My 1st Auto Show

[Jim B.]

I'm going to a local auto show Monday and would like some input.
Equipment I plan to take:
5DII
12-24mm
15mm Fisheye
50mm
Are my lens choices okay?
Should I consider taking a flash?
Any tips will be appreciated.

[cneedha]

Bring the flash for sure. It helps fill in the shadows under the car, especially if you are going to be shooting in the middle of the day. I even used a flash on this shot.

[Jim B.]

Thanks for the tip,Chris.I'll take a flash with me.
Any comments on my choice of lenses?
I did a little research on car photography and I'm reading wide angle lenses aren't the best to use.Suggestions are for mid range zooms.
I just sold my 17-55, I could have used it with my 50D.
I also have a 24-105 and an 85 1.8.

[carregwen]

I'd take a polarizing filter. It's great for cutting out most of the glare and reflection you can get on paintwork from either the sun or indoor light. I used one on the shot below. I always avoid using a neck-strap - it's very easy for it to swing out and crash into the paintwork if you bend over to look at something on the car.

[Jim B.]

Rob,

Very nice! CPL leaves me one choice for lens combo,24-105 + 10-22.I only have a 77mm CPL filter.Thanks for the tip on neck straps.I use a Spyder holster, if I don't plan to hand carry the camera.
Man,I wouldn't want to PO any of the car owners.I'll keep my wits about me.
I'm looking forward to this.There's supposed to be 900 cars and bikes there this year.

[PopsPhotos]

Polarizer and grad filters. Flash, dialed back. Take the 24-105 lens as the WA lenses don't do well for car shots, in most aspects. I use a 3-point harness, which keeps the camera captive to my chest.

When you think you have the best angle for the car, shoot it and then move around a bit. Often the one-eyed camera sees things just enough differently to what you see with 2 eyes to make a different perspective a better or more interesting shot. This is where closing one eye will help you decide on the best shot.

Pops

[Dave Humphries]

Yes, longer (focal length), rather than wider, would be my advice; wider means you'd need to get up close, then your reflection will be seen!

Personally I'd avoid flash because of the tell-tale reflections, which will usually be a different CT from ambient (cooler) and they'll be much worse on anything shiny, which most cars are - but that's just me.

I'd use a polariser to kill reflections on glass, but it can look unnatural on bodywork close up, but OK for whole car shots if you rotate for a pleasing effect.

Rob makes a good point about the neckstrap danger; I do still use one and have to be very careful.

Good luck,

[cneedha]

Use your legs too, shooting from headlamp level or slightly above gives some nice shots. Of course you may be sorry the next day! I agree with the polarizer suggestions- I didn't bring one the last show I went to and was sorry.

[Jim B.]

Thanks for the input,everyone.
5DII ,24-105,CPL and a flash.
I'll get some practice on my car this weekend.

[RobBixbyPhotography]

Jim, I try to focus on details more these days. Everyone has whole-car images. The ones shown in this thread show how much more interesting details can be. It is also easier than trying to get clear shots if the cars are too close and too many people. It will also minimize you being in the images. Because of the angles and reflective surfaces on cars, if you look close enough, you will find your reflection in nearly every one of the shots. After your lens and equipment selections are finished, the one thing you really need to take with you is patience. People will walk in front of you and then stop there for more time than you'd like. Have fun.

[carregwen]

Jim, I try to focus on details more these days. Everyone has whole-car images. The ones shown in this thread show how much more interesting details can be. It is also easier than trying to get clear shots if the cars are too close and too many people. It will also minimize you being in the images. Because of the angles and reflective surfaces on cars, if you look close enough, you will find your reflection in nearly every one of the shots. After your lens and equipment selections are finished, the one thing you really need to take with you is patience. People will walk in front of you and then stop there for more time than you'd like. Have fun.

Good point, Rob. Whole car images are tricky at a show as you will always get people in the shot. I usually zoom in close and get details. If the cars are outdoors you can also get interesting reflections from clouds, like these. Mind you, you can get funny comments from people saying "Why are you getting so close?" as they expect photographers to do the whole car.

[Jim B.]

I was in town to do some shots at a Vintage Boat Regatta and they had a mini car show,so I took some photos.
It looks like detail shots are what I'll concentrate on tomorrow.No easy way to shoot whole cars without the problems you all brought up.

[rpcrowe]

I would advise not using UWA lenses unless you deliberately want to include distortion in your image. Shooting closeups as above are always great choices. Now comes the decision time... Are you going to want to shoot the cars at the car show or shoot the car show? If you want to shoot the show, including some people looking at the cars is appropriate...

[Nomadr]

i quite enjoy using wide angle lens at car shows, always try and make yourself invisible, its good fun, if you see a good shot don't be afraid to ask people to move out of the way, cheers martyn

[Jim B.]

Thanks again,everyone, for the help.
Here's some shots from the show.

[arith]

Memories of my youth come flooding back with images of the roller; my friends dad had two, and he used to work for the council digging square holes until he invested his inheritance and became a trader. Was popular then.

And the Jag because a teacher had half a dozen including MK1, MKII, E-Type and some more modern. I like the shiny colours.

[wilgk]

Very nice results Jim - I get a sense of the event from your series. Nice work

[Jim B.]

Thanks,Kay.
I had a good time.I learned something there.I could have gotten a lot of shots of cars without people around if I sat on the curb on the road into the show area.I didn't realize it until I was on my way out.
A few more.

[arith]

It is not the sort of photo I do but I like the light; on my 1958 landrover turbocharged until I swapped for HIF carbs and manifold the spots kept fusing everything until they was knicked, stolen. It was definitely a lot of work with that car because I took over a mid engined beast and thought it would be only the engine and transmission I would have to redesign and fix, but actually it was everything. I bought it for £640 and sold it for £1700 but it cost loads more than that. I bet the people that bought it wasn't happy either.

[Dave Humphries]

Great series Jim, well up to your usual high standards.

Isn't there anything you do averagely or badly