What Kayak for Wildlife Photography

[terrib]

Hi everyone,

I can't believe it's been a year since I've visited here. I'm glad to see so many people I know are still around. I'm still photographing wildlife more than anything else.

I know there are a few of you that go out on kayaks for wildlife photography. I am planning to purchase a kayak to expand my possibilities and was hoping to get advice from those that are experienced. I have taken lessons but I am a beginner. I plan on much more time on the water and more advanced lessons before I actually risk my gear or myself. But I want to start researching what to look for in a kayak and related gear that's best for photography. Some info that might help follows:

* I'm 58, a pretty strong swimmer but a bit out of shape
* I'm looking for wildlife so I'd be traveling still or slow waters - mostly lakes and calm rivers, maybe the Gulf but sticking to protected waters
* I have a Toyota Tacoma that I'd use when pulling the camper or a Toyota FJ if I'm not pulling a camper
* I'd be loading/unloading on my own
* Budget is not really a concern, within reason
* Gear I'd probably take is my old 7D and Canon 100-400.

Thanks for any info y'all can provide. I appreciate your time!

[rpcrowe]

My requisites for a photo kayak would be weight (if I were the only one to load and unload it) and stability (I'd hate to dunk my camera gear),

I did a Google search using Kayak Photography as my search parameters and got these hits...

https://www.google.com/search?q=kaya...hrome&ie=UTF-8

If I were going to use a kayak for photography, I might consider a catamaran kayak like the Wavewalk. The 500 model weighs only 60 pounds (27.27 kg.)...

http://wavewalk.com/blog/2012/06/24/...r-photography/

I would wear an auto inflatable flotation device and have a dry bag for my gear....

[terrib]

Thanks for taking the time, Richard. I've done the same google search and am reading everything I can but I'm hoping to have a conversation from someone who has experience. I remember there are a few who have posted photos taken from their kayaks. I considered contacting them through messaging, but even though it is a narrow audience, I thought there might be a few others who might learn from the conversation so I posted it here.

[AndrewMcD]

Hi Terri,
I use an Ocean Kayak Prowler Trident 13 fishing kayak for photography. This is a sit on top kayak which I purchased for fishing prior to developing an interest in photography. Being a sit on top makes it much easier to access gear and get in and out of the boat. I can do things like turn sideways, dangling my legs in the water, to allow a better position for taking a shot. The boat is stable enough that I can stand in it.....though I wouldn't try to take a photo standing. I have made trips as long as 12 miles in the boat in the company of friends paddling proper sea kayaks. While I had to work much harder I was able to keep up. Most of my paddling is on the Chesapeake Bay and its tidal rivers; fairly flat protected waters for the most part. I recently launched on the Delaware Bay and had the good fortune of paddling around Cape Henlopen into the Atlantic in the company of a large pod of dolphins. The photo below shows me in the yellow sit on top in an early spring paddle this year. Here is a link to a review of the boat that I have: http://www.yakangler.com/fishing-kay...ler-trident-13. I don't know if this exact model is still produced but something very close to it is certainly available.
I also paddle a 17 foot sea kayak that I generally do not use for photography primarily because of stability and access issues; it's hard to get to gear when in the cockpit. I am 65 years old and in pretty good condition but would classify myself as an advanced beginner in the world of sea kayaking. You simply cannot beat the level of intimacy with the environment that a kayak allows. Best of luck!
Note - I load and unload the kayak myself. I used to carry it on the roof rack of a Nissan Frontier pick up truck. This involved laying the kayak across the pickup bed and then standing in the bed and lifting the boat onto the rack. I now have a Mazda 3 with a kayak rack that has a roller in the back. I'm able to lift the bow onto the roller and then from the stern simply push the boat up onto the roof rack. I ALWAYS wear a pfd. I have never turned this kayak over accidentally. I do, a couple times a season, capsize intentionally and practice getting back into the boat; a practice I highly recommend.

[tbob]

I have photographed from canoes and sea kayaks, but never from a sit on kayak, although I suspect it would be similar to a small canoe.

