Joy

[Marie Hass]

Today I had the opportunity to photograph a young lady that I know. She has multiple disabilities.

I see her just about every other day, and she comes to my house to visit once a month. I teach her living skills and adaptive/problem solving skills so that one day she will be able to live in the community with less than 24 hour staffing.

When she comes to my house, she loves to play with and walk my dog.

My biggest issue with my pictures today was trying to establish focus as she was running towards me. I was on AI Focus mode, low speed continuous. Out of 15 shots, my mentor and I found that only 1 -2 were marginally sharp. Very frustrating.

Please c&c.

Marie

[Shadowman]

Hi Marie,

There's a rule of thumb that you have to set shutter speed at least 1/250-1/500sec, and even higher depending on pace of subject, to get an in focus shot of subject moving parallel to your position. Shutter speeds can be reduced when subject is moving towards or away from you. If you were within the acceptable range of shutterspeeds, the last thing to look at is your auto focus system; was the camera hunting for a focus point? Did your subject move in and out of the focus indicator bracket? Were you as steady as you could be?

[Shadowman]

A cheat sheet I found.

http://www.digitalcameraworld.com/20...y-cheat-sheet/

[Geoff F]

Possibly AI Servo would have 'locked on' more effectively. AI Focus needs a still subject starting point or a bit of time to recognise then hold on to a moving subject.

[rpcrowe]

Marie,

I think (perhaps) Geoff might be right concerning AI Servo vs AI Focus. I keep one of my user selected modes (the 7D has three) set up with AI Servo and single point focus for shooting fast moving action. The 7D has some pretty sophisticated auto focus capabilities but, a single subject or single group of subjects approaching the camera directly should be the most simple problem in action shooting.

Of course, your shutter speed may have been too slow. In that case, there would either be nothing sharp throughout the frame or everything sharp, except for the moving subjects. But, as mentioned above - subjects approaching the camera directly (or traveling directly away from the camera) can usually be frozen at a slower shutter speed than subjects traveling across the frame or at an angle to the camera. The lens to subject distance is another variable in selecting a shutter speed with a subject closer to the camera needing a faster shutter speed to freeze action than a subject further away...

There might be another culprit, perhaps you were using auto select focus and the focus point that the camera selected was on the subject closest to you - the dog's head. The DOF might not have been great enough to get both the dog and the young lady in focus...

I used my 7D on AI Servo, single point focus (on the dog's head) and high speed burst for this shot. I see no reason to slow down my frame rate unless I know that I will need a longer series of burst shots than my buffer is capable of storing. However, I almost never shoot more than 25 high speed burst images...



I also used Shutter Priority, choosing 1/1,000 second at f/4 which was the largest aperture available on my 70-200mm f/4L IS lens. I specifically wanted a shallow DOF. The shutter speed of 1/1,000 second (plenty fast enough to freeze the subject) at ISO 400 allowed the f/4 aperture. I like to shoot action at ISO 400, when possible, because it usually gives me a relatively fast shutter speed while still retaining excellent image quality on my 7D camera.

I will experiment with using auto ISO for action shooting. That way, I can pick the f/stop - shutter speed combination manually and let the camera decide the IS (within reason of course). Here is a link to an explanation of using Auto ISO with a manual f/stop and shutter speed combination for the Canon 7D. http://www.dpreview.com/articles/020...for-canon-slrs

There might (and I only say "might") be another fly in the ointment. Some lens and camera combinations do not focus as fast and as accurately as other combinations. I have found the 7D and my "L" lenses to be very fast and accurate in auto focus (although I have heard reports that the 7Dii beats the 7D in that area). In comparison, I have a 90mm f/2.8 Tamron Macro which has very-very slooooooow autofocus even with the 7D. That doesn't bother me because I will use manual focusing for most of my macro work but, does prove that there are lens/camera combinations that do not have as efficient auto focus as the 7D plus "L" lenses...

A way to practice shooting moving subjects is to stand by a road (in a safe area of course) and shoot cars as they travel towards you and away from you. Concentrate on the license plate as your primary focus point, using a variety of shutter speeds and a variety of focus points as well as both AI Servo and AI Focus. The great thing about digital is we can make these kinds of tests without costing us any money and we always have the exposure information for each frame.

