Qaaktugvik, Alaska (aka Kaktovik)

[NorthernFocus]

I just returned from six days in the Inupiat Eskimo village of Kaktovik, Alaska. The main purpose of the trip was to photography polar bears. However, as one might expect, it ended up being a much richer experience than just the wildlife. So this post is about the trip. I'll get to the bears later.

Kaktovik is home to roughly 300 people and is located at 70 degrees north on the Beaufort Sea coast. It is surrounded by the much publicized Arctic National Wildlife Refuge(ANWR) and is only accessible by sea or air in summer/fall and by air or snow machine/dog sled in winter/spring. Kaktovik is also the location of a Dew Line radar station designated by the USAF as Barter Island. That is also the name that the FAA uses for the airport.

Due to the remoteness of the village, the people of Kaktovik rely heavily on subsistence harvesting of animals from both land and sea. ANWR was established in large part to protect the spring/summer calving grounds of the largest caribou herd in the world which migrates up from Canada. The herd consists of over 100,000 animals. The Inupiat people retain rights to harvest caribou for subsistence and indeed the heard provides the bulk of their red meat for the year. They also shoot geese, net arctic char in the salt water lagoon, and, most famously, in the fall they hunt bow head whales in the Beaufort Sea. They are permitted three whales per year in accordance with US and international laws/agreements. Wandering the streets leaves no doubt that Kaktovik is a whaling community. The tools of the trade and whale bones are everywhere.

Kaktovik is on a small island surrounded by a shallow saltwater lagoon. Due to the geography this is one of the first places along the coast that the ocean freezes. That combined with the fact that the whale carcasses provide scavenging opportunities, polar bears gather around Kaktovik in significant numbers to await the formation of the ice pack. When the ice comes in they head out to sea in search of seals. But from mid-September to mid-October, weather permitting, there are awesome opportunities to see and photography polar bears.

Enough text, now some photos.

1) The old City hall/police station has been replaced by a modern metal sided building.


2) Old side of Main Street


3) The newer side of Main Street


4) A fixall shop.


5) Future sled dogs.


6) One of the whaling boats. They take this boat 10-15 miles(17-25km) offshore with four people on board. Note the sides built up with plywood.


7) Whale baileen is laying around like so much scrap wood. Some will be used to produce decorative art to sell for extra cash. Baileen used to be known as "whale bone" and in the days before plastic was used for such things as making umbrellas and those puffy ladies dresses of the Victorian era.


8) Whale blubber from a recent kill. Almost every home had a pile of blubber and meat laying out front awaiting processing/storage. With temperatures below freezing there is little concern of spoilage. Bears coming into town is the biggest issue.


9) The "bone pile" where the whale carcasses are dumped just outside town. You can see the fresh carcasses from this season.


10) And finally, the object of my desire. In the past three to five years polar bears have gone from the bane of existence in Kaktovik to an economic boom in photography/eco-tourism. It is a very short season but provides a nice bit of income to the village.

[Donald]

Just wonderful. Nothing else to say. Text and images. Glorious. I feel so privileged to be part of this online community that allows me to enjoy as well as to learn.

[NorthernFocus]

Glad you enjoyed the post, Donald. And I whole heartedly agree that CIC is a great place to share with and learn from others' experiences. A true community. I've got a few bear shots processed and will post some up. Here's one of me and my native guide taken w/iPhone.



And his emergency kit in case the truck breaks down.

[Manfred M]

Dan, thanks for the great images and narrative. It's a part of the world that is still on my "to do" list.

[Chrisclick]

A bit scary for gentle folk like me, Dan. I don't like guns, I don't like ice and snow, I don't like bears, I don't like whales being chopped up, I don't like dangerous little boats, I can handle only one dog at a time, and I can't stand isolation surrounded by desolation.

But, I sure love the photos!

Although a place like that will never be on my 'to do' list, I know some would find it fascinating. You're quite the adventurer, Dan.