Sea kayaks present a challenge because you can only access the area just in front of you while paddling. This restricts you to the camera plus one lens. Two lenses are possible and I have done it but the lens change logistics become very touchy. As well, although sea kayaks are very stable , I would never try to photograph in anything but long, low, predictable swell. Holding the camera to your face and bracing your core to stabilize it makes you instantly more unstable. Plus it precludes use of the paddle as a secondary stabilizer. Sea kayaks are stable, but primary stability depends on your ability to do unconscious micro adjustments with your hips, arms and shoulders to remain vertical. I do not want to get too far into this, but sea kayaks are designed to be have low initial (primary) stability to allow steering and manoeuverability. So they feel really "tippy" when a novice gets in. They have very strong secondary stability (they resist flipping over) but you do not want to be leaning at a 45 to 60 degree angle with a camera in your hands.

Canoes (sit on kayaks?) give you a much more stable platform, strong initial stability. Plus the abilities to carry much more gear and do lens changes.

Neither a canoe or kayak allows slow camera speeds. Just too many small movements in multiple dimensions. Using anything over 200mm handheld becomes a bit dicey for motion blur. Maybe on flat calm water, but flat calm is amazingly rare.

I would never go out with anything less than all my gear in closed Pelican cases. And only removed to shoot, then back in the case and lock the case. Bad things happen with alarming speed. As well, water will be splashing and dripping off the the paddle when you paddle. Unavoidable that things will get damp. Not so bad with fresh water, catastrophic with salt.

I do slip the camera strap over my neck, especially in a sea kayak because in several instances I needed to grab the paddle and having the camera attached to my body saved it. But I will say several of my friends shudder at the thought of having a camera strap wrapped around their neck and having to do a self rescue.

[DanK]

but sea kayaks are designed to be have low initial (primary) stability to allow steering and manoeuverability. So they feel really "tippy" when a novice gets in. They have very strong secondary stability (they resist flipping over) but you do not want to be leaning at a 45 to 60 degree angle with a camera in your hands.

Canoes (sit on kayaks?) give you a much more stable platform, strong initial stability. Plus the abilities to carry much more gear and do lens changes.

This is a critical issue. Recreational kayaks and the like tend to be wide and have flat bottoms. This gives them primary stability, which is basically stability on flat water. Most sea kayaks sacrifice primary stability for secondary stability. They tend to be narrower, with rounded or gently v-shaped bottoms, because a wide, flat bottom makes it hard to stay vertical when the water isn't horizontal. Sea kayaker like this because they treat the kayak like a bicycle, something the user balances, and secondary stability allows you to handle waves and the like. For example, you have probably seen canoeists turning into the wake of a powerboat so that they are not broadsided by the wake. An experienced sea kayaker doesn't need to do this; she just balances and braces if need be to keep the boat vertical as it rides up and down the wake.

For example, this is my main kayak, an Impex Assagueague. It's very tippy when you get in (very low primary stability) but wonderful in rough water (high secondary stability).

A sea kayak like mine is not very good for photography, for the reasons Trevor gave. In addition, I find that I inadvertently move when I hold binoculars or a camera with a long lens to my eye, which is not great in a boat with low primary stability. I do sometimes carry a camera with a long lens between my knees (in a dry bag, even though I use a spray skirt), but I find it difficult to use the camera, and a bit unnerving even though I have kayaked for years.

So I would recommend a boat with more primary stability, with one caveat. You don't want to be in a boat like that if the water gets too rough. I don't know how rough the Gulf gets. Personally, I wouldn't use a sit-on-top unless the water is very calm--too easy to lose stuff if you get hit by a wave, e.g, a wake.