[Marie Hass]

Dear John, Geoff and Richard,

My EXIF reader shows:

Date Time Original 2015:05:20 17:19:47
Exposure Time 1/200
F Number f / 8
Exposure Program Manual
ISO Speed Ratings 400
Metering Mode CenterWeightedAverage
Flash Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length 135mm
White Balance Auto white balance
Make Canon
Model Canon EOS 7D

Richard, I was using my 70-200 2.8L lens. I am trying to learn more about the focus system of the 7D, so I am glad all of you responded. I thought I had done my homework, but apparently not enough. When I set up focus, I did set up a single point - dead center. Since I wanted this young lady at the bottom of the screen, I thought the focus I had established was correct. John asked if I was steady, and the pictures do not show camera shake. Just lack of focus. In fact, most of the closer shots were disappointly out of focus.

With the lead Geoff gave me, I have been exploring the differences between AI Focus and AI Servo. I will have the opportunity to reshoot pictures similar to this with another subject this weekend.

When I get to my studio, I will post one of the pictures I ended up rejecting.

Thank you all,

Marie

Marie

[PhotoByTrace]

I think one of the best things I did in my transition from taking only stationary objects to also trying to capture motion was to change my settings to make my AF-L (or AF-on) button on the rear of my camera dedicated to focus lock. Back-button focussing took a bit to get used to initially, especially with small hands. But being able to leave my focus settings on continuous focusing has made a world of difference.

Prior to assigning focus to the back button, I'd tried using Auto AF-A (AI Focus on Canon) and found it was very hit and miss and generally a bit annoying to use. So then I went back to single vs continuous and needed to change modes as required, which was also annoying and resulted in missed opportunities.

Now I leave it on Continuous AF-C (AI Servo on Canon) and use the assigned AF-L (or AF-on) button to lock in my focus. Press and release with my thumb if recomposing the frame for a stationary object, keep pressing for motion.

It did take a few shoots to get used to, but now I couldn't live without it. Only problem I have now is if I pass my camera to anyone else to use.

[Manfred M]

Marie - your shutter speed was definitely too slow; I suspect your lack of sharpness is most likely motion blur rather than a lack of focus. For a moving shot, I would never shoot at less than 1/500th and might possibly err on the slightly higher side. This is where one instance where shutter priority would be my choice for exposure mode.

I would be constantly be readjusting my focal length as the subjects(s) got closer to me, using the continuous focus mode. Like Richard, my preference is the single point focus (aimed at the subjects face). I would frame a touch wider than I would for a subject that relatively still, so that I have enough space to crop the image the way I like in post.

Your 135mm f/8 seems to be a reasonable setting, boosting your ISO to get to f/11 will give you a touch more "wriggle room" if you are worried about sharp focus.

[rpcrowe]

Marie, I also like to use Zone AF picking this zone...



Going into your menu, you can set up the 7D to recognize when you turn the camera for a vertical shot. The selected zone automatically will shift to the top group...



That way, most often, I get the face of the person or animal selected right off the bat...

[Marie Hass]

Richard,

Thank you for the examples! I am such a visual person. I would like to send you a PM if I may, because this is something i would like to learn the settings to do? I have scoured my user manual, but I think I am not asking the right questions.

You may not know it, but you have just provided me with a breakthrough. I have been very discouraged with myself and about ready to drop kick this camera.

Marie.

[Marie Hass]

Manfred,

Thank you for the tips. I will have the opportunity to reshoot this weekend. My neice is coming. I will definitely try a faster shutter speed. If shooting shutter priority, I would not have the option of shooting at f11 as you suggest. How about manual with auto ISO instead?

Marie

[Marie Hass]

Trace,

Thank you for responding! I definately am switching to AI Servo. I have used back button focus, but not not well. More reading to do. Thank you for that suggestion. I have had my camera for several years, and have struggled with the focus options.

Marie

[Manfred M]

Manfred,

Thank you for the tips. I will have the opportunity to reshoot this weekend. My neice is coming. I will definitely try a faster shutter speed. If shooting shutter priority, I would not have the option of shooting at f11 as you suggest. How about manual with auto ISO instead?

Marie

Maire - I very rarely shoot on manual; I just don't see why I paid for a talented camera to have to switch to manual (and I spent years shooting on manual, so I certainly know how to do so). In fact the only time I actually do shoot manual is when I use studio flash or panoramas. I shoot shutter priority when I either want to freeze motion or have motion blur.

If you go to shutter priority, the aperture will be chosen for you, based on the ISO and shutter speed you have selected. I generally manually set my ISO and let the aperture fall where it does.

