual nearly all the time and some of you shoot Aperture Priority all the time – and I looked at some of your pictures and they are all pretty good – why do some choose Manual and some of choose Aperture Priority?”

WW

[William W]

Part 10

Your reward

If you have read this far, then you deserve a Mars Bar a reward – buy one and send me the account. That’s your reward.

And also a real life practical example – just to show I am not kidding.

As mentioned, a big part of this Photography stuff is about knowing what the task is (defining it); appreciating the shooting scenario; then prepping the camera for that particular task in that particular shooting scenario. But I also mentioned the “Opportunity Shot” or the “Grab Shot” – you were basically shooting your other kids playing and you had the opportunity to grab this shot of the baby – but you had little time to prepare anything – probably only the framing and focus.

You asked “how could I do that particular shot better next time”

My best answer is - it could have been a better shot if you had better prepared your camera for the shooting scenario:

> If you were at ISO800 you would have had less noise;

> If you were MATRIX metering you would have (arguably) had better exposure;

> If you were is A Mode you would have not hesitated (and I bet TWO MARS BARS you did hesitate for AT LEAST a second or two to THINK about MANUAL MODE) and without that hesitation you might have utilized that second or two to - - -

A. better time the shot for expression;

B. better frame the shot for composition;

C. move to a better place for a better angle.

*

As mentioned here is an example of 'Opportunity Shot' that I pulled a few years ago.

The Shooting Scenario: The Photographer was at an High School Graduation. The Photographer had just moved outside, from previously using this camera (a 5D; EF 35/1.4; 580 Hotshoe Mounted Flash with bounce card) inside to take shots of some Awardees being presented. For these presentation shots the camera was in set Manual Mode; Flash Set auto mode with FEC set; ISO 200 and Aperture @ F/8.

BEFORE walking out of the auditorium I held that camera toward the open doorway to make an exposure reading of the outside ambient background and reset Aperture and Shutter speed to allow the Flash to be used as Fill, not Key, and also considered the Aperture for a more shallow DoF shooting outside as one of the “Outputs” that I required was Subject Separation in my Candid Portraiture. BUT whilst I was re-adjusting this first camera of two I was carrying, I saw the opportunity for this grab shot as this Graduand Student was making her way toward her Mother to embrace her and she was about to break down with emotion.


"Emotion at Graduation"
Image © AJ Group Pty Ltd (AUS) 1996~2015

There were still two technical issues to overcome, and not enough time to reset other camera on which I had a 24 to 70 zoom. These two technical issues both involved the shooting distance: the Shooting Distance had to be shortened to make the flash useful and the Shooting Distance had to be shortened to make the Perspective “Intimate”. I just ran and shot to the side of the head of another student with my eye not to the viewfinder: the Flash has made some impact as Fill and the Background Ambient is nicely balanced because I had already re-adjusted the exposure settings to accommodate that ambient light.

Also, for example and also just to confirm that re-adjustment would have also been necessary in even if I were using Aperture Priority Mode in the Auditorium - I would have still would been using F/8 inside and if I used F/8 outside and even if I had changed only the ISO to suit the outdoor Ambient Light, I would not have attained the same Subject Separation, which enhances the Intimate Perspective attained by getting in close, to the Subject. Also there are other considerations of Shutter Speed and Maximum Flash Sync Speed, when using Av Mode and moving from Indoors to Outdoors and visa-versa but that again is another topic – suffice to say it is important to have the protocol of re-adjusting for each new shooting scenario and each new output.

It is not an award winning shot, but the Mum loves it and technically, it is OK – and that was the OUTPUT that I required - I just wanted to capture the EMOTION of the moments outside. Had I not already began to re-adjust my camera for that next lighting scenario before I moved outside then I would not have made that particular shot.

That’s akin to you making some of your preparatory CHOICES and adjustments to your camera at home or in the car or on the walk to the playground and upon arrival at the playground making an exposure reading of the grass under the shaded tree to give you information upon which you can best PREPARE your camera for the tasks it has to do to give you the OUTPUTS that you have DEFINED in any particular SHOOTING SCENARIO.

WW

If you have read this far then you must be tired. I am.

[Cantab]

Bill, I want to thank you for the time and thought you put into preparing your multiple posts. I've found them interesting and helpful. I'm sure many others will as well - quite apart from the original poster.

[klpurkett]

Bill, you have no idea how much I appreciate your extensive response! I read through it this morning and am so excited to get out and put your advice into practice... That is, after I reread it a couple times, research the 'f/16 rule', and take a little time to digest it all. Thank you for so generously giving of your time and expertise to help me figure this out!!! The timing of this is so helpful, as I am doing my sister's senior pictures next week; now I feel a lot more confident that I will be able to get some keepers. I will, of course, be practicing a good deal this weekend! Oh, and I will look for a Mars Bar, but I'm not sure we have them in this area... I was so engrossed in reading your tutorial this morning that my older kids (4 and 2 years) practically turned the kitchen upside down without me even noticing. It was totally worth it!

[William W]

I think that I do have some idea.

Don't let the 2 year old and the 4 year old eat your Mars Bar.

Mars Bars are very yummy.

They were the measure of worth and the currency of bribery when my daughters were young: both remain chocoholics and can still be bribed, but it costs many more Mars Bars to do so now they have been educated and are older.

Apropos the essay preceding, you and CiC are both welcome.

Take it at your own pace and always ask questions of yourself and of your work.

Kids are very important, arguably the most important element that the world has.

WW