To Monopod or Not?

[TheBigE]

All,

I am looking for some feedback on Monopods. I typically travel with my Manfrotto M294 Aluminum Ball Head Tripod, I use it off and on around home, but it primarily comes out when I travel for night shots. Overall I do not find it to be too cumbersome and easy to use for my needs in most cases...until now.

We are now looking at traveling to Orlando in January and spending a much needed weeks vacation in Walt Disney World. Not to worry, we are WDW experts and know the ins and outs of the parks, and navigating through everything. This will be the first time I go with some serious intentions on photography.

I have reviewed the rules for the Parks and a tripod or monopod can be brought into the parks as long as it fits in your backpack. Certainly my current Manfrotto tripod will not fit in my backpack. So looking at some options, I am not too interested in investing in a travel tripod...for me the cost and significant limited use does not warrant the purchase. This brings me to Monopods.

I am planning on renting a 17-55mm f/2.8 lens for the trip, so some night shots can be done hopefully hand holding. However, I am also thinking that maybe adding a Monopod would be a good option, keeping the weight down (most like a CF Monopod) and also help if I want to go out one night and wander about...even going into the parks.

I guess I see a niche for a monopod over a tripod here, given crowds and other people. The compact nature and added benefit of a Monopod I think would be a good addition. Just wondering other peoples experience and thoughts about the Monopod.

Thanks
Erik

[Geoff F]

At one time I did occasionally use a monopod but for those uses I now have a Velbon Luxi L tripod instead.

Five segments so it folds up to 15 ins length which just fits inside my backpack.

Slightly heavier than most monopods but with the advantages of a tripod. Obviously not as sturdy as my Manfrotto but often more convenient to carry around. And when used with the legs together it works exactly as a monopod.

Several other manufacturers produce similar tripods.

[Shadowman]

I've used a monopod on many occasions, still needs to be some steadying applied as there is the slight tendency to swivel. As you are using a light lens have you considered a Gorillapod? Still slightly unstable but could be beneficial if shooting at odd angles.

[rpcrowe]

Erik

I have used the 17-55mm f/2.8 IS lens hand-held for night shots. I had no tripod available.

EOS 30D, 17-55mm f/2.8 IS, 44mm, ISO 1,600, 1/45 second @ f/2.8

However, if you have a monopod, carry two lengths of double sided 25mm wide Velcro tape. You can secure the monopod to a stationary object like a railing or fence to give you a solid camera rest. Of course, having some sort of a tilt head would help in that case...

[mikey98e]

I always carry a monopod when we're hiking in the mountains. I tried packing a tripod but it was too much for this old guy to carry. The monopod also doubles as a walking stick. I found the monopod really helps when I want a long exposure shot of a waterfall. With practice I can steady the camera so I don't get any blur.
-mike

[William W]

. . . I am looking for some feedback on Monopods . . . traveling to Orlando in January . . . Walt Disney World. . . I go with some serious intentions on photography . . . planning on renting a 17-55mm f/2.8 lens for the trip, so some night shots can be done hopefully hand holding. . . thinking that maybe adding a Monopod would be a good option, keeping the weight down (most like a CF Monopod) and also help if I want to go out one night and wander about...even going into the parks.

I think that a Carbon Fibre Monopod would be generally a useful purchase if you don’t have a Monopod at the moment and it would be useful to you in some of the shooting situations on the holiday that you have described.

You should consider whether you want an Head for the Monopod, I think probably not for the uses that you describe, but it would be worthwhile considering either a ball head or a purpose tilt head (specifically for Monopods). I have both: addressing only the purposes of your trip, I think that a tilt head would better if you choose to take an head with you - e.g. Manfrotto 234 Monopod Tilt Head (Note: NOT a Manfrotto 234RC)

Most of the time I just whack the camera (or lens mount) directly onto the screw of the Monopod - that's really secure, and it is an old habit which is very difficult to break and common to Sports Shooters.

Techniques that I think would be helpful:

Monopod used as a String Tripod / Bipod: for this technique you secure two straps or one strap (non-elastic) underneath the top of the Monopod. This strap or straps form the ‘leg(s) of the improvised Bipod or Tripod. A picture is worth a thousand words – I just whipped a rough one up for you here (no critique required about the necessity of Flash Fill and the compositional aspects of the drain pipe exiting my head, thanks!:



You can set the straps with a loop at the bottom to suit your height, rather than standing on them, a loop is very secure: note how the Monopod is then pushed away. Having your feet about 1 metre apart, makes for a very stable triangle and I have accomplished quite long exposure times with this technique: a remote release is best and I also encourage using Mirror Up Technique. If you don’t have a remote release, the delay timer works well for static scenes. So this might be useful for the night scenes that you mention.