Thanks for sharing the shots and the info.

Now where's my kitty gone? Here, kitty....

[rpcrowe]

Absolutely great series. Show these to Grace and she will forgive you for leaving...

I love a series on interesting places where I will never go!

[JBW]

A bit scary for gentle folk like me, Dan. I don't like guns, I don't like ice and snow, I don't like bears, I don't like whales being chopped up, I don't like dangerous little boats, I can handle only one dog at a time, and I can't stand isolation surrounded by desolation.

But, I sure love the photos!

Although a place like that will never be on my 'to do' list, I know some would find it fascinating. You're quite the adventurer, Dan.

Thanks for sharing the shots and the info.

Now where's my kitty gone? Here, kitty....

But it isn't isolation surrounded by desolation. It is a village surrounded by the fullness of our Mother Earth.

[NorthernFocus]

Glad you all enjoyed the post. I'll get around to some bear photos as soon as I can.

...I can't stand isolation surrounded by desolation....

I've often described the North Slope as a desolate place. My opinion has changed. I spent five days on a small boat with the young native lad in the photo. There were many hours when the bears weren't moving for us to talk about life. Once he knew how interested I was and that I had been a hunter/trapper in my youth, he described in great detail the various methods of hunting caribou, whales, geese, etc. and the various methods of utilizing the flesh and skins. His reverence for nature really came through in he described the flowers on the tundra and told hunting stories in the quiet, unassuming manner of the Inupiat.

I truly came away with much more than bear photos.

[IzzieK]

Awwww....such good shots and narrative...I love dogs, I don't like snow and ice so much and bitter cold weather conditions, I love to go on for hunts in nature but not to kill them, etc...I love a gun around me for protection and peace of mind, and I love someone to talk to in a desolated place. Also to be quiet with on a shoot.​I can hardly wait for the next chapter of your adventure...Did you take Paige with you? Or did she opt out to take care of Grace?

[John 2]

........................I love a series on interesting places where I will never go!

...and I envy you the opportunity. Great series. I hope there is more to come.

[Shadowman]

Not really ready for scenes like these but #5 and 10 are really cool.

[Dave A]

Really enjoyed the read and the images. Thank you for sharing with us.
My job has allowed me to travel to the far north, Fort Severn, and to get a few poor quality snapshots of the Polar Bears from the back of a Twin Otter.

Dave

[Rita]

A wonderful look into the life of another culture. Very informative and enjoyable set.

[NorthernFocus]

Glad you folks found the post interesting.

...Did you take Paige with you? Or did she opt out to take care of Grace?

Paige stayed home with the little heathen. While she enjoys nature, she prefers outdoor activities that are a bit more energetic than photography. She only comes along on photo expeditions that allow her to go hiking etc. while I'm shooting.

[Rebel]

Very nice series of photos Dan, this place looks like a hard place to live.

[Brownbear]

+1 to Donald's comment except I have to add that the Sled Dog image especially special... (and yes the bear image, too)

[Saorsa]

Qaaktugvik? Shouldn't there be some duck pictures???

Nice shots.

[Saorsa]

Qaaktugvik? Shouldn't there be some duck pictures???

Nice shots otherwise.

[NorthernFocus]

Qaaktugvik? Shouldn't there be some duck pictures???

Nice shots otherwise.

That's the Inupiat spelling. Which is kind of odd in and of itself since Inupiat had no written language until encountering western man. So it is basically a made up language of pseudo phoenetic spelled words. It seems they threw in extra letters/syllables to make it obvious that it's not English. Plus there is some Russian influence thrown in. Since they can see it from their homes

[purplehaze]

Beautiful bear shot, Dan, and great travelogue. Reminded me of the time I have spent on the shores of Hudson's Bay, also known for sled dogs, polar bears, whales, and fascinating people. It is good to see a healthy looking polar bear, as the population in our area (northern Manitoba) is suffering.