ND filters

[Dave A]

So I think it is time I get one or more ND filters. I don't want junk but I don't think I need top end pro filters either. I'm looking for some recommendations on decent brands and if there is a single ND filter that will get me started.....ie number of stops. Also are the variable ND filters a good choice?

Thanks,
Dave

[rpcrowe]

Dave, What will you be using the filter or filters for? How often do you expect to use these filters and what kind of quality do you demand from your images.

Answers to all of the above questions are quite relevant in deciding which filter to purchase.

I tend to use either B+W or Hoya polarizing filters but, my single ND filter is a coated Hoya. I use it very seldom so it is not a top-line Hoya.

Since I am not at all crazy about totally smoothing running water and waterfalls, the ND filter I have and use is a 0.6 which gives two stops.

There are a new crop of variable density ND filters from China marketed under several brands names on eBay. However, I would be very hesitant to buy a ten dollar (USD) filter to place in front of a lens that costs close to a thousand USD. But, it seems to me that purchasing a filter which costs more than the lens you are using is not good economics either.

[NorthernFocus]

If you have multiple lenses with different size filter rings you may want to consider going with a Cokin system. You can get one set of filters and different size adapters for all your lenses. The filters are decent quality and inexpensive enough that you can get a CPL and a couple of different density NDs for nominal cost. Plus you can stack them if needed/desired.

[rpcrowe]

The square Cokin type filters are especially good for GND filters because you can adjust where the cut-off point is and don't have to keep your horizon straight down the center of the image.

[Dave A]

Dave, What will you be using the filter or filters for? How often do you expect to use these filters and what kind of quality do you demand from your images.

Answers to all of the above questions are quite relevant in deciding which filter to purchase.

I tend to use either B+W or Hoya polarizing filters but, my single ND filter is a coated Hoya. I use it very seldom so it is not a top-line Hoya.

Since I am not at all crazy about totally smoothing running water and waterfalls, the ND filter I have and use is a 0.6 which gives two stops.

There are a new crop of variable density ND filters from China marketed under several brands names on eBay. However, I would be very hesitant to buy a ten dollar (USD) filter to place in front of a lens that costs close to a thousand USD. But, it seems to me that purchasing a filter which costs more than the lens you are using is not good economics either.

Thanks Richard, I should of given a little more information. I don't expect to use a ND filter often but would like to be able to smooth out moving water or experiment with other applications such as to create a sense of movement.
The variable ND filter I was looking at was about $125.00 but I'm not sure if the variable type will reduce image quality. I want to keep as much sharpness, contrast, and color as possible. I see ND filters on the Henry's Photography web site selling for anywhere between $35 to $250 for a single filter.

Dave

[Dave A]

If you have multiple lenses with different size filter rings you may want to consider going with a Cokin system. You can get one set of filters and different size adapters for all your lenses. The filters are decent quality and inexpensive enough that you can get a CPL and a couple of different density NDs for nominal cost. Plus you can stack them if needed/desired.

More good information while I was typing out my reply. I will also research the Cokin system.

Dave

[Donald]

The biggest issue with the cheaper filters is colour cast. Once you start going up the price range you get a truly neutral density. It's a trade-off and should be informed by what sort of budget is realistic for you.

[Manfred M]

Dave - Richard's question on what you are planning to do with the ND filters is quite relevant. It's tough to give advice unless we have a bit more information as to what you are planning to shoot with them. One of the primary reasons I shoot with them is to allow me to shoot shallower DoF (wide open aperture) in bright conditions. I will sometimes use a ND filter (usually 1 or 2 stop) in outdoor flash photography. This allows me to darken the background and properly light the subjects. I also do use it to smooth running water.

I use standard grads only (I own 1, 2, 3, 5 and 10 stop filters; the latter two are screw in type and the 1, 2 , 3 stop are rectangular and require a filter holder). I had the opportunity to shoot a relatively low cost (borrowed) variable ND filter and haven't touched one since. The results were terrible with inconsistent effect and a terrible (reddish) colour cast.

If you are planning to shoot for the silky water effect and are looking at the 5 - 10 stop range, do not go for the cheap filters. Even the high end ones are not completely neutral, but are close. The cheap ones are often made using welder's glass and have horrible colour casts that cannot be corrected.

[Mike Buckley]

The cheap ones are often made using welder's glass

Perfect for shooting welders while they are welding

[Steaphany]

One aspect you need to consider with ND filters is some manufacturers design the doating for the visible spectrum. Digital cameras intrinsically have a great sensitivity to the Infrared spectrum and lower quality ND filters can act as an infrared passing filter polluting the image with a red cast from the now dominated IR

[DanK]

I think a good starting point would be a 2- or 3-stop filter. I have 2, 3, and 10, but 10 is very extreme, and you don't need anything close to that in most settings to get blur in moving water.

I agree that one should avoid cheap ones. Color cast becomes an increasing problem as the density increases. I currently have both Hoya and Marumi. In the case of the 10 stop, I purchased Hoya in preference to the more expensive B+H because the reviews I read suggested that the Hoya has less of a color cast.

[Manfred M]

In the case of the 10 stop, I purchased Hoya in preference to the more expensive B+H because the reviews I read suggested that the Hoya has less of a color cast.

I had read that too, but as is usual, these articles tend to not present any evidence to back up their commentary.

I tested mine (B+W; 10-stop) by shooting a neutral target and then looking for any sign of a colour cast. I could not find any sign of a colour cast. Anywhere I tested I got identical R, G and B values.

[Steaphany]

This video demonstrated Infrared pollution in the context of video, but still applies to still photography.

and he recommends a easy fix, include an Infrared Cut filter, no color shifts

[dje]

This video demonstrated Infrared pollution in the context of video, but still applies to still photography.


and he recommends a easy fix, include an Infrared Cut filter, no color shifts

Interesting video Steaphany, thanks for posting.

Dave

[dje]

Perfect for shooting welders while they are welding

One of your better wisecracks Mike Co-incidentally we have post 25 in this thread that has just appeared !

[Steaphany]

That is an incredible exposure in Post 25, the IR and UV intensities plus the dynamic range of the scene came together nicely. A discussion of that one image should make a great tutorial.