A variation on that theme is the Monopod used as a String Bipod: this just uses one strap and the method is the same with that strap – secure one end under the camera and the other end under your foot. The difference is the Monopod used as a String Bipod allows the eye to be at the Viewfinder. I usually use my RIGHT eye at the Viewfinder, so, the strap is under my LEFT foot and that foot is BEHIND and outward. My RIGHT foot is at about 45° to the axis of the lens and directly underneath the camera. The Monopod’s foot sits inside the arch of my foot, my foot securing it as the Monopod is tilted slightly forward. A slight pressure forward on the Monopod and camera is maintained with the LEFT hand holding the Monopod and the RIGHT hand is free to control the camera. There is limited PANNING available using this technique and the panning can be very smooth. I mention the Bipod because it (panning) might be useful for getting shots of fast rides at night-time.

Another use of a Monopod is to get above the crowds, so if you buy one don’t forget that it can be used to grab photos using “Hail Mary” or “Doorstop” Technique. If you use a Monopod this way then it is usually not necessary (or wise) to extend it beyond it minimum length.

***

On another topic I am not sure that a 17 to 55/2.8 is going to be that much of an advantage to you if the ONLY reason for renting it is for night time shots. I assume that one of the lenses you note in your Bio-page is the Nikon AF-S DX 18-140 mm F/3.5~5.6 G ED VR. My next assumption is that most Night-time SCENIC shots that you would be considering would be at the wider end of FL, so comparing what you have to what you want to rent, you’ve got 18mm to about 24mm @ F/3.5; then about 24mm about 35mm @ F/4; and probably F/4.5 at 55mm; and with VR. Assuming most of the night-time SCENIC shots would be between 18mm and 24mm you are not gaining very much Lens Speed from F/3.5 to F/2.8. And the worth of one stop is arguable of you want to use around 35mm – BUT in which case you have a very fast 35mm Prime. However you might argue that you want to use the F/2.8 between 35mm and 55mm – which on the face of it seems a logical call, but the counter to that is you have a 35 F/1.8 and a crop in post for 35mm to the FoV of 55mm is not that much to lose – AND – the F/1.8 is a stop and a bit more lens speed.

However, for a one working zoom lens and “I don’t want to be fiddling around changing lenses” and “I want fast from 17 to 55” then I concur that the 17 to 55/2.8 is the Ant’s Pants and would be worthwhile renting.

***

Having stated all that, I choose to travel on holiday withOUT a monopod and Tripod. My travel kit is very, very simple. I take one DSLR (5D Series) one working standard zoom (usually 24 to 105/4 IS) and a very fast Prime (usually 35/1.4) and a second camera, these days it is a Fuji x100s, previously I took a Canon PowerShot.

So you might understand why, with your kit described on your Bio-page I would just take the 18 to 140 and the fast 35 Prime (I don't know and I am not considering the IQ of the 18 to 140)

For any night-time (available light) Portrait Photography or where a fast shutter speed is required, I will use the Fast Prime – e g:


“Ice Cream” - Paris

35/1.4 @ F/2.2 Hand Held


I haven’t had any difficulty in finding a suitable brace or support to execute night scenes photography for example:

“Hotel Berlin” – Berlin

24 to 105/4 @ F/4, Camera on window ledge and bedded into folded coat with downward pressure by hand, used mirror up technique about 4 seconds exposure – I tried one at around 8 seconds and at F/5.6 and I wasn’t happy with it.

***

Afterthought - be aware a Monopod might not be allowed as "carry-on" at the airports that you visit- it isn't leaving SYD Airport, I know that.

WW

All Images © AJ Group Pty Ltd Aust 1996~2015, WMW 1965~1996

[Saorsa]

I use an Oben CTM-2500 quite a lot. You will want to add a lightweight head. I also carry quite a bit if 1/8 nylon line which I always referred to as crab line but is now more fashionably known as paracord. The Oben sling has a belt clip to make carrying it easy. It's also an easy place to attach the string for a more stable position.

[Saorsa]

I use an Oben CTM-2500 quite a lot. You will want to add a lightweight head. I also carry quite a bit if 1/8 nylon line which I always referred to as crab line but is now more fashionably known as paracord. The Oben sling has a belt clip to make carrying it easy. It's also an easy place to attach the string for a more stable position.

[DanK]

I use the exact same Oben CF monopod that Brian uses. I have used it with two tilt heads: Benro (cheap, light, not arca) and Kirk (expensive, heavier, arca). I use it a lot, but not as a substitute for a tripod. I use it for macro work, and I use it sometimes for more stability when using long lenses. I never use it for night photography because I wouldn't be able to hold the camera fully still.

