Starting Macrophotography with what I have in my kit

[adityapjoshi]

Hello All,

Need a bit of advice here. I would like to start my macrophotography but I am on a tight budget at the moment and can't really go for the Macro lens. I have a Nikon D7100 with these lenses in my kit:

• Tamron AF 70 - 300 mm F/4-5.6 Di (Digitally Integrated) LD(Low Dispersion) Macro for Nikon Digital SLR Lens
• Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 35 mm f/1.8G Lens

I am thinking of buying the Kenko extension tubes and mounting my 35mm on it to begin with. I would really appreciate if anybody can advise me on if i can do that. Also plz advise on other options and I will try them.

Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Aditya Joshi

[Shadowman]

You can do closeup photography with what you have. What subjects do you plan to photograph?

http://www.slrphotographyguide.com/b...ifference.html

[Stagecoach]

Hello All,

Need a bit of advice here. I would like to start my macrophotography but I am on a tight budget at the moment and can't really go for the Macro lens. I have a Nikon D7100 with these lenses in my kit:

• Tamron AF 70 - 300 mm F/4-5.6 Di (Digitally Integrated) LD(Low Dispersion) Macro for Nikon Digital SLR Lens
• Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 35 mm f/1.8G Lens

I am thinking of buying the Kenko extension tubes and mounting my 35mm on it to begin with. I would really appreciate if anybody can advise me on if i can do that. Also plz advise on other options and I will try them.

Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Aditya Joshi

Hi Aditya, and welcome to CiC.

A set of Kenko tubes (with contacts) will work fine with your 35 mm and give you a greater max magnification than 1:1 (true macro) if required.

What I would ask is have you fully explored the capability of the Tamron 'macro' setting, which gives a 1:2 magnification?

I ask because I have this lens and was impressed with its results and for someone starting in this field may be a good tool to highlight all the other areas to be overcome with macro/closeup, eg lighting, DoF, moving subjects e.t.c

[Dave Humphries]

Welcome to the CiC forums Aditya,

I echo John's question about what it is you want to photograph?

As Grahame says, that Tamron lens (which I don't have), should be good to get you started, although you'll be working at quite a distance and have a narrow angle of view which will make shooting handheld trickier.
Do you have a tripod?


I have a set of tubes without contacts, they are a blooming nuisance to use with modern lenses, especially the ones without an aperture ring. I ended up needing an old (film era) manual macro lens to use with them - and that's still a minor nuisance because your EXIF data will be devoid of useful detail like lens focal length and aperture used.


If/when your budget allows, I'd recommend spending the extra on a set of tubes with contacts, but be careful if buying on-line, especially second-hand, in case you inadvertently buy the cheaper ones without contacts, some descriptions are misleading.

In the end, I did buy a macro lens, but which one is best (in terms of focal length) very much depends upon what you want to photograph. However, since you already have the Tamron (half) 'Macro' zoom; a set of 'electronic' tubes to use on that might be a good way to go if you want to shoot insects.

Using the tubes on the 35mm will also work of course, but the working distance (lens to subject) will be very small, not good for insects, but OK for parts of flowers or other inanimate objects, although getting enough light on to the front of the subject may also be an issue (shadow of lens).

Cheers, Dave

[DanK]

You've received good advice. However, I would start with the question that John and Dave asked: what do you want to photograph? This will determine how much magnification you need, what working distances are practical, what kinds of lighting you need, etc.

[rpcrowe]

I agree with Dan, if we knew what you need/want to photograph, we could possibly give you more help.

I checked out your lens and learned that it can capture an image at a 1:2 magnification. That means the image on your sensor will be half the size of the subject. Your APSC sensor is 23.6mm x 15.7mm so you could fill the frame with a subject 47.2mm x 31.4mm.

Often when people talk about wanting/needing to do macro photography, they are really talking about "close-up" photography, shooting images of flowers, coins and like size subjects. You can cover a lot of ground with a lens that provides 1:2 magnification. You can even shoot some larger insects. In fact, some true macro lenses do not achieve greater than 1:2 magnification without the use of accessory tubes.

Regarding extension tubes, a set of Kenko tubes can be fairly costly. However, sometimes you can purchase a single tube less expensively; I have a 20mm tube for my Canon gear. A single extension tube added to your lens would enable you to get a bit closer, perhaps achieving 1:1 (image same size as subject) magnification.

Always remember, you will always be viewing your images at sizes larger than your 23.6mm x 15.7mm sensor so your final image shot at a 1:2 magnification would be way bigger than life size.

A final thought might be to investigate a close-up filter. These are handy and good quality close-up filters can provide decent imagery.

[adityapjoshi]

Gentlemen, thank you very much for all the advice you have given. I appreciate it.

Yes, I have already started my macro photography using my TAMRON. It does give me some decent shots...Am happy. But does not allow me to go too close or get a 1:1(true macro). As Dave advised, I have to work with it from quite a distance. The 1:2 given by it is good and I agree with Richard on that.

I am interested in closely photographing flowers and insects. I do have a tripod and a ML-L3 Wireless Remote for doing the shutter release activity. Yes, the extension tubes without contacts are pretty restrictive.

