RAW files - which software?

[pono]

will resizing the files effect it if i go to print them out, or do i have to go and make them bigger again?

[Colin Southern]

Hi Pono,

It all depends on what you mean by "resizing".

If for example you don't resample the image (so the actual number of pixels remains the same, and the size of the file remains the same) then "resizing" won't affect the quality. If you resample the image so that the file size gets smaller and the number of pixels in the image gets smaller then yes - information is being thrown away and this can't be recovered.

[Dave Humphries]

will resizing the files effect it if i go to print them out, or do i have to go and make them bigger again?

Yes and no

The down-sized version for web/forum use (with less pixels) should be saved as a separate filename; typically I put the longest dimension in the filename of all reductions so I can tell them apart from the fullsize ones. e.g. "DSC1234_W700.jpg" is a 700 pixel wide version of DSC1234, now that fullsize file might be saved as a TIF, a PSD, or for printing, a JPG.

So when you want to print, (if later) just re-open the saved large file version. It would not be a good idea to try to enlarge a reduced image and then print it, you will have lost a lot of quality, as Colin says.

OK, that has answered the question, but ...

At the risk of confusing things, what you can do is this - now you have to do it all in one go, do not shut down the computer (e.g. to go to bed) and continue the next day. My apologies if I didn't need to explain that but it is important.

1) Finish processing the image in say Elements, or whatever image editor you have
2) Reduce for web use by Image Resize, say to 700 pixels wide
3) Sharpen the small picture with USM at 100%, 0.3px, 3 threshold
4) Save As (as) suggested above; e.g. DSC1234_W700.jpg
5) Undo twice, the first undoes the sharpen, the second undoes the downsize (perhaps this is what you meant by make it big again?)
6) Sharpen for printing with USM at say, 130%, 0.4px, 0 threshold
7) Save As DSC1234_P.jpg - so you know it's the print version

Now - those sharpening figures are only ballpark figures, what you actually need depends a lot on the picture content.

Also, I skipped including step 0), which would be to just save DSC1234.psd or .tif, so you have a better quality version to go back to if, after posting here, we advise you to try something additional in PP. ... and of course, always keep the unprocessed RAW image!

Hope that helps,

[Colin Southern]

2) Reduce for web use by Image Resize, say to 700 pixels wide
3) Sharpen the small picture with USM at 100%, 0.3px, 3 threshold

Hi Dave,

Does PSE give you a choice of down-sampling algorithm (eg "Bucubic Sharper")? I'm finding that in PS, if I go for the bucubic sharper option I normally don't have to worry about output sharpening for display here.

[Geoff F]

Just one suggestion, in case you are as daft as I am. Which admittedly is unlikely!

Create a separate folder just for resized internet images, and clearly label it . Save your resized photos there and nothing else. Keep your full sized images somewhere completely apart.

And I still get confused sometimes!

[Dave Humphries]

Hi Dave,

Does PSE give you a choice of down-sampling algorithm (eg "Bucubic Sharper")? I'm finding that in PS, if I go for the bucubic sharper option I normally don't have to worry about output sharpening for display here.

It does, but I find it too crude - the radius is about 1px (my guess)

I prefer to be in control (Dave retires with an evil, cackling, laugh)

[pono]

thanks for all the help. i really appreciate it. i have a couple more questions if you guys dont mind. i dont know what USM is. i use PS CS3 for PP, and digital photo professional for my RAW converter. its the program that came with my camera. i dont know what resampling is but when i convert from RAW to TIFF, i have the option to resize, and i can change the length and width in pixels or inches.
also, where do i post my photos to get critique?

[Hansm]

USM stands for Unsharp Masking.
You find in PS CS3 under Filters->Sharpen->Unsharp Masking.
This opens a new window where you have 3 sliders. I suggest to play with it and look what these do.
About posting I hope the Moderators can provide you more info about it.

[Peter Ryan]

I have the older v2.4.1 to play with and have just downloaded the Alpha 3 version. I have trouble with the thumbnails - they appear very posterised. When I open them they are fine. Anyone else have this problem?

[Geoff F]

Yes, Peter, the RT programme initially shows a rather poor quality image until you double click it when, eventually, it becomes a high resolution image.

I suspect this is to save time and space which would be considerably more if every image was full quality. This way you only have one, or possibly 4 or 5, high quality images selected at any one time.

I have found that when converting a number of files one after the other, you should close any open files (which are shown on the top toolbar) after about 5. If you allow them to build up, I find that the programme crashes. And don't close them all down too quickly. I find that you need to wait a second or two between closing each file; otherwise the software appears to get overloaded and crashes.

Eventually, I appear to be getting the better of RT 3 and find that I much prefer it to the earlier version.

[Peter Ryan]

Yes, Peter, the RT programme initially shows a rather poor quality image until you double click it when, eventually, it becomes a high resolution image.

I suspect this is to save time and space which would be considerably more if every image was full quality. This way you only have one, or possibly 4 or 5, high quality images selected at any one time.

I have found that when converting a number of files one after the other, you should close any open files (which are shown on the top toolbar) after about 5. If you allow them to build up, I find that the programme crashes. And don't close them all down too quickly. I find that you need to wait a second or two between closing each file; otherwise the software appears to get overloaded and crashes.

Eventually, I appear to be getting the better of RT 3 and find that I much prefer it to the earlier version.

Thanks Geoff, I can see RAW files ok, its the jpgs I cannot see, they are almost pure white with small streaks of bright colour. I just cannot make out detail at all. When I open them I can see them OK and work on them. I subsequently opened RAW files to have a play and each time the system crashed. I think I will leave V3 for a while and revert to the earlier one. I use PS myself but want to teach some people this program so I will go back to the old version and they can upgrade when they feel ready.

[Geoff F]

I never touch the Jpegs, Peter. I expect they are blurred out to avoid confusion over which are Raw and which are Jpeg.

The most important things to worry about with RT 3, in my opinion, are never try to open any files until the whole folder has loaded (the blue progress bar in the bottom corner); never drag the sliders back and forth to make adjustments, enter numbers and click Enter (on your keyboard) after any alterations. And do everything rather slowly to allow the programme to 'catch it's breath' between alterations.

And frequently threaten to delete the programme!