In my neck of the woods, a popular boat among wilderness photographers is the "Hornbeck," one of a bunch of similar boats manufactured by Hornbeck Boats in upstate New York. These are hybrids between a canoe and a kayak. The hull shape is similar to a canoe, but you sit on the bottom near the center and use a kayak paddle. One of their attractions is that they are extremely light weight--light enough that you can literally throw them over a shoulder and walk a fair distance. However, this too is not a boat for rough water--it's open and small, and the gunwale is not all that far above the water line. I covet one of these but haven't splurged on one. I don't know if anything like it is available in your neck of the woods.

[terrib]

Thank you Dan, TBob and Andrew. Your comments are very helpful. I had initially thought a sit-on kayak would be best due to the stability since I am a beginner. My lessons were in a sit-in style and it didn't seem all that hard. The instructor said that a sit-on was more difficult to self-rescue so I started looking more into the sea kayaks. But you guys have reminded me of the difficulties introduced when focusing on the camera, such as turning, tilting etc to get that proper angle on the shot. Not to mention losing site of everything else going on around me. My next rental will be a sit-on so that I can feel the difference.

Andrew, there is a newer version of your kayak available. It's good to have a known model to compare to. Dan, those Hornbeck boats look interesting - especially with their light weight but even though I said budget isn't my main concern, maybe I won't need to spend that much on my first boat to get something that works. I also had considered seriously this boat, Advanced Frame Expedition, but every single person I've talked to has advised against it. It just seemed an alternative that offered me the ability to carry it in any vehicle without addition cost of carrying setups and something I could haul around, being about the weight of a feed sack. So the research continues!

Thank you!

[rpcrowe]

I just remembered something. I used to fish in lakes and rivers of the Pacific Northwest in an inflatable pontoon boat. I never used it for photography but, I remember it as being extremely stable. An added benefit was that I could make small corrections using a pair of swim flippers which left my hands free for rod and reel (I would imagine the same would be true of a camera/lens).



I never used it in fast white water but did use it in rivers like the Willamette River in and around Corvallis Oregon. I also used in in small lakes, sloughs and ponds. If memory serves me well, I was quite comfortable using the pontoon boat for a days fishing and I would assume that I would have been comfortable (and safe) using the pontoon boat as a photo platform.

I carried the pontoon boat on a car roof rack and had a wheeled dolly which allowed me to launch just about anywhere.

I never used one but, I have seen guys who had a small transom mount electric motor attached to the the pontoon boat. This allowed quiet effortless approaches to fish and would do the same for wildlife and birds.

I gave up the pontoon boat when I moved to San Diego (many years ago) because the local lakes would not (at that time) allow pontoon boats.

[Mike Buckley]

The most important criterion: a good cup holder!

[DanK]

Terri,

Self-rescue can mean a number of different things. Usually, kayakers use the term to mean rolling the boat without leaving the cockpit or reentering the cockpit if you are forced out of the boat. I am guessing that the people you are talking with mean neither of these and just mean safely separating yourself if you capsize. That's trivial if you use a sit-on-top or a recreational kayak with a large, open cockpit: if you capsize, you just fall off or out, as the case may be. Of course, so does your gear, but that's a different issue. With a sea kayak, you need to do a "wet exit." This involves popping the skirt, if you are wearing one, and then pushing yourself out by placing your hands on the deck even with or just behind your hips. This is actually quite easy to do, but IMHO, all novices should practice it because it is initially quite unnerving to be upside down with your legs stuck in the boat. So, if you do buy a sea kayak, my advice is to go someplace unthreatening, have someone stand next to you, and practice it.

If they really meant self-rescue, and if you are interested in that, then the type of boat that is easier depends on what you want to do. IMHO, most sit-on-tops and recreational kayaks are essentially impossible to roll, although some of the former can be outfitted with knee straps that make it possible. Regular sea kayaks are easy to roll once you know how to roll, but learning how to roll dependably typically takes adults quite a bit of practice. The alternative is to reenter the boat after leaving it. I have only done this with whitewater kayaks, but I think it would be easier with a sit-on-top or recreational kayak because the flat bottom would keep the boat more stable as you try to clamber over the back. No so with a sea kayak, which has low primary stability.

