How would you go about Sharpening this photo non destructively in PS?

[TheBigE]

I guess I could google this - but then I also trust the opinions of those here on CiC.

Here is my current screen of PS - I would like to do a little creative sharpening and maybe work on the tram a bit. This photo started in LR (actually LR Mobile) and then over to PS for the final touches. I usually end up flattening the image after I have done Selective Color Adjustments and Dodge and Burn - I would like to have the ability to go back and modify the sharpening should I decided it is needed.

I am familiar with the main sharpening modes of PS, just not clear in my mind how to keep the layers in tact (this case on the dodge and burn). I would see that I could come back to this photo from LR in the future and have the same layers available for modification.

Thanks

[Manfred M]

Erik - local sharpening is pretty well the last step I will undertake in my workflow, when all of the other local operations have been completed, and to a large extent that is due to the way Adobe has set up its sharpening tools.

I will use the <Ctrl> <Shift> <Alt> e command and create a new layer. I will use the Unsharp Mask or Smart Sharpen menu item to create the level of sharpness I want on the part of the image I am sharpening (working at 100% magnification).
When I get the area looking the way I want, I will add a black layer mask to hide the layer I have just created and will paint over that with a soft white brush that I have set to a 5% - 10% opacity and will paint in the effect. If there is more than one area of the image that I will use the same level of sharpening for, I will repeat. Depending on the amount of sharpening I want, I may not totally reveal that part of the mask.

I will repeat this process until I am done. Usually one or two different sharpening layers is about as complex as I need to go.

As I follow a non-destructive workflow, all the layers are intact and are saved with the file.

If I find I don't like the final result (over sharpened or not sharpened enough), I will try a couple of different approaches:

1. I will create a new sharpened layer to and copy the sharpening layer mask before throwing out the sharpened layer.

2. In the case of oversharpening, often all I have to do is to reduce the opacity of the sharpening layer and that will fix things.

3. For undersharpening, I duplicate the sharpened layer and reduce the opacity of the new layer to see if that will fix things. The original sharpened layer remains untouched.

[TheBigE]

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I will use the <Ctrl> <Shift> <Alt> e command and create a new layer.

Thanks Manfred - that was the key that I was looking for - new layer from the flatten layers below. Of course if I go back and change any of the layers below then I MIGHT have to change the sharpening layer. If done as the last step in the workflow not a major issue and any changes would only be minor.

[Manfred M]

Thanks Manfred - that was the key that I was looking for - new layer from the flatten layers below. Of course if I go back and change any of the layers below then I MIGHT have to change the sharpening layer. If done as the last step in the workflow not a major issue and any changes would only be minor.

Correct - but only if your changes affect the sharpened area. If you are burning or dodging in another part of the image, you will most likely be fine.

[TheBigE]

Correct - but only if your changes affect the sharpened area. If you are burning or dodging in another part of the image, you will most likely be fine.

Beyond your options above (Opacity, Start again with same mask, etc) There really is no way to go back and change the parameters of your USM or SS after they have been committed?