This is my last go-round with this image, for now at least. Thanks to Colin for his help on it, and also thanks to Rob for posting his image and his feelings on hdr. I think for now I am with Rob in feeling that in some cases (this image included), even though you sometimes go through undoing some of the hdr effects on images that don't demand it from a dynamic range perspective, you can create a mood that would otherwise be unattainable. As my skills improve, there is the chance that I could change my mind about that, but should that happen I won't feel that I have 'taken the long way around' because the best way to learn is by doing, and not necessarily accepting or discarding things outright.
In this version of the image, I went though the single image hdr process again but with only half as much range as before, and with less strength and microcontrast. The other notable changes were using a dark linear gradient from the bottom to about 3/8 way up, and using a light touch of Topaz simplify instead of the heavier dose of the crisp preset in Topaz adjust that was used previously. Thanks again for viewing.