Tokina 12-24mm F4 II

[Polar01]

John if you want to help with noise, I would suggest that you overexpose the shot by at least 1 stop if not than 1-1/3 stops at what ever high ISO you are using in this case ISO 3200. Do not worry what the histogram shows as that is developed from the j-peg that the camera uses to create it, the histogram. There is plenty of room as the manufactures leave dummy room so those who shoot j-pegs will not blow there shots.

Cheers: Allan

[ajohnw]

It looks to me that the lights were clipped a touch in raw Allan but that is always worth bearing in mind. Currently as the software I use hasn't all caught up with the 80D I can't really tell if raw has more space than the shot used up but there is a small spike at the end which is the bright patch by one of the wall lights.

This is just a reduction of the jpg. Nothing done other than the usual slight sharpen after reducing.



The lights are more blown. The carpet has lost it's vividness as well. The reduction has removed the soft look that the camera noise removal left. which I should have turned off but I knew this one would have to be done from raw. If I wanted the jpg I would have shot 1 or 2 stops under, probably both. The problem noise pixel peeping was in the ceiling and fire place.

I'll probably have several goes on the shot from raw. New camera and the first time I have used it. I might try a lighter version as per the jpg but that isn't as the room was.

John
-

[Polar01]

I have found that when working on images that I have on overexposed my work flow is different. I do not adjust the exposure slider to darken the image down but the "Whites" which are in the 250-255 tonal range, then the highlights, then shadows, then last if needed blacks. You will find that you get less noise as that is the result of less data and it is all about the data, so it you have to darken something down the more data you have gathered the less noise will be the result. There is a very good article titled: The Optimun Digital Exposure, in Luminous-Landscape by Bob DiNatale problem is you now need a subscription which is now $12.00 a year to read it still a good price for a year.

Cheers: Allan

[ajohnw]

I generally start a similar fashion but noise first as the software uses a pipe so runs all of the adjustments that I have made in what ever order I have made them. If I didn't do noise first some adjustments would augment it. Then comes highlights and shadows and blacks and etc. Often though compromises have to be made at one end or the other and the most important thing is what sort of shape of "curve" or whatever people might use to alter how the various tone levels show in the photo which is effectively messing with contrast / gamma.

It's rare for me to use the exposure slider. I might adjust the black point more often. In essence the best option as I see it is what ever is best for the shot. I spent a lot of time on here circa a couple of years ago and received a lot of help. Shooting to the right and many other aspects cropped up regularly. The truth is no single method is a panacea for everything that might be in front of a camera. Some flexibility is needed.

John
-