Simple Tabletop Photography Tools

[Mike Buckley]

Peter (ST1) asked in another thread how I support backgrounds when I do tabletop photography. I most often support them either by hanging them from a boom or by using the same way I support white reflectors using methods displayed in the photos shown below. Occasionally I attach a background material to a reflector purely because I've already got a few reflectors that I've made to be self-supporting.

Hopefully one outcome of this thread is to show that you don't need expensive equipment requiring lots of storage space to make very pleasing tabletop photos. Indeed, it's amazing to see how many enjoyable photos can be lit using just one light source and one reflector.

NOTE: These photos are nothing other than quick grab shots captured to display the tools. Don't waste your time critiquing them; instead, just mention that they are lousy and I'll be in agreement.

Everyone is invited to provide more inexpensive, simple tips and tricks.

Photo #1
The boom is inexpensive, as it is so lightweight that it has and needs no counterweight. It is supported by a light stand. I generally keep about five binder clips hanging from the boom by the gaffers tape. Five of them used at the same time are plenty strong enough to hold a piece of acrylic mounted onto a frame made of foam core, which is far heavier than the background material shown in the photo.





Photo #2
The white piece of foam core is free-standing thanks to the two binder clips attached to the bottom corners. This technique can be used with any material that is reasonably rigid.





Photo #3
This piece of foam core was scored on the rear and the two side panels remain attached. Those two panels stabilize the piece enough to make it free-standing, requiring no clips or clamps.





Photo #4
This is a piece of white presentation paper but the same concept will work with a piece of typing paper, which is even lighter. It can be stood on end as a free-standing device as shown in the photo or it can be laid on one of its sides. Very versatile in that regard.

[Shadowman]

Nice, and don't forget that a lens snoot can be made with a few desk accessories.

http://theslantedlens.com/2015/snoot-basics-2/

[rpcrowe]

Some other really handy accessories are: a lump of modeling clay (which will often work to hold your subject where and how you want it), Blocks of wood in various sizes - best if they are painted black - used to elevate your subject, A selection of sewing pins and thumb tacks can also come in handy.

Additionally a collection of swatches of various colors and types of material as well as a black and a white piece of flat acrylic to make a reflecting surface...
https://www.amazon.com/LimoStudio-Ac...hy+accessories

These are 20-inches by 20-inches...
https://www.amazon.com/Mekingstudio-...cessories&th=1

Acrylic jewelry display holders can be used for other than jewelry:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Black-5-Cl...0AAOSwsW9Yzp2j
and
http://www.ebay.com/itm/COUNTER-TOP-...cAAOSwnDxUdpzz

Gaffer's Tape is very handy because it will leave no residue.

The nice thing about tabletop photo accessories such as backgrounds, reflectors, lights, etc... is that they don't need to be large.

[Mike Buckley]

Gaffer's Tape is very handy because it will leave no residue.

I've learned recently that it leaves residue if you leave the tape on too long, perhaps days or more. Notice the residue on the binder clips in the first photo of the thread. All of that residue is from gaffers tape.

[rpcrowe]

I didn't realize that gaffer's tape would leave residue if left adhered to a surface for a long time. Gaffer's tape has always been a short-term fix for me from the first tine I used it to tape up Lowell Light sockets with PAR-38 lamps; on walls and various other strategic locations when doing location lighting for cinematography. BTW: the PAR-38 lamps were boosted up to 3200K by using a very heavy and very bulky transformer.

We shot with ISO 25 film so we needed lots of light. Life is so much easier for photographers and cinematographers now days...

Here are a lot of things which can be handy for tabletop or product photography... Of course, you would need room to store this stuff. A portion of a garage set aside for photography would be ideal. I like an area in which I can block out ambient light so I only have to worry about my photo lighting...

CLEANING/DUSTING EQUIPMENT AND SUPPLIES
One of the most important things in product or tabletop photography is to have your product and its surroundings look clean and dust free.
Hand vacuum
Blower (rocket bower, rubber syringe blower)
Camel’s hair brushes (various sizes)
Endust or similar spray
Glass cleaner or similar
Microfiber cloth

PLACING ITEM WHERE AND HOW YOU WANT IT
Double stick tape
Double stick mounting foam tape
Gaffer’s tape
Sewing pins and thumbtacks
Chain link fence ties (6.5” x 11 Gauge aluminum) great for bending into shapes to support items
Door stops rubber - good for placing item at an angle
Modeling clay
Wooden blocks of various sizes – to elevate items
Binder clips used to support foamboard

BACKGROUNDS AND BASES ON WHICH TO DISPLAY ITEMS
Remnants of various fabric material – different colors and types
Tile (wall and/or floor) various sizes, colors and types
Various construction stone pieces plus some photogenic rocks and stones
Wood paneling or plywood of various types and sizes
Pieces of wood from tree with bark attached
Pieces of driftwood
Construction paper – various colors
Burlap - various colors
Carpet demo pieces

REFLECTORS AND FLAGS
Various mirrors of different types, sizes and shapes
Foamboard
Cinefoil
5-in-1 Reflector kit

If I were going to shoot a lot of images for eBay, I would use a light tent. A tent gives fairly decent basic shadowless lighting and can be a very fast way to shoot multiple items. I would not try to fabricate one when I can purchase a folding tent with a selection of background colors this cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/Photography-S...ct+photography

A benefit to a light tent is that the tent usually has a front flap with a slit to stick the lens through. This prevents the reflection of photographer and camera from appearing on highly reflective surfaces like stainless steel...