I have the budget to get the Kenko extension tubes with electrical contacts(Thanks Dave for the tip on buying it)so that I can mount my 35mm f/18G Nikkor Prime Lens onto it. Yes the working distance of this lens when mounted on the ET's will be reduced and this might call for buying a flash. Maybe a ring flash.

I will go ahead and buy the Ext Tubes so that I can use my kit lenses on them and play around.

Thanks Richard for the investigation of my lens. With regards to the close up filters, could you please suggest good ones.

As I don't have an external flash yet, I will shoot outdoors in sunlight. Could you also suggest a good flash for macrophotography for indoor use?

Thanks again to each one of you who have been very kind to reply to my post. Have a good day.

[Dave Humphries]

A final thought might be to investigate a close-up filter. These are handy and good quality close-up filters can provide decent imagery.

Good addition Richard,

Aditya, I don't have one or use them, but from what I've seen here, they are of more use where the subject is completely within the frame; e.g. an insect or similar.

I suspect they'll be less successful where the subject extends out of the edges of frame (e.g. part of a flower) because towards the edges, close up filters will be blurrier (than in the middle) and this may spoil the shot.

Cheers, Dave

[xpatUSA]

Good addition Richard,

Aditya, I don't have one or use [close-up filters], but from what I've seen here, they are of more use where the subject is completely within the frame; e.g. an insect or similar.

I suspect they'll be less successful where the subject extends out of the edges of frame (e.g. part of a flower) because towards the edges, close up filters will be blurrier (than in the middle) and this may spoil the shot.

Cheers, Dave

Yes Dave, for that very reason, I use a Raynox DCR-250 rather a simple "close-up filter".

Costs a bit more but has a coated compound lens and a spring-loaded adaptor for various lens filter sizes.

[DanK]

Gentlemen, thank you very much for all the advice you have given. I appreciate it.

Yes, I have already started my macro photography using my TAMRON. It does give me some decent shots...Am happy. But does not allow me to go too close or get a 1:1(true macro).

I have the budget to get the Kenko extension tubes with electrical contacts(Thanks Dave for the tip on buying it)so that I can mount my 35mm f/18G Nikkor Prime Lens onto it. Yes the working distance of this lens when mounted on the ET's will be reduced and this might call for buying a flash. Maybe a ring flash.

I will go ahead and buy the Ext Tubes so that I can use my kit lenses on them and play around.


As I don't have an external flash yet, I will shoot outdoors in sunlight. Could you also suggest a good flash for macrophotography for indoor use?

Thanks again to each one of you who have been very kind to reply to my post. Have a good day.

Aditya,

The extension tubes are a good purchase because you will be able to use them with any lens, so if you buy a macro lens in the future, you will be able to use it with that lens too. (I routinely use extension tubes with my macro lenses when I shoot bugs.) However, I wouldn't rush to buy much until you are more certain of what you need.

First, flowers and bugs are very different. For flowers, a short working distance is fine, and a tripod and remote release is helpful. In addition, you have many choices of lighting: ambient lighting, continuous lighting, and flash. Bugs are entirely different because most of the time, they won't stay still. You need a longer working distance, you often won't have time to set up a tripod (let alone a remote release), and you will need short exposures. For bugs, I usually use a monopod for stability, a 100mm macro lens, and a highly diffused flash--a regular flash held close to the lens with a home-made diffuser and bracket. It looks like this:



Like most macro photographers I know, I don't use a ring flash because they are hard to diffuse and tend to give flat lighting.

So, my suggestion is to take it slowly. Macro is highly technical, and you will need to study and practice. As you get more experience, it will be clearer which equipment is worth buying for YOUR needs.

In the meantime, I highly recommend checking out this macro forum: http://www.dgrin.com/forumdisplay.php?f=23. It is mostly bugs, not flowers, but some superb macro photographers post there, and you will see that the site has a quite a few tutorials. I got the design for my flash, for example, by looking at flash rigs posted by people there.

Dan

[adityapjoshi]

Thank you very much for the advice and suggestion. Am going slowly and learning step by step and it is fun. Yes, you are right about flowers and bugs. The more I understand the more interesting it is. What flash are you using in your setup...? May I request you to let me know how you made it...Just inquisitive.

[DanK]

The flash is a Canon 430 EXII. What is important is that the flash be what is called E-TTL by Canon. I am not sure what it is called for Nikons. What this means is that the camera will meter the flash through the lens (that is the TTL part) and will determine the length of flash that gets the right exposure. This automation is really helpful when shooting bugs.

For examples of similar rigs, see these postings:

http://www.dgrin.com/forumdisplay.php?f=23
http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=189001

Mine is similar to the second. The bracket is constructed from a straight flash bracket, with the shoe knocked off and two miniballs. The diffuser is built from two soda cans. Google 'coke can diffuser'.

[adityapjoshi]

The flash is a Canon 430 EXII. What is important is that the flash be what is called E-TTL by Canon. I am not sure what it is called for Nikons. What this means is that the camera will meter the flash through the lens (that is the TTL part) and will determine the length of flash that gets the right exposure. This automation is really helpful when shooting bugs.

