Two Rivers National Wildlife Refuge, Illinois

[IzzieK]

Thanks for taking us along, enjoyed.

SAM -- Thank you for looking and commenting. I am glad my post allows you to learn something..

Dear Dave -- that is one of my favourites too in what I had pp so far...there will be more. So watch my post.

Dear Ziggy and Nandakumar...I am glad you enjoyed my post so far...

I truly appreciate you all passing by and commenting and critiquing for only then will I learn from my mistakes...believe me it is hard to tone down those fogs without that haze filter that is in CC as I only have CS6. Cheers...

[IzzieK]

I am still not brave enough to use Kelvin but I will get there...just waiting for the right situation. It is easier when the object or subject is static as I can take my time for a while. I will get used to it...sometimes when the situation calls for to make a quick shot, I just use auto or one of the WB then change it in pp...since I shoot RAW anyway...

Thanks for the added support...really love for you passing by my post...and critiquing them...

In the same situation; a series of shots where I want the same WB (using PS ACR - LR should be similar) - I might arrive at a 'good' WB that I am satisfied with on one shot, then manually set those exact same numeric Temperature and Tint values for the remainder of shots.

In Custom, you should be able to type numbers in the boxes, or move the sliders to achieve this.
With the temperature numeric field active, you can even use the arrow keys to move one way or other in steps of 50 (or 500 if you hold down the shift key while 'arrowing').
Same goes for Tint, but I think it goes in steps of 1 or 10 (as the numbers are much smaller).

[IzzieK]

Been there... You should've turned your camera on him, preferably with flash... Easy to think of afterwards.

Dang! I could have thought of that...but yesterday, I called up Courtney and spoke to her about that guy...and I told her what Bill and I thought of that guy which is not really pleasant. I will be more aware later on as I go through some more eagle watching events this winter...This is really my first eagle watching event in winter...I didn't know what to expect as I am not really a bird shooter as you may know...like you and Bobo.

FYI I typically just set my camera to auto wb warm (+1) and adjust from there if needed. In foggy shots I try to expose to the right as far as possible.

Can you explain Auto warm means and how do you set it to +1. I do not think mine has that option...

I don't have any pelicans in the fog, but here is a screen shot of a white swan in heavy fog. Check out the histogram. I could've pushed the exposure even more.

Thank you for the added support, Christina...I have made my edits and found out that my original images in the original post are all shot up! Now that I had corrected my monitor, it made a big difference that I did not even do a noise correction at all...I will upload them soon...Thanks again...learning from you a lot...this is my first fog so I need to know all I can about shooting in the foggiest fog atmosphere because this is my project for winter...these eagle watching thingie events...maybe even some other atmosphere I will encounter. I will tackle the fogs shooting first...and learn as I go along...

[IzzieK]

FWIW Izzie, I've done some ducks that were in that position and had to shoot with a narrow DOF and
have one of them OOF. You can take several shots, focusing on one then the other and simply stack them.

Binnur -- thanks for passing by and for your comment. I am glad you are safe where you are right now with all those things happening in your country. I was actually thinking of you lately...

William -- thank you for your suggestion. I will take note of that next time, which will not be too far away, should I encounter another one of those dramatic atmospheric conditions...pity Christina's post on her tree doesn't have those pelicans. I really like that one a hell of a lot... thanks for passing by. I do appreciate it a lot...

[IzzieK]

Here are my corrections on a newly calibrated monitor(s)--

#1 shot of Clark Bridge: no border but I think it needs a slight counter clockwise turn...and don't know how to manage it honestly...



#1 a This is the original colour...see the brief sunlight at the right side...



#2 doesn't need editing.

#3 naaahhhh...I will leave them fishermen alone....for now...

#4 the diving duckie...is this better Dave???? Dave??? are you there???



#5 Solo Pelican I just bright this one up a little bit...and automatically the noise wasn't there anymore. I did the same to the other dark images...



#6 Pelicans



#7 action pose...as if



#8 Seeing double....



