Newbie in learning

[William W]

I am not sure but the feeling is like the picture isn't enough.Dont know which to point out...maybe is the lighting from the bottom right or is it framing.

OK that's a good start.

To help you describe what you like and dislike in you own photograph, compare the edit that John did and the edit that I did with your original to see what you like and dislike about each and then think about why you like and dislike those things.

WW

[William W]

Concerning Sloping Buildings:

If the camera can be level and still frame all that is required in the shot then that saves time and effort in Post Production.

If the camera must be tilted up or down to frame the shot, then knowing how to correct converging verticals in Post Production is important too.

Both are important to know.

WW

[jcuknz]

And if you have money to burn you buy yourself a rising front gadget for your [D]SLR so you do not nee to raise the camera

[jcuknz]

I am not sure but the feeling is like the picture isn't enough.Dont know which to point out...maybe is the lighting from the bottom right or is it framing.

You need to understand that photographers take pictures to remember the happening and occasionally the image has something more to it. The photograph I worked on was a pleasing and competent record shot and didn't really need any adjustments except by jaded photo watchers seeking to correct possible 'errors'. Sometimes a title will make a shot more appealing to the viewer if it is apt.
That I have yet to see a shot from you that 'grabs' me is simply par for the course and much the same as when I browse my own files ... but every shot has a purpose and meaning at the time it was taken or to help us remember the event. And in that is justified to keep its place in our folders but not to emerge unless it shows something of particular interest to somebody.

[thenuts15]

How do we take this kind stunning photos?Are all these edited by software?

[Stagecoach]

How do we take this kind stunning photos?Are all these edited by software?

Godfrey,

With respect to No 1 the most important thing here is finding a good vantage point for the scene, and then having a tripod with you.

Then spend time getting things framed and level and then focus, the smaller the aperture the greater the DoF.

For exposure you have some options, do you want to freeze or see movement in the big wheel? With that decided and using the lowest ISO you can get away with take a test shot, examine the image on the LCD using the histogram and blinkies and adjust accordingly. I do not suspect the image has had anything special done to it in post processing.

As I do not know the source of image No 2 I will not comment other than to say I suspect it was taken hand held by looking at the Exif data.

[Manfred M]

How do we take this kind stunning photos?

1. Be at the right place - you need a scene that works.

2. Be there at the right time - weather conditions, time of day, buildings illuminated, fireworks going off, etc. You can't pull shots like these at mid-day or during a rainstorm.

3. You need the right equipment (camera that you can control the ISO, aperture, shutter speed helps). You may or may not require a special lens, a tripod, etc. The second shot was taken with a Canon PowerShot SX40 HS camera; a "superzoom"; so high end equipment is obviously not necessary.

4. You need to know how to use your camera and other equipment (although sometimes people do pull off a "lucky shot"). That takes practice; lots and lots of practice.

Are all these edited by software?

First one, yes (the logo in the image was added in software, so likely other post-processing was done).

The second one probably not (I'm guessing this is correct based on the image metadata).

You need a good image to start with. No software is going to tak a lousy image and turn it into a great one. That being said, it certainly can help.

Many advanced photographers will shoot in camera RAW rather than use the jpeg the camera outputs, and the moment you do this, you need software to create the image.

So you don't need software to create great images, but it certainly comes in useful.

[thenuts15]

Hi,

is it a must to have dry cabinet for my DSLR?

If yes,i am thinking of getting AIPO Analog Series AS-31 Dry Cabinet (31L) with Digital Display.Any comments/suggestions?

My budget is US100

Thank you.

[William W]

. . . is it a must to have dry cabinet for my DSLR?

I live 3km from the sea. Temperature today was 27C and Humidity 95%. That's typical Summer. I don't use a dry cabinet and I chuck those gel desiccant bags far away. I don't leave cameras or lenses in camera bags. I store them in two, two drawer Filing Cabinets with extra holes drilled in them to allow air flow. These filing cabinets are situated against and Inside Wall of a room away from: Laundry; Bathrooms and Kitchen.

This is and always has been an hotly debated subject and opinions vary.

WW

[thenuts15]

What setting do you guys always use for taking a group photo for workshop?Do you play no flash mode or u guys play AV mode?

[William W]

What setting do you guys always use for taking a group photo for workshop?Do you play no flash mode or u guys play AV mode?

I wouldn't always use the same settings.

As a priority, I would make sure that the APERTURE that I choose would allow for an adequate DEPTH OF FIELD for the group arrangement.

Then the settings that I would use would be dependent upon the lighting -

1. Shooting in Available Light
I would usually use M Mode for Available Light, sometimes Av Mode, but rarely.
I would then choose a SHUTTER SPEED to ensure there was no SUBJECT MOVEMENT captured.
Those two choices would then determine the ISO that would be necessary to use.
Generally, if using the Camera's TTL Meter I would make one or two spot meter readings on a known skin-tone and manually calculate the exposure, however, especially in confused side lighting, using EVALUATIVE METERING MODE (Canon) or MATRIX METERING (Nikon) is very useful for group portraiture in Available Light, but note that a Bracket of Exposures plus and minus two thirds of a Stop, is very handy insurance.

2.Shooting in Speedlite Flash
I would usually use the Camera in Manual Mode; rarely but sometimes in P Mode; highly unlikely in fact never that I can recall that I use Av or Tv Mode with Speedlite Flash.

Speedlite Flash would be most likely in TTL Auto Mode, but maybe in Manual Mode if I were using an Hand Held Flash Meter

If Flash is in TTL Auto Mode, then I use FLASH EXPOSURE COMPENSATION to suit the correct exposure for the SUBJECTS.

3.Shooting in Studio Flash
If I were using STUDIO FLASH, I would use an HAND HELD FLASH METER to calculate the exposure.

WW

[Richard Lundberg]

I think you do good work.Don't follow any cropping advice until you really agree based on lots more experience. It's impossible to comment on technical matters based on Tinypic posts, the quality is reduced so much. Link to a site that has full quality storage.