Unless you are going to paddle in rough water, you probably won't separate from your boat much, if at all. However, it pays to be safe.

I love using my boat, but all in all, I would never recommend something like it for a novice interested in using it for photography.

Dan

[BCrose]

Greetings, I would like to add some of my thoughts to this discussion as I am a very experienced kayak wildlife photographer. I shoot almost exclusively from a kayak. I have probably paddled 10K a week most summers for the past 10 years or so.

I am similar to you in many ways. I am 59, not the greatest condition but fairly fit. Not an athlete by any means. I shoot mainly birds and do so with a Nikon D500 with 500mm lens. I handhold this quite easily for short bursts to be honest, they are not as heavy as you might think. I also use a brace I built from a broomhandle, trimmed to about 18" with a 4"x6" piece of wood screwed to the top with a pad stapled to the board for cushion. I just prop this under the end of the lens when I am sitting waiting for a bird to do something exciting

I have went through a lot of different kayak testing. I hate the sit on tops, you get wet in these things unless you are very careful. I also recommend nothing over 10'. I can throw the 10' kayak in the back of my SUV when I do not want to load it on top. For a quick dash out to the lake this is ideal.

I have settled on a 10' Pelican sit inside with a fairly large opening. There is room to get the 500mm between my legs and easily pull it out when needed. I actually carry a second camera with 70-200. I occasionally throw in the 14-24 and have done some pretty nice landscapes from the kayak as well. Nothing like a morning sunrise from the middle of a small marshy lake!

I paid around $400 Canadian for the Pelican. I have a $1700 Jackson Traverse sitting in my garage because it is just a bit too tippy. The Pelican is untippable. I took it out and tried to tip it and couldn't...If I stood on the edge it might tip but even then I don't think so. It has a slightly wider base, not much, but that makes the difference. It is not the best rig for long distance paddling of course but I regularly take it on 4k runs around a small lake and it does fine.

It was bright yellow when new, I painted it camo and wear muted colours when out, pretty hard to sneak up on anything in a neon coloured boat I would think. Pelican sells a dark green one that I would have bought if available when I purchased mine. This is the one I use. I highly recommend it for bird photography. It weighs less than 50lbs and I can easily carry it on my shoulder as it is balanced very well.

Check my website for pics shot from this kayak... http://www.comeauphoto.ca/about.html

Hope this info helps, feel free to ask any questions you may have. I would be glad to help.

This is a pic of me in the Pelican, paint is wearing off a bit in this shot, I repaint it every spring. Get a green on to begin with
There is tons of room in the back waterproof compartment and under the bow, easily can carry all you need for overnight trips. I never use a dry bag or case, I just slip the camera gear under the bow if it rains or paddling in wind.

If you check my website you will see a pic of me with a 600mm Nikon F4 in the kayak...I was not worried about spilling this 14K lens in the water, that's how much I trust the 10' Pelican!

[rtbaum]

Terri,

It is great to hear from you.

Kayaks seem to be the rage today; I went out over the weekend with a local paddling club to a river in southern Minnesota and was shocked to see my canoe was the only one in a group of about a dozen kayaks. It is also of note that I was also the only one to carry an assortment of lenses and a DSLR in a Pelican case, the kayakers were too limited and rightfully nervous of carrying any camera other than I-Phones in ziplock bags.

I paddle a 15.5' Wenonah Wilderness solo canoe which gives me sufficient initial stability to get in and out with confidence, it can handle 2' waves very well, it is small enough for getting into tight spots, and it is light enough to portage ( a real plus in my neck of the woods...about a dozen kayakers were rather envious). The canoe has a lot of carrying capacity, I can easily carry 2 weeks of provisions....portaging 2 weeks of provisions is another story. It is about 45#, making it easy to take on and off a small SUV. It tracks very well on a straight line, but will turn quite nicely when needed. I can paddle it with a double bladed paddle, but have found that I prefer either a straight shaft or bent shaft single blade dependent on the situation.