I travel a good bit with an Oben CF tripod, with a Markins head. The tripod is very light, and the head is quite light for a head of that quality. This fits on the back of my photo day pack, but it wouldn't fit inside. However, you can get them in varying sizes and numbers of sections.

[rpcrowe]

Carrying a monopod as cabin baggage can be a chancy situation. Some airlines consider a monopod to be a "weapon-like instrument" and so require that the pod be packed in the checked on baggage. So, get a monopod that folds up short enough to sit in your suitcase (if you plan to travel by air).

[TheBigE]

.....However, if you have a monopod, carry two lengths of double sided 25mm wide Velcro tape. You can secure the monopod to a stationary object like a railing or fence to give you a solid camera rest. Of course, having some sort of a tilt head would help in that case...

Thanks Richard go idea, and does not add much weight overall. I will also order a ball head for the monopod, it just seems to make sense and prevents me from having to take off and put back on the quick release Manfrotto Plate.

Great photo and gives me hope that I will be impressed by the 17-55 f/2.8 lens rental.

I always carry a monopod when we're hiking in the mountains. I tried packing a tripod but it was too much for this old guy to carry. The monopod also doubles as a walking stick. I found the monopod really helps when I want a long exposure shot of a waterfall. With practice I can steady the camera so I don't get any blur.
-mike

Great feedback Mike, it sounds like much the same reason as why I why I am was looking at the Monopod. While not a replacement for a tripod, it strikes a balance between ease of use, weight and stability.

I think that a Carbon Fibre Monopod would be generally a useful purchase if you don’t have a Monopod at the moment and it would be useful to you in some of the shooting situations on the holiday that you have described.

You should consider whether you want an Head for the Monopod, I think probably not for the uses that you describe, but it would be worthwhile considering either a ball head or a purpose tilt head (specifically for Monopods). I have both: addressing only the purposes of your trip, I think that a tilt head would better if you choose to take an head with you - e.g. Manfrotto 234 Monopod Tilt Head (Note: NOT a Manfrotto 234RC)

As always William great advice ***throws a Mars bar towards William **** Thanks! I agree that that the Tilt head does not make much sense...just gives one two options vertical or horizontal. I have added a ball head onto the tripod to allow for better control and orientation.

Most of the time I just whack the camera (or lens mount) directly onto the screw of the Monopod - that's really secure, and it is an old habit which is very difficult to break and common to Sports Shooters.

I am not fully convinced how it will be used and I do like the idea of just putting it on the screw on the Monopod, simple easy and effective. I run with Quick Release plate on my Camera and use the fastener for this plate to attach to my Black Rapid strap. Simple to just goto the direct mount...but here is the catch (and you will see this again below) even though the extra step of taking of the plate seems insignificant, I have humbly learned in my travels that the little things add up and prevent me from using the equipment. If I can just pop out the monopod and then attach the camera with the plate...Bam I am done. My only concern is the extra high that the ball head gives to the device. Most places will allow monopod if it fits in your backpack. As you will see below, I will be opening up some more room in my backpack and hope that the Monopod with Ball head will fit.

Techniques that I think would be helpful:......

Again top notch explanation along with support photos. Very good information here to consider and how best to USE the equipment.

On another topic I am not sure that a 17 to 55/2.8 is going to be that much of an advantage to you if the ONLY reason for renting it is for night time shots. I assume that one of the lenses you note in your Bio-page is the Nikon AF-S DX 18-140 mm F/3.5~5.6 G ED VR. My next assumption is that most Night-time SCENIC shots that you would be considering would be at the wider end of FL, so comparing what you have to what you want to rent, you’ve got 18mm to about 24mm @ F/3.5; then about 24mm about 35mm @ F/4; and probably F/4.5 at 55mm; and with VR. Assuming most of the night-time SCENIC shots would be between 18mm and 24mm you are not gaining very much Lens Speed from F/3.5 to F/2.8. And the worth of one stop is arguable of you want to use around 35mm – BUT in which case you have a very fast 35mm Prime. However you might argue that you want to use the F/2.8 between 35mm and 55mm – which on the face of it seems a logical call, but the counter to that is you have a 35 F/1.8 and a crop in post for 35mm to the FoV of 55mm is not that much to lose – AND – the F/1.8 is a stop and a bit more lens speed.

However, for a one working zoom lens and “I don’t want to be fiddling around changing lenses” and “I want fast from 17 to 55” then I concur that the 17 to 55/2.8 is the Ant’s Pants and would be worthwhile renting.

