Preferred lenses for landscapes

[dragonaxe]

I've got a Canon 1000D with stock 18-55mm lens, and have a passion for landscape images. Should I consider buying a wide angle lens, and if so, which "lower budget" one would you recommend?

[arith]

I don't think you need any wider but you could try this Tokina I suppose. I don't have one but I think some do around here.

http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/tokina_12-24_4_n15/

[Clactonian]

I don't think you need any wider but you could try this Tokina I suppose. I don't have one but I think some do around here.

http://www.dpreview.com/lensreviews/tokina_12-24_4_n15/

Yes, I have one. It's built like a tank and sharp, but the chromatic aberrations can be a problem.

[dragonaxe]

So would that be a recommendation to a beginner, Mike?
and I guess that means spending £400 or so, if I want something decent

[rpcrowe]

I have the Tokina 12-24mm f/4 Mark-I. I have no great CA problems because these can be remedied relatively easily in post production...

[timo2]

I've got a Canon 1000D with stock 18-55mm lens, and have a passion for landscape images. Should I consider buying a wide angle lens, and if so, which "lower budget" one would you recommend?

With the lens you have, shoot several overlapping frames and then, back home, stitch them together in something like PTGui (there are also free alternatives).

PTGui is a lot cheaper than a new lens and with it you can make far wider images than any single lens can and, as a bonus, the resolution of your final image will exceed any single lens too.

http://www.ptgui.com/

[dragonaxe]

wow..cool idea, Tim!!!! I'd never thought of that!

[Colin Southern]

Hi Gareth,

Landscape per sec doesn't really equate to any particular focal length. I wrote an article for Singh-Ray some time ago ... you might find it of interest.

[Shadowman]

Hi Gareth,

Landscape per sec doesn't really equate to any particular focal length. I wrote an article for Singh-Ray some time ago ... you might find it of interest.

After failing the test other questions arose, such as what was the exposure time and aperture used. I was curious how you were able to get such control of the colors and exposure, but after re-reading I saw the answer to how it was controlled. The curiosity was tweaked because I tried a night shot with a 50mm f/1.8 lens using a slightly long exposure and the highlights were blown. The subject was a few buildings at a distance of about 200 feet, illuminated by some street lights and a few flashes of lightning.

[Colin Southern]

After failing the test other questions arose, such as what was the exposure time and aperture used. I was curious how you were able to get such control of the colors and exposure, but after re-reading I saw the answer to how it was controlled. The curiosity was tweaked because I tried a night shot with a 50mm f/1.8 lens using a slightly long exposure and the highlights were blown. The subject was a few buildings at a distance of about 200 feet, illuminated by some street lights and a few flashes of lightning.

Hi John,

Night photography often involves extreme contrast (ie "the black of night" and the iillumination of artificial lights) - and this often plays havoc with in-camera metering. I usually suggest that people just take a few test shots and go from there. The highlights are going to blow anyway, so my suggestion is to simply get the image looking nice on the camera review screen which in essence is just exposing for the mid-tones.

Does that help?

[dragonaxe]

cheers colin. That article makes a lot of sense! Time for me to stop worrying about equipment and start developing my creative eye