[Mike Buckley]

If shooting shutter priority, I would not have the option of shooting at f11 as you suggest. How about manual with auto ISO instead?

Actually, you would have the option of shooting at any aperture you want. You would have to keep track of the aperture while shooting at shutter priority by controlling your ISO value, whether automatically or manually.

The method you choose really depends entirely on how your brain works and the details that you easily keep track of or not in the viewfinder. You could use manual, Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority combined with Auto ISO or not combined with Auto ISO. All methods will work effectively if you use them effectively. Most of us will find it a lot easier to use one method effectively instead of the other methods either because of what we're used to using or because of how our brain works.

I would use Aperture Priority combined with Auto ISO in this situation. I would set the minimum shutter speed in the Auto ISO configuration to ensure that my shutter is fast enough to stop the action. I would set the aperture based on the depth of field I want to achieve. The ISO value would automatically be determined by the camera. For me, the ISO value is the least important of those three values, so I'm happy to have the camera take total control of that parameter. In that situation, all of my requirements are easily met.

[jcuknz]

While I share Manfred's point about letting the camera help me I remember the 'old fashioned' technique which I adapted to AF in using AF to set focus while pointing at the ground and the waiting for the subject to reach that point. The hazard of this if using AE plus AF that the ground may not give you a good exposure reading but cameras today have the option of locking one or the other .... so perhaps one could get the exposure first, lock it, and then find focus and continuing to hold half trigger wait for the subject to arrive.
I would have thought for a subject approaching the camera at that distance 1/200 is ample and notice a trend on these posts for people to suggest higher as a matter of form. Perhaps they do pick higher
I wonder if this is another form of the pre-occupation with sharpness commented on in another thread which I noticed but have yet to read.

[rpcrowe]

Marie...

You have an advantage (with your 7D camera) over the Canon Rebel family of cameras and perhaps, but I don't know, some other brands of cameras.

The two dial system of the XXD and 7D (series) allows you to easily shift the f/stop or shutter speed, in P, AV or TV mode while you are looking through the viewfinder, without needing to refer to the menu.

This system, with one dial controlling shutter speed and one dial controlling the f/stop is also very handy when adjusting values when using fill flash in the AV mode. Wit, of course, the aperture controlling flash exposure and the shutter speed controlling the ambient light exposure.

[Marie Hass]

Dear Manfred,

I cannot thank you enough for your commentary in this thread. You have provided me with some meaningful insights.

If you go to shutter priority, the aperture will be chosen for you, based on the ISO and shutter speed you have selected. I generally manually set my ISO and let the aperture fall where it does.

Do you also use shutter priority when shooting closer up shots? Maybe an informal out of doors portrait? Or would you use aperture or manual mode here? I question if letting the aperture "fall where it does" may not create DoF issues?

Marie

[Marie Hass]

The method you choose really depends entirely on how your brain works and the details that you easily keep track of or not in the viewfinder. You could use manual, Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority combined with Auto ISO or not combined with Auto ISO. All methods will work effectively if you use them effectively. Most of us will find it a lot easier to use one method effectively instead of the other methods either because of what we're used to using or because of how our brain works.

Dear Mike,

Oh, so very true!

Thank you for this discussion.

Marie

[Marie Hass]

The two dial system of the XXD and 7D (series) allows you to easily shift the f/stop or shutter speed, in P, AV or TV mode while you are looking through the viewfinder, without needing to refer to the menu.

I did not realize this. I have been referring to the menu. I fould out the 2 button system also works in Manual mode...

Marie

[Manfred M]

Dear Manfred,

I cannot thank you enough for your commentary in this thread. You have provided me with some meaningful insights.



Do you also use shutter priority when shooting closer up shots? Maybe an informal out of doors portrait? Or would you use aperture or manual mode here? I question if letting the aperture "fall where it does" may not create DoF issues?

Marie

Marie - I select shutter priority when I either want to ensure that I freeze the motion or when I want motion blur. Shutter priority is all about me wanting to control motion.

When depth of field are the most important shooting parameters (very shallow or very deep), then I shoot aperture priority.

In all cases I will try to shoot at as low an ISO setting as I can (and this can be a very high ISO setting, depending in the light). Low ISO gives your images maximum colour depth and minimum noise.

I juggle all three parameters when I am out shooting; I guess that's called "experience".