Too much saturation this last one...sorry...I was enjoying myself with the pp...Now I am pelicaned-out...

Needed some more critiques and comments on these edits, if I may have them...??? Or I might think I am really that good...naaahhhh...just what to know what you all think...will appreciate any comments and corrections....

Cheers...and thank you all...
Izzie

[Shadowman]

I like the edit on the first image, however it changes the composition to a more cheerful setting. Nice recovery on the pelicans, #8 is a bit hot with the highlights and made the noise more visible.

[rtbaum]

Much better on the pecilans...I know....but I am feeling silly . #8 is a mite overdone.

[Dave Humphries]

..is this better Dave???? Dave??? are you there???

Yes, yes, I'm here Izzie.

Yes, they are mostly better (uh-oh).

#4a - It looks like you may have reduced the overall contrast by raising the black point to lift the corners, unfortunately this has affected everything, degrading the water ripples, duck and its wake.

I suspect what we are seeing is just the top 2/3's of the original full frame captured.

Assuming the vignette was artefact of the lens; what I think the shot needed was to use the lens correction vignette control (on the pre-cropped, entire image) to lighten all four corners. This would allow whatever other PP you'd done to be carried out as before, including the crop, giving use more contrast in the water ripples, duck and its wake.

#5a - Lookin' good now.

#6a - Is also better. As a quick and dirty fix; you could have tried a wipe or two of a sharpening brush around the eyes and along the beak/bill of the more distant Pelican.

#7a - It is wider and they're not on the left any more, although personally, I'd have tried a square crop.

#8a - Is now too bright - I know, I know, there's just no satisfying some people!

White balance is more consistent across 5a, 6a and 7a, but changes for the last; 8a.

If I were to guess, I'd say you ran out of time and rushed the last one

Sorry to spring a few new ideas on you tonight! Betcha wish I'd said them earlier.
No need to edit and post again for my benefit.

I hope this still helps, Dave

[Kaye Leggett]

Nothing to add to what's been said already except........ don't worry about getting your camera out or your tripod - who cares what a stranger thinks ??

[John 2]

Interesting story Izzie and nice set of images. My favourites are 5 and 8. Prefer the colour version of the bridge for the slight suggestion of morning sunlight on the bridge structure. This isn't as obvious in the mono version. I won't add to all the advice that has been given so far wrt PP. One way or the other, it's all been said.

[Stagecoach]

Hi Izzie,

Thanks for sharing your adventures and pics.

Technically Dave has covered all and your edits are an improvement. I just want to see that bridge rotated ACW about 1 degree

The additional sharpening for just the birds eye (and I also do it on some feathers) is something I do on almost all my bird shots. The secret is not to apply the additional to any edges otherwise it becomes too noticeable.

Grahame

[IzzieK]

FWIW Izzie, I've done some ducks that were in that position and had to shoot with a narrow DOF and
have one of them OOF. You can take several shots, focusing on one then the other and simply stack them.

That is a very good idea, William. I should take note of that on foggy days ... and clearer days too...eagle shots doesn't start until late January to February so I will try to practice doing two or three shots to merge...

Thanks for the advice...appreciate your passing by and commenting and the suggestion too.

[IzzieK]

I like the edit on the first image, however it changes the composition to a more cheerful setting. Nice recovery on the pelicans, #8 is a bit hot with the highlights and made the noise more visible.

Thanks for the added comment and support John...I overdid the darn thing...again.

[IzzieK]

Much better on the pecilans...I know....but I am feeling silly . #8 is a mite overdone.

Thanks for the added comment...that makes me feel better...I just might end up redoing that darn pelican for practice...

[IzzieK]

....I hope this still helps, Dave

When I recover from being ducked and pelicaned out, I will get back into these in the morning...and yes, your advice are a big help to me as always...

Thanks for the added support and comments and critique...helps me get my brain going...

[IzzieK]

Nothing to add to what's been said already except........ don't worry about getting your camera out or your tripod - who cares what a stranger thinks ??

