Suggestions for PP information?

[IShootPeople]

I've got a round of photos I am slowly going through and editing, and I'm not really thrilled with some of the results. My editing skills are really rusty and I'm thinking I need to take a class or something to try and improve them. I can look at them and say "Something doesn't feel right" but I don't know what it is or how to correct it.

For example, here is one that I edited. Just not happy with the end result...



Anyone have a suggestion for tutorials? I am going through the ones here on the CiC site itself, but want to have as many resources as I can get.

[Shadowman]

Hi Kim,

What software are you using and what type of tutoring do you prefer; textural or video? If you prefer reading I'd suggest using the public library, find a text that you are comfortable with and if it proves useful consider buying. There are lots of youtube tutorials available; just search based on the topic and or software being used. What exactly don't you like about the posted image and are there any particular photographers whose work you like? Do you often view photographer's works and feel you want to capture something similar to that style?

[Stagecoach]

For example, here is one that I edited. Just not happy with the end result... .

Kim, there are thousands of different resources regarding various aspects of PP work from very basic to very complicated and its difficult to guide you in the best direction without knowing more about what you are not happy with.

Taking this shot perhaps it would be useful if you post the before and after versions as it may very well be that with what you started with you have achieved the best possible result.

It would also be useful if you can give some idea of what doesn't feel right, is it sharpness, shadow detail, colour, 'pop' etc..........

[Manfred M]

+1 to what Grahame has written.

My initial view is that the image lacks "punch".

1. Get the black point and white point and gamma set appropriately;

2. Up the contrast a touch;

3. Use a vignette to pull the corners in a touch.


You could also use a third-party filter (something like Nik Color Efex Pro) to add a bit of something to the image.

[pnodrog]

You seem to be wanting to find a technical solution to what appears to be an aesthetic problem. Technically the tonal range, exposure, contrast,colour balance, focus and sharpness all look fine. From an aesthetic point of view the low hanging branches of the tree are a visual barrier to looking at the subject matter. A good photograph controls the viewers eyes. Making them roam and linger.

In this photograph some of the roaming is blocked and there is no obvious point to linger.

[NorthernFocus]

You seem to be wanting to find a technical solution to what appears to be an aesthetic problem. Technically the tonal range, exposure, contrast,colour balance, focus and sharpness all look fine. From an aesthetic point of view the low hanging branches of the tree are a visual barrier to looking at the subject matter. A good photograph controls the viewers eyes. Making them roam and linger.

In this photograph some of the roaming is blocked and there is no obvious point to linger.

+1

[Dave Humphries]

Hi Kim,

Here comes my tuppence worth

Firstly; thanks for starting off the thread with an example picture.

As L.Paul says, there is actually a lot that is technically correct about this, but I do see what you mean.

Looking at this image, there are a couple of techniques I would use to 'improve' it;
The first is Local Contrast Enhancement (LCE).
The second would be a selective colour enhancement in the reds and oranges to enhance the masonry without hopefully adversely affecting the grass and other tones, which are currently quite natural.

The EXIF data shows: Canon EOS REBEL T3i with Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 lens shot with Manual exposure, 1/640 sec, f/6.4, ISO 400 and edited with Photoshop CS3 (Mac).

However, in addition to what L.Paul says about the overhanging trees and composition, here are some other thoughts which you might like to consider changing at the time of capture.

The shot was taken with the camera apparently held at standing eye level and the focal length used has given an angle of view very similar to what we might see if stood there ourselves.

Now consider; could you have shot from a much lower height?
This might have helped with the overhanging foliage, causing less 'blocking'.
It would also make it a little less 'normal' looking.

This appears to have been taken at 11:15 (EXIF data and column shadow length).
I won't suggest, for this shot, shooting in the golden hour, because then I suspect far too much of the subject here would be in shadow from the surrounding forest, but a nice low lighting angle often enhances many a shot.
At least you didn't have the sun directly above you, or an overcast day giving flat lighting and no shadows.
However, the combination of subject's smooth brickwork & mortar, sun angle (front wall in shadow) and distance have not allowed you to enhance any texture with fine output sharpening (which may be another thing to address in your PP workflow regardless).

As hinted by L.Paul, some point of interest; e.g. a human wearing suitably neutral colours might have helped in this shot too.


In more general terms, may I suggest you try some different viewpoints and/or look for interesting details and/or use that wide max. aperture on the nifty fifty to provide subject separation by narrow DoF.
I know you can do that because there is evidence in some of your other Smugmug galleries (especially, but not only, the car shots).

I also get the feeling you may enjoy trying the possibilities of an ultra wide angle lens, if you can get access to one (beg, borrow, but don't steal) - in particular, it might help with subjects such as Sheldon Church, where two of the other techniques I suggest are less feasible.

I also wonder whether you were trying to shoot Sheldon with family 'on tow'; I find that unless I am alone and have plenty of time, I just cannot concentrate enough on my photography to get really decent compositions - except perhaps in a 'target rich environment' like a car show.

Shooting somewhere like Sheldon; it is very difficult to achieve anything more than snapshots, especially with a limited range of access and focal lengths. For subjects like that is where a stabilised drone with DSLR camera and remote POV link would be a godsend to allow access to unusual viewpoints - but of course, is way beyond 99.999% of people for cost, safety and permission reasons.

Anyway, I hope my analysis and other ramblings prove helpful, Dave

[Geoff F]

If you want more information than the CinC Tutorials provide, Kim, I would recommend this site

http://www.ronbigelow.com/articles/articles.htm