***

Having stated all that, I choose to travel on holiday withOUT a monopod and Tripod. My travel kit is very, very simple. I take one DSLR (5D Series) one working standard zoom (usually 24 to 105/4 IS) and a very fast Prime (usually 35/1.4) and a second camera, these days it is a Fuji x100s, previously I took a Canon PowerShot.

So you might understand why, with your kit described on your Bio-page I would just take the 18 to 140 and the fast 35 Prime (I don't know and I am not considering the IQ of the 18 to 140)

For any night-time (available light) Portrait Photography or where a fast shutter speed is required,....

To be honest the choice of the 17-55 f/2.8 for me is simplicity and to have one lens that allows me more flexibility. I have just finished reviewing all the photos from my summer travels in the Baltic Sea. During this time, my primary lens was the 18-140mm, which for me has been a great lens offering much flexibility for shooting. I carried both my UWA and 35mm Fast Prime along with me...frankly, I just never switch over to either lens. We will get to that point in a minute. However, first I ran some numbers on my focal lengths I shot with my 18-140mm lens 83% were between 18-55 mm - to be fair I included the range up to 60mm figuring that it was just a slight twist of the zoom ring - and more shockingly nearly 90% of the photos that I decided were keepers were in that same range.

I found that I eliminated many photos due to high noise as well when being inside. In truly dark areas, the 35mm fast prime is what is needed...but sometimes the effort to stop change lens, and get back up and running was not always possible given tour groups and family commitments. Also, just due to some general laziness...do I really want to switch lens NOW...it happens. For me, it really pointed out the simple and small is better.

I agree with you assessment, that I do not game much overall directly on paper by running with 17-55, what I gain is flexibility and perhaps a single lens that is suitable generally across the range of my photography. Given me the chance to keep the ISO down without switching Lens when going inside to out, and still keeping my general focal lengths in the range that I sue. My goal would be to travel with the 17-55 and the 35mm for those areas where darkness and motion are a concern.

Given the cost of the 17-55 f/2.8 Lens, i want to give it a go rental wise first and really see if it fits the bill.....it is quite possible that I may return and continue with the kit that I have now....they have produced some good results that I am proud of so far. Just like camera upgrade I did after the trip, it was not as much for quality but rather simplicity and usability.

Afterthought - be aware a Monopod might not be allowed as "carry-on" at the airports that you visit- it isn't leaving SYD Airport, I know that.

WW

All Images © AJ Group Pty Ltd Aust 1996~2015, WMW 1965~1996

Yes, this is the case and will be in my checked luggage when traveling...but taking up significantly less room and weight tan my current Aluminum Tripod.

Thanks everyone for the input - I have placed an order for the Manfrotto CF tripod with Mini Ball Head with quick release. I am looking forward to learning how to use the new equipment.

[inkista]

This is just me, but a monopod is like having IS-in-a-stick. For some types of shooting, it's great. But I tend not to go below 1s with one. I tend to need something more stable for night shooting, and I'd actually recommend a small light tripod if you're planning on doing seconds-long exposures. I have a cheap tippy little Velbon (looks like the CX-888 is the current equivalent) that I can use up to 30s with non-tele lenses, which is more suited for this. When I'm at Disneyland, I just park it in a locker, and then go and grab it when the sun goes down.

I've also moved from my heavy Manfrotto monopod to a much lighter (cheapish) carbon fiber Sirui P-326, which is incredibly compact. But this move was partly because I also use my monopod to do off-camera lighting (strobe-on-a-stick) and the weight makes a big difference when you're shooting with one hand and using your other to boom your light over something. I did use it at Comic-Con to add some stability when shooting with my 45-200mm telezoom (90-400 equiv) in dark panels, and it worked ok, but I was clearly pushing the limits of what's possible.

[rpcrowe]

Here is a shot that I did at 1/20 second using 118 mm on my Canon SX50 HS camera with IS on and resting on a monopod.



I don't have the focal length equivalency of my SX50 HS at my finger tips but, the 35mm focal length equivalent of 118 mm on a small format camera like the SX50 HS is very long.

[rtbaum]

"As always William great advice ***throws a Mars bar towards William **** Thanks! I agree that that the Tilt head does not make much sense...just gives one two options vertical or horizontal. I have added a ball head onto the tripod to allow for better control and orientation."

I may be incorrect...But I think that you may have misunderstood William.

As a frequent user of Monopods, I find the tilt head to be a very practical solution. When I deploy a monopod, it is angled forward enough that I can lean into it with a fair bit of force; essentially creating a tripod with my legs. The swivel head will be adjusted to bring the lens and camera body in alignment with the subject and locked down for stability. Panning and leveling is accomplished by rotation along the axis of the monopod. I tried a ballhead and frankly found it to be a PITA.