Thanks for your comments, Kaye...appreciate it.

[IzzieK]

Interesting story Izzie and nice set of images. My favourites are 5 and 8. Prefer the colour version of the bridge for the slight suggestion of morning sunlight on the bridge structure. This isn't as obvious in the mono version. I won't add to all the advice that has been given so far wrt PP. One way or the other, it's all been said.

Thanks for commenting John...I am still learning and observing a lot for improvement...

[IzzieK]

Hi Izzie,

Thanks for sharing your adventures and pics.

Technically Dave has covered all and your edits are an improvement. I just want to see that bridge rotated ACW about 1 degree

The additional sharpening for just the birds eye (and I also do it on some feathers) is something I do on almost all my bird shots. The secret is not to apply the additional to any edges otherwise it becomes too noticeable.

Grahame

I didn't apply any sharpness to the edges of anything. I just used the Structure option of Viveza on all of them...I guess that carries a lot. I had also stopped using the Clarity slider of ACR as I understand Structure of Nik's better...On the second to the last image edit, I applied Tonal Contrast from Color Efex and I like the result...slide it forward and backwards a bit and got the effect I want and the clarity...It does not apply to my other shots though because it made some muddy looking like the twin looking last edit of the pelican...I will learn some more...especially as I do not have PSCC's haze filter in my CS6...

Thanks a lot for passing by and your suggestion and advice...always know that I value your opinion...a lot...appreciate all of them.

[Brownbear]

Can you explain Auto warm means and how do you set it to +1. I do not think mine has that option...

...this is my first fog so I need to know all I can about shooting in the foggiest fog atmosphere because this is my project for winter...these eagle watching thingie events...maybe even some other atmosphere I will encounter. I will tackle the fogs shooting first...and learn as I go along...

Hi Izzie,

With respect to setting my WB on my Nikon D7100 when I enter my shooting menu and select auto wb I have the option of auto and auto warm (retains warm colours), and the further option of enhancing the green/magneta/blue/amber light. With my Nikon D90 I had the option of selecting +1 2 or 3 (increments of warmness (sunsets) or -1 2 or 3 increments of coolness (winter scenes) which was easier to understand than the WB chart in the link below (I will be posting in a new thread because your question is beyond my ability to advise knowledgeably)

http://masteryournikon.com/2013/01/3...white-balance/

Of course if your shooting raw you can adjust in post any way you wish but a nice to know for jpeg only conditions.

With respect to shooting in foggy conditions I find it helps to be close to the subject, expose to the right as far as possible (because the light is so low it usually requires higher iso's), and also that it is very challenging to focus on birds in flight. I have yet to capture an eagle in flight in the fog that I like (underexposed/too slow a shutter speed/too high an iso/impossible to grab sharp focus, hard to get close, etc - but I'm sure it's possible so I will be trying again this year) In processing I don't add any contrast clarity (except perhaps lightly on the subject), and I'm careful with stretching the histogram too, much so I don't lose the sense of fog.

Dave has provided you with some wonderful feedback on your images so I don't have much to add except to say except that about the pelicans to add that the sense of fog is not there (for me) but the pelicans look good. I love the pure whites and soft colours seen in #6, the sharpness of #5, and the whites and wonderful poses of #7 (the vignette is too strong for my preferences and there is something demonic about the eyes which is not seen in the original?) I also adore the lovely watery background in #5 and #6) Well done for me for 5/6 and also the bridge...

[IzzieK]

Thank you again Christina for your help...I will re-read this post again later...but in the meantime I was having a hard time uploading that last twin shots because in my files, psd and jpg ones, I did not see any noise. When I loaded it here, it has that noise thingie so I converted that one to black and white. I do not know if it will show any noise once I upload it here but I will check and see...

I have to delete it...it has a noise. I am getting pelicaned out so I will just do another post of two more images in a separate post..

Thanks again for your support and help. I do appreciate it very much learning from you...cheers.

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