Old barn

[Evertking]

Got the kids in the van and took a ride and ran across this.

[Evertking]

I am starting to see the difference in a raw file edited and then a JPEG edited. The first picture was done in Lightroom from a raw file and the rest were jpegs done in Snapseed(the lazy way).

[lovelife65]

I'm a huge fan of old barns. #1 works better for me. I don't like the tree in the 2nd one... In this case I think I like color better. Maybe some more contrast with the B&W?

Nice work.

[LePetomane]

It's hard for me to decide between the color and B&W version.

[Stagecoach]

I am starting to see the difference in a raw file edited and then a JPEG edited. The first picture was done in Lightroom from a raw file and the rest were jpegs done in Snapseed(the lazy way).

Looking at the images edited in Snapspeed I suspect the results posted here are more to do with poor practice than the advantages or differences of using RAW.

The Snapspeed ones show considerable noise, posterisation and over-sharpening?

[Evertking]

Looking at the images edited in Snapspeed I suspect the results posted here are more to do with poor practice than the advantages or differences of using RAW.

The Snapspeed ones show considerable noise, posterisation and over-sharpening?

Thanks you. Yeah, my editing skills are almost non existent..lol
I'm learning Lightroom though.
So, am I wrong about the raw vs JPEG? Shouldn't, not the images here, the raw file end in better quality? I was reading that every time you open and close a JPEG it will degrade in IQ.
I have a question. When I finish with my raw file in LR and export the file, it's a JPEG and if I am not happen with the edit, it's better to just start from the raw file and not try and re-edit the JPEG, correct?
Also, when I metered for these, I held the meter parallel to the ground, about waist high and used the other hand the block the specular highlight from forming on the dome, I just simply shaded any hotspot.

[lovelife65]

Yes, it's best to go back to your LR library and start over with the raw file. You can fully reset it.

[mugge]

You are getting it right. Do try Nik Collection for editing as suggested earlier. You will find it worth while.
Cheers Ole

[Stagecoach]

Thanks you. Yeah, my editing skills are almost non existent..lol
I'm learning Lightroom though.

Ok.

So, am I wrong about the raw vs JPEG? Shouldn't, not the images here, the raw file end in better quality?

There is no right/wrong with respect to RAW vs JPEG, each has it's purpose and 'end use' can play a part in that.

At the sizes you have posted here it would be impossible () to tell the difference between a well exposed image PPd from the RAW or Jpeg files undertaken by a competent user.

As for which to use, my personal view is use the RAW always unless I have a 'specific' reason not to, the RAW has more data that can be manipulated/pushed 'if' needed.

I was reading that every time you open and close a JPEG it will degrade in IQ.

This has been debated at length and technically that may be the case, but if it refers to you needing to open and close a Jpeg say 200 times before loss of IQ can be seen on a 36 x 24 inch image how many of us really need to worry about it

I have a question. When I finish with my raw file in LR and export the file, it's a JPEG and if I am not happen with the edit, it's better to just start from the raw file and not try and re-edit the JPEG, correct?

I do not use LR although I have it so I do not know what the options are but I would suspect the answer is to save it in a format such as TIFF.

Also, when I metered for these, I held the meter parallel to the ground, about waist high and used the other hand the block the specular highlight from forming on the dome, I just simply shaded any hotspot.

Personally I can not see a reason for using a hand held meter on this scene, the way you describe how you used it seems very hit and miss, but you also do not say how you used that information the meter gave you and if the result was good. But, I'm sure that a hand held meter in the hands of an expert could give the data that would allow him to shoot that perfect exposure.

So, how would I deal with this scene. It has 40% sky which is the brightest area and I would not want that to be blown out. With my camera in matrix metering I would take the shot, look at the histogram and adjust my exposure if necessary to push the histogram to the right without clipping. Blinkies can also be used. With the DR of my camera and working in RAW I know that I am going to be able to lift the shadows as needed in post.

[Evertking]

I have learned all I have from YouTube. Joe Brady is the reason I use a handheld meter and the reason I metered the way I did. Just how I learned it. I have been under the impression that a handheld meter is far more accurate than the reflective meter.
I have read little on ETTR and to be honest with you, I'm not sure how to even get to the histogram on my camera.. yep
But you want to keep the exposure to the right and push it as far as you can without blowing out the highlights.
Now, I know this is probably a silly question, but how can I determine the DR of my camera. Just a Google search? It's based on stops right?
Also if I'm using ETTR is just basically slowing my shutter till I get to that spot, right?

These were shot at 1/400 , iso 200 and f11

[Stagecoach]

I have learned all I have from YouTube. Joe Brady is the reason I use a handheld meter and the reason I metered the way I did. Just how I learned it. I have been under the impression that a handheld meter is far more accurate than the reflective meter.

I'm sure a hand held meter can be more accurate than the camera one if used correctly.

I have read little on ETTR and to be honest with you, I'm not sure how to even get to the histogram on my camera.. yep

That would bring me to ask, how you have determined to date that the info from your hand held meter and what you do with that info has given you a satisfactory result in the field. It may be that you have relied on the blinkies alone instead?

But you want to keep the exposure to the right and push it as far as you can without blowing out the highlights.

Basically.

Now, I know this is probably a silly question, but how can I determine the DR of my camera. Just a Google search? It's based on stops right?

Here's a link. WARNING !!!!!! do not look at it if you are one of those that will now immediately compare it with something else on the market and think I could get a better spec to help my pictures

https://www.dxomark.com/Cameras/Cano...--Measurements

Also if I'm using ETTR is just basically slowing my shutter till I get to that spot, right?

Or raising ISO, or opening aperture.................

[Wavelength]

I like the first for its colors and composition; the third one is also classic; while the barn is partly hidden by leaves, it makes the image incomplete, i feel

[Shadowman]

Nice efforts.