BIF using back focus button.

[Craigie]

Today was the first non cloudy day for a while. So it was a good time to practise getting some BIF using the back button focus on my Canon 6D with a Sigma 150-600mm lens.
Below are some of the results.
Settings Tv priority auto ISO A1 servo continuous shooting.
Generally would these settings be correct for shooting BIF ?.
C&C most welcome.

1 f6.3 1/800sec ISO 320 FL 600mm


2 f5.5 1/1250sec ISO 640 FL 168mm


3 f6.3 1/1250sec ISO 320 FL 600mm


4 f7.1 1/1250sec ISO 250 FL 600mm


5 f7.1 1/1250sec ISO 320 FL 600mm


6 f6.3 1/600sec ISO 250 FL 600mm

[Shadowman]

Looks to be a good combo, nice captures.

[bnnrcn]

A nice set Gary But I think you added so much sharpening and/or structure that I can see halos all around the bodies of the birds. So, I would step back a bit. I would also clone the bright spot next to the top frame in #5 as it distracts a bit.

I don't shoot birds but my camera is a Canon 70D and I know that A1 servo continuous shooting is used for moving objects. So, your settings seem to be right but bird shooters might give more accurate opinion than me

[NorthernFocus]

You did good. I really like nos. 1, 3, and 6. Gulls have fairly slow wings so SS worked OK but in general 1/1000 is about min for most bif.

[Geoff F]

Focus depth can be rather shallow with these bigger lenses, almost as bad as macro lenses at times. I usually start by pushing the Iso up to 800 to see what that gives me in the way of options (Sigma Sport version). I like to have an aperture between F8 and F11 to give a bit more focus depth.

A shutter speed of about 1/800 is usually acceptable for slow gliding, or walking, birds but as soon as there is any wing flapping I like to be at least double that speed.

If possible, in bright conditions I try to reduce the Iso to 400 but I would sooner risk a little bit of noise in the shadows to avoid movement blur.

Auto focus usually works best for me when the subject is moving (faster than I can manually focus) but when on the ground and there is a risk of false focus problems from the camera auto focusing on the background/foreground instead of the subject, I switch to manual focusing. The Manual Override auto focus option is a great help.

ps. When it comes to sharpening I frequently put a selection around the subject and sharpen only the bird. Then reverse the selection and do a bit of extra selective noise reduction on the background/foreground areas. This avoids having distracting well sharpened water ripples or foliage, etc.

[Craigie]

Looks to be a good combo, nice captures.

Thanks John.

[Craigie]

A nice set Gary But I think you added so much sharpening and/or structure that I can see halos all around the bodies of the birds. So, I would step back a bit. I would also clone the bright spot next to the top frame in #5 as it distracts a bit.

I don't shoot birds but my camera is a Canon 70D and I know that A1 servo continuous shooting is used for moving objects. So, your settings seem to be right but bird shooters might give more accurate opinion than me

Thanks Binnur.
I don't know why there is halos in my images. I used unsharp mask in PS, the settings were Amount 170%, Radius 0.4 and Threshold 0. These are the usual settings I use for posting images on this forum, though I will increase the Threshold if there is some noise in the image.

[Craigie]

You did good. I really like nos. 1, 3, and 6. Gulls have fairly slow wings so SS worked OK but in general 1/1000 is about min for most bif.

Thanks Dan for comments and info.

[Craigie]

Focus depth can be rather shallow with these bigger lenses, almost as bad as macro lenses at times. I usually start by pushing the Iso up to 800 to see what that gives me in the way of options (Sigma Sport version). I like to have an aperture between F8 and F11 to give a bit more focus depth.

A shutter speed of about 1/800 is usually acceptable for slow gliding, or walking, birds but as soon as there is any wing flapping I like to be at least double that speed.

If possible, in bright conditions I try to reduce the Iso to 400 but I would sooner risk a little bit of noise in the shadows to avoid movement blur.

Auto focus usually works best for me when the subject is moving (faster than I can manually focus) but when on the ground and there is a risk of false focus problems from the camera auto focusing on the background/foreground instead of the subject, I switch to manual focusing. The Manual Override auto focus option is a great help.

ps. When it comes to sharpening I frequently put a selection around the subject and sharpen only the bird. Then reverse the selection and do a bit of extra selective noise reduction on the background/foreground areas. This avoids having distracting well sharpened water ripples or foliage, etc.

Thanks Geoff for taking time to post this information, it is much appreciated.

[bnnrcn]

Or you can simply do this:

First duplicate the final image and sharpen the duplicated layer with your usual settings,
Then add a layer mask to your sharpened layer and erase the halos with a brush at % 50 opacity.

