Sequence of Operations in PP

[Redbriars]

I routinely edit/develop images (from a Nikon D7200) for display on a family blog, and I wonder about the sequence of operations.

I tend to crop the image first, then adjust the exposure, then sharpen, then re-size.

I wonder if I should crop and re-size first, on the grounds that I would then be tweaking the final pixels? Would the sequence of operations make much difference?

Thanks . . . Alan

[chauncey]

What software do you use...as an example, I crop last in PS in the event that I want to steal
bits and pieces from another part of the image.

[Polar01]

Are you working on RAW files from your D7200 or are they j-pegs? What post processing are you using? These are things that we need to know to better understand your thinking.

Cheers: Allan

[NorthernFocus]

Welcome to CIC, Alan. We each develop a process that works for us. To some degree the software that your using can/should influence your workflow. For example if you are using LR or another program that makes your editing reversible, then cropping first is fine. If it's not reversible then you may want to crop at the end instead.

Generally speaking I tend to do the technical stuff first and the more esthetic stuff farther down the work flow. For example in LR right out of the gate I do lens correction, initial sharpening/NR, any necessary leveling, and white balance. Then I work on overall lighting/color, local adjustments, and any cloning etc. Only after that do I decide on any cropping. If I'm going to export to another program or use a plug-in I do tend to crop before doing so to minimize the file size of any PSD or TIFF that gets generated.

Again, you'll develop whatever works for you. Generally speaking it's a good idea too do irreversible steps towards the end of your workflow.

[Max von MeiselMaus]

There are quite a few useful articles on workflow out there in the ether. The order of some steps is pretty fundamental (so, sharpen after resize, or the effect of your sharpening will be changed). Others are a matter of taste. However, by having a read of some of the workflow guides and their rationale, you will have a basis from which to form your own.

https://luminous-landscape.com/workflow/

https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tu...g-workflow.htm

http://www.dpbestflow.org/links/60

Good luck!

[rpcrowe]

I work from RAW files and use a Master File system in all my post processing.

In a Master File, I do noise reduction if needed first and then initial input sharpening. Then I work with exposure and color/contrast correction (if needed) often working with levels. I do any cloning and whatever other correcyions I need.

I save the image as a Master PSD file with no cropping, sizing or final sharpening.

This way, I have the image ready to process for any use without having to reinvent the wheen and start from square one if I want a vertical crop instead of a landscape.

I have been working this way for years, ever since I post processed my dog images one year and then needed all horizontal images for calendars. Although RAW images are non-destructive, I had to start at square one and do total post processing for the images.

Using the Master File system. I would simply open the PSD Master File and crop how I wanted and then sharpen the image for the final product. However, I still have my Master File that has almost all of my processing (except for the final crop and output sharpening) done.

[Redbriars]

Thanks to all. I use ACDSee Pro to do my PP. I work with jpegs as the software does not yet work with RAW for the D7200 (still at the D7100) so I am saving my RAW files for long winter nights when the software has been updated.

I leave the original jpegs alone and work on a copy.

Because I post images on the family blog at 1200 pixels long side I tend to crop to get the composition I want and then resize to 1200 pixels, and I then think that I am working with the final image and adjust exposure, white balance and sharpening, vignettes, borders, etc. Comments above are making me re-think that. I suspect that I would like to print some of these images (flowers, mostly) and so would go back to the original file and edit for this alternate use. I like Richard's master file concept and will probably adopt that within my own software.

Thanks . . . Alan

[Polar01]

Yes I would rethink it somewhat, like Richard I use a file system with a Master Folder what holds files that I have processed in Photoshop (psd's), files processed in Adobe Camera Raw to my thinking are still raw files so they stay in the original folders. Those files that I plan on printing go into a folder called Master Print Files, this is where they have the final adjustments done to them so I can print them. You may want to have an extra folder titles Master Print j-pegs this folder would only hold those files that you want to print.
Just thinking.

Cheers: Allan

[rpcrowe]

This is a work flow chart on Master Files done by John Watts of Watt's Digital Imaging, San Diego, California. John teaches some wonderful courses on Photoshop and offers the courses at a minimal charge of five U.S. Dollars per session.



I have learned a lot from John and enjoy his sessions which are held monthly in the Photographic Arts Building in our Balboa Park complex.

[Shadowman]

Alan,

What kind of lens are you using and what type of shots are you taking that you do so much cropping? Is it possible to compose in camera with either a zoom lens or your own physical movement. I only ask because the only time (high percentage) I have to do so much cropping is when I am using a prime lens or am restricted in my movements.

[rpcrowe]

I agree with John. My two go-to lenses are both zooms. They allow tight framing without a lot of cropping. Occasionally, I will admit, the framing may be too tight.

[pnodrog]

I am strongly in favour of cropping last in PP. I used to be an advocate for tight in camera cropping but with the high resolution dslr cameras now available I no longer crop too closely in camera unless I have plenty of time to compose and it is sitting on a tripod.

The original uncropped image will allow far greater cloning choice around the perimeter, bigger area to work with if doing perspective or lens corrections and better control with any brush tools. (dodging, burning etc)



P.S. The flow chart in Richard's post is exactly my approach.