For examples of similar rigs, see these postings:

http://www.dgrin.com/forumdisplay.php?f=23
http://www.dgrin.com/showthread.php?t=189001

Thanks Dan. I will check out the Nikon ones. Cheers.

[jcuknz]

I agree that 'plain tube' extension tubes are a PITB with modern lens without manual aperture control and without knowing the thread of your big zoom which might make it too expensive for you My first suggestion is to use the zoom with a moderate close-up LENS ... they are LENS and are NOT filters as the uninformed casually refer to them as

There is a common mis-apprehension that 'macro' "tight framing' means being able to come in close when the alternative method is to use the narrow angle of view of the longer lens to achieve the same framing from further back.

However much I used to be in favor of working this way since getting 'automatic extension tubes' if you can afford them it is a better way to go. CU Lens are the only way a bridge camera can work with its fixed lens but you have an ILC so the auto ext tube path is open to you if you can afford them. But unfortunately for DSLR users with large zooms even a suitable CU Lens is pricey ....ie. with my bridge camera a 55mm mount lens costs about US$25 whereas a 72mm doing the same job on a large DSLR zoom might cost US$145
On Amazon USA I found several offerings for about US$40 ....http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...ion+tube+nikon While B&H in New York is about twice that.

You location 'Wellington' is not that helpful is telling us where in the world you are and so we can give you advice and prices available to you ... to me Wgtn is in New Zealand but I guess there are other places

[jcuknz]

Immmmm

edit. the request as to what 'macro' you want to take is quite valid as my bridge camera with its 430mm zoom and a two dioptre CU lens [500mm] will fill the sensor with a 35mm across subject while still 13 inches back from it.
That rig has met most of my interests to recently when with my change to Micro Four Thirds has given me an ILC and the option of auto extension tubes ... hence my comment that is a better way
But I still use them with my x10 zoom 28-280mm range so it is a combination of both systems as I also added a two dioptre CU lens as well ... once.
This fellow joined me at the breakfast bar and was taken prior to getting the auto tubes so I used my two dioptre to help the x10 zoom to focus closer.

[jcuknz]

While Dan's flash rig is interesting I would point out that you already have quite a powerful flash [12m at 100 ISO] built into your camera and most of the time that is all I use though I have probably around a dozen flash units
In the full frame insert you will see a shadow across the bottom of frame due to my lens being quite large and the closeness of the pop-up to the camera lens .... one solution would be to make a periscope thingie to have the light coming from further above the camera ... so it is worth investigating how much a shadow the lens with extension tubes causes*.
Another argument in the use of any flash is that when it is closer you may need to reduce its power even if working with the lens closed right down [ normally shutter speed so long as you are within syncronisation limits does not affect flash shots, only the ambient light around ]
You may find that the camera is very clever and mixes sunlight with flash light quite attractively though if it burns out the subject you could need to reduce the flash power by one or two stops ... I have my camera flash set to minus one stop 24/7.

*alternatively you can buy or simply make you own with silver paper as I did for this experiment to direct the flash at the ceiling... straight flash and bounced [unfortunately off a yellow painted ceiling ]

[Pegger 3D]

Hi Aditya,

I just joined this site so that is why the 3 month late post, but this information may be still of some help.

I too have a D-7100 and have taken up photography as one hobby after retirement.

I am by no means rich and because i am on a fixed income, I have to save up for any costly purchases.

But I find in the long run it works out better not to compromise too much on lenses.

I have tried a tube and adapter and was not satisfied with the either results.

The ideal Nikkor Macro lens is the 105 MM F/2.8 but it is in the $1000 range.

So I did a lot of research and took a chance on a Tokina 100 MM F/ 2.8 Macro lens that was just over $500.

It turns out it is the sharpest lens in my kit and doubles beautifully as a portrait lens.

My suggestion-save up $500 and buy the Tokina.

Since I am in the process of learning several different photography genres, I have not delved too far yet into macro.

I have found that it is probably the most difficult and precise type of shooting to learn and will take some time to get good at.

I have just about saved up enough for my next and likely second last lens purchase-Nikkor 200-500 MM Telephoto lens.

I have the Nikkor AF-S 70-300 MM Zoom with VR and is fantastic for sporting events but doesn't quite make it for wildlife and especially birding.

It is around $1500 but Nikon, until last fall, never had a telephoto under $4000.

I have attached a picture to show the sharpness and bokey of the Tokina macro lens.



My 2 cents

[george013]

You could try a reverse ring with the 35mm, the BR2-A. As far as I know it has the same filterthtread. I played with it on a 50mm. As with all macro's it's difficult to focus on living subjects.



George

[billtils]

I have a D7100 and use Polaroid filters with my 50mm lens. You can get them for around £13 on ebay and other online retailers. Here are 3 shots taken with that set-up. The fungi were outdoors hand held, and the plant indoors in available light but mounted on a tripod. It's a great solution to macro on a budget.