I would use some type of color checker or white balance tool like the WhiBal G7 Card: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...m=Y&sku=768396

[ST1]

Mike thank you so much for posting these pictures and compiling the explanation.
Hopefully others may add to it as John and Richard already have.


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[rpcrowe]

This is not a "simple" tool nor is it particularly "inexpensive". However if one had the space to leave it set up, it could be a handy thing to have. Especially since you can light your item from below

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Specialty-Ph...%257Ciid%253A1

I think that it might be easy to fabricate one of these but, you may end up spending more money on the parts than the table costs.

[DanK]

Thanks for the suggestions. I think I will get a boom like that. Where did you get it?


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[Mike Buckley]

The company that I bought the boom from went out of business but it's this boom.

Its pair of built-in spring clamps holds this reflector/diffuser.

If you don't need those built-in clamps, this boom, which has a 1-pound counterweight, is even less expensive. It has more moving parts, so it might be more prone to breaking down. Even so, if it falls apart you could replace it considering that two of them cost just a little more than the price of the other one.

Keep in mind that both booms require a light stand not included in the sale of the boom.

Are you thinking of demoting the laundry rack to the use of its original purpose?

[DanK]

Mike,

Thanks very much. Haven't figured out the disposition of the laundry rack


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[Manfred M]

I have a couple of arms like Mike has shown here, except mine are made by Lastolite. I primarily use them as scrim and reflector holders for my Lastolite scrim and reflectors. I also have a standard arm. mine happens to be made by Kupo, but there are lots of other manufacturers / distributors. It is a lot more solid and heavy duty, but is probably overkill for table top work.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ...rm.html?sts=pi

The one suggestion I would make to anyone who is considering using an arm to support things is that you consider investing in a c-stand, rather than a light stand for this type of application. They are more expensive than lower end light stands, but are also a lot heavier and more robust and are less likely to topple over. They are pretty standard in the industry of this type of grip support.

[Mike Buckley]

The one suggestion I would make to anyone who is considering using an arm to support things is that you consider investing in a c-stand, rather than a light stand for this type of application. They are more expensive than lower end light stands, but are also a lot heavier and more robust and are less likely to topple over.

I believe a C-Stand is complete overkill for the purpose of using the booms being discussed. The booms are designed to carry a load of only about 2 pounds, so a lightweight to medium weight light stand will certainly work fine, especially when weighted with a pair of sand bags hung over two of the legs and when placing the third leg directly underneath the boom. In the five years I've been using that kind of setup, I've never had anything tip much less fall over.

Considering that the least expensive C-Stand base and column sold by B&H costs about $100 and that their least expensive light stand costs about $20, the relative difference in price is considerable. I also prefer that a light stand when folded takes up less storage space than a C-Stand.

[DanK]

A very useful discussion. thanks to you both. I will bookmark this and come back to it in the fall, when I am again focused more on indoor work.

[Mike Buckley]

By the way, it's possible to suspend a camera overhead (above the subject) from a boom. It's especially helpful if the camera has an articulating LCD, as the camera may be higher than your head. Anyone interested in the parts that are necessary to attach the camera to the boom should get back to the thread. If there is interest, I will photograph them and even try to figure out the model numbers of the three parts. Alternatively, you could call B&H's video department as I did and ask them about the necessary parts.

[Manfred M]

Considering that the least expensive C-Stand base and column sold by B&H costs about $100 and that their least expensive light stand costs about $20, the relative difference in price is considerable. I also prefer that a light stand when folded takes up less storage space than a C-Stand.

Agreed Mike and frankly I do a very limited amount of table top photography these days.

Most of my light stands all cost me in the $100+ range, mostly because I do a lot of my indoor work with studio lights with light modifiers, which are too heavy for the low end light stands. I also prefer the air cushion feature because they do offer added protection when handling soft boxes on studio lights. I tend to sandbag these too.

My only "cheap" light stand is used exclusively when I use small flash (speedlights) and then usually only when I am traveling.

On the other hand if one is looking to expand beyond tabletop work, something more heavy duty is worth considering, given the extra flexibility the more heavy duty grip gear provides. This is especially true if one is thinking about shooting people. Light duty light stands are very easy to knock over and damaging equipment and my subject is something I prefer to try to avoid.

[ST1]

Mike in your photo number 1, you show binder clips hanging on to the boom using gaffer tape. You may be able to find similar zip ties (see link) in your part of the world which I think may be a a useful addition to your kit list. My primary use for them is in my fruit and vegetable garden to attach anti bird netting to frames. They have quick release button and are reusable.

https://www.harrodhorticultural.com/...s-pid7570.html


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[Mike Buckley]

Thanks, Peter! I'll keep that device in mind. Similar quick-release devices made of Velcro are also available. Both types can also be useful in wire-management of stored lighting gear. Indeed, sometimes the devices used to store the gear are just as important as the devices used to create the tabletop setup.