Panning Dogs

[Stagecoach]

Thanks, will check them out

There's also a number of slow motion videos that are worth watching as they clearly show the best timing for the shot. It's a given that the best chance of getting a dogs head sharp is when it's at the top or bottom of its movement, it needs good manual timing

Here's one video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CoL8Gtvxfl0

[george013]

Bill,

I just saw your post. I do understand what you write and I think it's the right approach. But Arjun is trying to get a blurred image with only a small part sharp, in this case the eyes. I personal think that's a to small object and would prefer the head. A faster shutter speed will also decrease the wanted effect. I like the idea.

George

[rpcrowe]

Jack Russell Terriers are an amazing breed. I have one that is extremely gentle and who loves all people and is friendly to all other dogs.

However, should a vermin like a field rat, squirrel or rabbit venture into her domain; her terrier instinct locks in and she is a dedicated killer.

As far as a long legged sight hound's movement goes, see this greyhound video clip. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wtuZzeulmI

I placed the cursor on he dog's back and noticed that there was very little bobbing up and down...

[Arjung]

Jack Russell Terriers are an amazing breed. I have one that is extremely gentle and who loves all people and is friendly to all other dogs.

However, should a vermin like a field rat, squirrel or rabbit venture into her domain; her terrier instinct locks in and she is a dedicated killer.

As far as a long legged sight hound's movement goes, see this greyhound video clip. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wtuZzeulmI

I placed the cursor on he dog's back and noticed that there was very little bobbing up and down...

Thanks Richard, JRT's are superb.

I did go through the link you suggested. Near the top of the shoulders is an area where there is least movement. Now to figure how to translate that into taking sharp slow shutters of the face which bobs is even more difficult.

I guess the way to look at it is if you panning technique is right, the top of the shoulders should be sharp. If your lucky you may get a few sharp shots of the face when the head is moving at a slightly faster or similar pace to the shoulders

[William W]

. . . I shoot in burst mode with continuous focus
. . .
I have been experimenting with pans and motion blurs with dogs for a few days and am trying to figure out the ideal shutter speed to pan. What I have learnt is there is no ideal shutter speed to pan at, it depends on the subject movement and your distance from the subject and how much blur you would like to create.As you drop shutter speed, getting a decent image is more difficult. When you do get a good image, the image is likely to be stunning
. . .

Hi,

Curious?

Is there a particular reason that from the responses to this conversation you seem to be concentrating on one variable (i.e. finding the correct shutter speed) and seem resistant to the idea of using Single Shot, learning and following the rhythm and the beat of the dog's motion; using a shorter focal length and a lower camera angle and factoring the importance of the ratio of: Camera to Subject::Subject to Background distances?

WW

[Arjung]

Hi,

Curious?

Is there a particular reason that from the responses to this conversation you seem to be concentrating on one variable (i.e. finding the correct shutter speed) and seem resistant to the idea of using Single Shot, learning and following the rhythm and the beat of the dog's motion; using a shorter focal length and a lower camera angle and factoring the importance of the ratio of: Camera to Subject::Subject to Background distances?

WW

Hi Bill,
When I started experimenting with panning my dog, I was focussed on shutter speed. I learnt that there is no ideal shutter speed to pan and distance to subject, etc. made a difference, which is what I had posted.

When I say I shoot in burst mode, I take anywhere from 1-3 shots when I feel I have got the animal tracked correctly. What I have not experimented with is a lower camera angle. I am sitting on the ground and handholding my camera at a dog which is around 10" in height. The only option to get a lower camera angle is to lie face down on the ground at the cost of mobility. Very difficult to pan.

I have not focussed much on the background as this is my experimental phase but do realize the implications of the subject's distance to the background.

The other things I have experimented on are humans walking and running, and cars / motorcycles on the road. The latter are relatively easy as there is no vertical movement.

I hope to put these skills to use when I go on my wildlife trips. Dusk & dawn are excellent times to pan animals when the light is low.
Arjun

[george013]

Hi,

Curious?

Is there a particular reason that from the responses to this conversation you seem to be concentrating on one variable (i.e. finding the correct shutter speed) and seem resistant to the idea of using Single Shot, learning and following the rhythm and the beat of the dog's motion; using a shorter focal length and a lower camera angle and factoring the importance of the ratio of: Camera to Subject::Subject to Background distances?

WW

The difference between swimming and little dogs is the frequency and the size of the motion. If that little dog runs I think a frequency of 10 times in a second is a close guess. How can one anticipate on e repetitive motion of 1/10 second? In swimming I would guess this is about 1s. And a longer motion.

George

[William W]

Briefly-

Laying on the ground is not the only method of getting a lower camera angle: being lower on an inclined area of land achieves that purpose.

It is understood that there is a difference in the motion of a swimmer and a small dog. (I am annoyed at self that I introduced swimming as an example of rhythmic motion - rather I should have just stated that Dogs running are an example of rhythmic motion.) I don't know the frequency of the beat of all the motions of a small dog's running movement.

My curiosity question was if these elements have been considered; analysed and the method attempted.

WW

[Arjung]

Briefly-

Laying on the ground is not the only method of getting a lower camera angle: being lower on an inclined area of land achieves that purpose.

It is understood that there is a difference in the motion of a swimmer and a small dog. (I am annoyed at self that I introduced swimming as an example of rhythmic motion - rather I should have just stated that Dogs running are an example of rhythmic motion.) I don't know the frequency of the beat of all the motions of a small dog's running movement.

My curiosity question was if these elements have been considered; analysed and the method attempted.

WW

Bill,
I totally agree with you on camera angles. I shoot wildlife photography and look for good camera angles by doing some of the things you mentioned. Unfortunately the park I visit is a flat piece of land with a reasonable amount of people. The background more often than not is cluttery. I take my dogs there and use this time to experiment with my camera and improve my composition. Animals in random motion are always a challenge for me. In fact I end up keeping less than 3% of my dog images.

You opened a Pandora's Box in understanding rhythmic motion. A hare has a very different motion from a cheetah. A cheetah stalking has a very different rhythmic motion from a cheetah chasing. Different types of antelopes have different rhythmic motions.

If I want to freeze a cheetah which can clock speeds of over 100km/ hour and use shutter speeds of 1/1000, chances are there will be some blur as the cheetah would have moved over 3" in that instance. Shutter speeds of 1/4000 - 1/8000 would be ideal. If the light is poor and you are unable to get high shutter speeds try the next best option - pan them. You have to be ready with your camera settings and be clear what you want to do in such an instance as the cheetah takes off in a flash. If you are not prepared (including looking through your viewfinder) chances are you will have no shot.

With wildlife photography it's difficult to understand rhythmic motion for each animal. The way I look at is I am prepared for my next shot in terms of exposure and aperture. When I get the animal my focus should be on the right composition (I hate cropping)

[William W]

Thanks.

As well as addressing my curiosity question, Post #29 provides more information, all of which is pertinent to a better understanding of your goals and your shooting situations.

WW