From my experience with the kayaks, I did note that the kayaks were more maneuverable in the rapids, the canoe kicked their butts in flat water and waves. I think this more a function of what the individual craft is designed for, mine is designed to track straight, tackle waves, and go far with minimal effort while carrying a load.

I recommend trying out a few different personal watercraft to find a good fit for your needs before you commit, not all canoes are created equal. Check for a local paddling club in your area, many members will likely allow you to try out their kayaks and canoes. My local club will meet up weekly for that purpose alone, if only to show off their paddlecraft...paddlers are weird that way.

[DanK]

From my experience with the kayaks, I did note that the kayaks were more maneuverable in the rapids, the canoe kicked their butts in flat water and waves.

In my experience, it all depends on the boat. My white water kayak is extremely maneuverable but hard to keep on track and very slow. My main sea kayak, which is almost 18 feet long, is the reverse: it tracks very well and is much faster than a canoe but is very hard to maneuver. I'd never take it in serious rapids.

But for Terri's use, I don't think this matters much. I think the key things will be having a stable platform and easy access to gear. For those purposes, I think either an open kayak, like the one Monte recommends, or a canoe would be superior to either a long sea kayak or a sit-on-top.

Terri, not to complicate things, but the length issue that Randy mentions is an important consideration, IMHO. All other things equal, short boats are lighter, so easier to load on a car, and more maneuverable, but longer boats will track better and are faster. (These are nonplaning hulls, and hull speed is a function of hull length.)

Having paddled a lot of different boats, I strongly agree with Randy's suggestion that you try some out. All of the information folks have posted will be valuable, but in the end, you can't tell what a boat will feel like until you sit in it and paddle. Even things like the position of the seat back and the shape of the seat can make the difference between discomfort and a good time. Many reputable dealers will have some provision for trying boats out. When I bought my main sea kayak, I tried a bunch, and tried the one I ended up buying twice, before I made up my mind.

[rtbaum]

Any disagreement between Dan and I regarding the ultimate vessel for paddling not withstanding....I think we both agree that it is fun to knock paddle boarders over.

[terrib]

Hi Richard. That looks like a pretty cool boat and does seem like it would be good for photography. But I'll also want to go out with my kayaking friends and I don't think I'd fit in with that pontoon boat.

[terrib]

The most important criterion: a good cup holder!

Duly noted!

[terrib]

Thanks, Monte for all that detailed info. I'm glad to know the model of your kayak so I have something to compare when judging how stable one might be. I'm surprised to hear you say you don't use a dry bag or case. I was soaked after my lesson just from water dripping on me from the paddle. Maybe it's my poor technique but I'd be so worried about getting the cameras wet! But you certainly have the camera more accessible when you need it!

[terrib]

Thanks for the info Randy. I have a 16' fiberglass canoe that I'm sure weighs more than 45#. My husband and I loaded it together and I had difficulty just doing my part and I was much younger and stronger back then. I'd definitely have to look at something lighter.

[BCrose]

Thanks, Monte for all that detailed info. I'm glad to know the model of your kayak so I have something to compare when judging how stable one might be. I'm surprised to hear you say you don't use a dry bag or case. I was soaked after my lesson just from water dripping on me from the paddle. Maybe it's my poor technique but I'd be so worried about getting the cameras wet! But you certainly have the camera more accessible when you need it!

Once you get your paddling technique down you will not get wet from your paddles, I had the very same issue when I started out.

A lady friend of mine uses a 9' kayak that is even lighter, but just as stable. She takes her photography gear on board but she does use a dry bag.

Check out the Liquid Logic Remix. She loves it.

[Plumcrak]

I use a recreational 12' kayak, flat bottom, stable and quiet, as I am out on the lake before any boaters get out there or after they have gone in for the evening. DRY Bag is a must, if not for anything else but peace of mind. Just keep going out in whatever you choose and get comfortable with it. I also have a 10' kayak that I don't take much out except for fishing...I am 300lbs and the 10 footer sits a little low in the water with my big arse in it. Enjoy it on the water, it is an entirely different view!!