This way the rest of the image won't be effected

Thanks Binnur.
I don't know why there is halos in my images. I used unsharp mask in PS, the settings were Amount 170%, Radius 0.4 and Threshold 0. These are the usual settings I use for posting images on this forum, though I will increase the Threshold if there is some noise in the image.

[rpcrowe]

I have not tried this but, I read that setting the f/stop around f/8 and the shutter speed at 1/1,000 second manually and then using auto ISO is one way to go...

This would depend if the auto ISO of your 6D gives you control over the maximum ISO...

[Craigie]

I have not tried this but, I read that setting the f/stop around f/8 and the shutter speed at 1/1,000 second manually and then using auto ISO is one way to go...

This would depend if the auto ISO of your 6D gives you control over the maximum ISO...

Thanks Richard for info.
The 6D has control over the maximum ISO, will give that a try.

[Cantab]

Focus depth can be rather shallow with these bigger lenses, almost as bad as macro lenses at times. I usually start by pushing the Iso up to 800 to see what that gives me in the way of options (Sigma Sport version). I like to have an aperture between F8 and F11 to give a bit more focus depth.

A shutter speed of about 1/800 is usually acceptable for slow gliding, or walking, birds but as soon as there is any wing flapping I like to be at least double that speed.

If possible, in bright conditions I try to reduce the Iso to 400 but I would sooner risk a little bit of noise in the shadows to avoid movement blur.

Auto focus usually works best for me when the subject is moving (faster than I can manually focus) but when on the ground and there is a risk of false focus problems from the camera auto focusing on the background/foreground instead of the subject, I switch to manual focusing. The Manual Override auto focus option is a great help.

ps. When it comes to sharpening I frequently put a selection around the subject and sharpen only the bird. Then reverse the selection and do a bit of extra selective noise reduction on the background/foreground areas. This avoids having distracting well sharpened water ripples or foliage, etc.

Gary, as others have indicated, a high shutter speed is critical to freeze any wing flapping and you need a small enough aperture that you'll get some depth of focus. So shooting in manual is the way to go, especially if you're using auto ISO. (I have no idea what happens if you combine auto ISO with automated shutter priority.)

There have been some excellent threads is the past on BIF. Several were by Joe (in Florida if I recall correctly); his work is extremely good. Hopefully you can locate those threads.

Edit: after hunting, I found a number of the early BIF threads. This page contains a number of helpful comments by Joe: Eagle in Flight - Help please

[Craigie]

Gary, as others have indicated, a high shutter speed is critical to freeze any wing flapping and you need a small enough aperture that you'll get some depth of focus. So shooting in manual is the way to go, especially if you're using auto ISO. (I have no idea what happens if you combine auto ISO with automated shutter priority.)

There have been some excellent threads is the past on BIF. Several were by Joe (in Florida if I recall correctly); his work is extremely good. Hopefully you can locate those threads.

Edit: after hunting, I found a number of the early BIF threads. This page contains a number of helpful comments by Joe: Eagle in Flight - Help please

Many thanks Bruce for your input and link to "Eagle in Flight".
It was a question (I have no idea what happens if you combine auto ISO with automated shutter priority.) I did ask myself, but could not work it out what would happen.
Does any one have an answer?

[Craigie]

Or you can simply do this:

First duplicate the final image and sharpen the duplicated layer with your usual settings,
Then add a layer mask to your sharpened layer and erase the halos with a brush at % 50 opacity.

This way the rest of the image won't be effected

Thanks a lot Binnur, I will try your suggestion.

[madcrow]

Cannot add any advice but well taken images.

[NorthernFocus]

Many thanks Bruce for your input and link to "Eagle in Flight".
It was a question (I have no idea what happens if you combine auto ISO with automated shutter priority.) I did ask myself, but could not work it out what would happen.
Does any one have an answer?

Perhaps it is explained in the camera owner's manual. With Nikon one sets limits on ss and aperture. Then depending on which mode you're shooting ISO remains constant until those limits are reached. Then ss/aperture stop changing and ISO begins to change as needed for exposure.

[Jim A]

My preference is no 4 Gary, the rest look oversharpened to my unsophisticated eye. Binnur comments wisely and with extensive experience, it seems to me, and I'll be noting her comments and applying these in future. So lucky to have these mentors.

[Craigie]

Cannot add any advice but well taken images.

Cheers Maurice for viewing and comments,

[Craigie]

Perhaps it is explained in the camera owner's manual. With Nikon one sets limits on ss and aperture. Then depending on which mode you're shooting ISO remains constant until those limits are reached. Then ss/aperture stop changing and ISO begins to change as needed for exposure.

Thanks Dan, I will check the manual.