[rpcrowe]

I am with Randy on a ball-head vs. a dedicated monopod tilt-head.

I first used a Kirk MPA-1 monopod tilt-head which was actually a Manfrotto tilt-head with an Arca Compatible Quick Release. It worked quite well but, was on the edge when I carried my camera with a heavy lens.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...t_Monopod.html

However, I wasn't worried enough about its capability to replace it until... Until I left it on a bus in Croatia. I really missed the monopod for several planned venues in Istanbul.

When I returned to the U.S.A., the MPA-1 was no longer available. I could have purchased the Manfrotto tilt-head and mounted an Arca Compatible Q.R. but, decided to upgrade the tilt-head. I now have an MPA-2 Tilt-Head which is really a rugged piece of gear but, is also expensive.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...opod_Head.html

There are now many choices in a monopod tilt-head.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw...d&_sacat=30090

[William W]

"As always William great advice ***throws a Mars bar towards William **** Thanks! I agree that that the Tilt head does not make much sense...just gives one two options vertical or horizontal. I have added a ball head onto the tripod to allow for better control and orientation."

I may be incorrect...But I think that you may have misunderstood William.

As a frequent user of Monopods, I find the tilt head to be a very practical solution. When I deploy a monopod, it is angled forward enough that I can lean into it with a fair bit of force; essentially creating a tripod with my legs. The swivel head will be adjusted to bring the lens and camera body in alignment with the subject and locked down for stability. Panning and leveling is accomplished by rotation along the axis of the monopod. I tried a ballhead and frankly found it to be a PITA.

You got to this before me, thank you.

You are correct. There has been a misunderstanding. I prefer and almost always use a specialty TILT HEAD for my Monopod - NOT a BALL head.

Further I specifically do NOT, never ever, not ever, at no time ever, use a QRP Mounting (Quick Release Plate) for any Camera or Lens which is mounted on my Monopod.

However, most of the time I mount the Lens or Camera directly to the Monopod. As I mentioned, this is an habit which is difficult for me to break, because it just about ensures that the camera + monopod are inseparable when screwed on in a gorilla proof manner. The habit comes from using big Lenses mounted on Monopods, mainly shooting sports - as I mentioned that's fairly standard for most Sport's Shooters to attach, without any Head:






WW

Images © WMW 1974~1996 / AJ Group Pty Ltd (AUS) 1997~2015

[rpcrowe]

The time that a tilt-head comes in handy for my use is when I am shooting with my camera pointed either up or down. I like to have my monopod pretty straight under the camera. This would prevent me from shooting either up or down - especially shooting down over a barrier (like at a zoo).

[DanK]

Further I specifically do NOT, never ever, not ever, at no time ever, use a QRP Mounting (Quick Release Plate) for any Camera or Lens which is mounted on my Monopod.

I do, but only with a solid arca-swiss compatible clamp so that I know it is securely screwed down. I use the MPA-2 that Richard also has, and while it is heavy and expensive, it is solid as a rock. One of the reasons I like it is that it takes no time to get precisely the axis of rotation I want. The Kirk has two settings, 90 degrees apart. I generally leave it set to rotate up and down (as one faces the camera). this is extremely helpful in macro work, and it is quite handy at other times as well.

Many people carry their cameras attached to a tripod or monopod slung over their shoulder. This always leaves me very nervous, even though I have good clamps, so when I have reason to do that, I keep the camera strap around my neck as a safety (although I have never needed it).

[TheBigE]

Yeah, guess I would say that I misread William Post. I guess I had it in mind that I did not really like the normal horizontal plate where it is either upright or vertical. I will give the ball head a go for a bit and see how it goes and then maybe try one of the other orientation plates.

As far as QRP, I am sure that is a much debated and discussed topic. Certainly there are both sides to the story and how people feel. At this moment, give the weight of my equipment and confidence in the QRP I have been happy. I can see as things start to increase in weight the risk also increases. Time will tell on how I decide to proceed.

[William W]

. . . Many people carry their cameras attached to a tripod or monopod slung over their shoulder. . .

Me included - for a monopod that is but only when NOT using an Head. I do NOT carry a Tripod with Camera attached over my shoulder because for a Tripod I do use QRP.

When using a Monopod, I don't have the camera strap around my neck, but I do keep the Monopod Strap around my wrist.

I think Erik will be very safe if he has the security of the Camera Strap around his neck, when he is using his Camera on a Monopod, with a QRP.

WW