I totally agree with you George in terms of the "right colours", although I would prefer the term "accurate colours". To do this, I follow something that is referred to as a "colour managed workflow". This means a combination of software (including the computer operating system and editing tools), hardware and working environment. It also includes the weakest part of the link; my eyes.
Let me tell you what I do to ensure that my colours are accurate:
1. I use custom profiles for my camera. I have one generic "daylight" and one "generic" studio flash one that I use. I do make custom profiles for a specific shoot if this is necessary using my x-Rite ColorPassport with the associated profiling software. That way I can guarantee that the colours that my camera has recorded are accurately passed on to my editing software.
While shooting, I do monitor my histograms (the channel ones) to ensure that I do not clip any colour channels while shooting.
2. I use a pro level AdobeRGB compliant Benq SW2700 computer screen with a hood and a 10-bit workstation (AMD Radeon Pro WX 5100) graphics card. The drivers for this card are designed for colour accuracy rather than the office / gaming environments found on general graphics cards. The drivers are updated quarterly and I will install the newest graphics drivers as they become available. My computer screen is certified to be 100% sRGB compliant and 99% AdobeRGB compliant and ships with a certificate with plot from a high end photospectrometer test done on my specific screen. NOTE: Unless the specs on your computer screen state that it is 100% sRGB compliant, you can be sure that it is NOT. The majority of computer screens that are sold are NOT.
I have calibrated the screen with a x-Rite i1 Display Pro that writes the colour correction data directly to a LUT on the screen. Screen brightness is set to 100 candela / square meter (recommended is 80 candela / square meter to 120 candela / square meter). Measured contrast ratio (depends on room lighting) is 1300:1, where the recommended is anywhere better than 1000:1.
My workspace is an area that has constant light levels at all time. The walls in my workspace are a neutral gray colour. The light at my work surface is 40 lux (recommended is anything below 70 lux).
3. When I print, I have an Epson Stylus Pro 3880 Photo printer. I use Epson inks and use the manufacturer supplied profiles for that printer / paper combination.
The only "weaknesses" in my workflow would be my using the manufacturer supplied ICC profiles when I print, rather than custom profiles. At this time, I cannot justify the cost of purchasing a colour photospectrometer for the limited number of prints that I do. I would suggest that a custom profile in this operation might give me around a 5% accuracy gain in the colour accuracy in my prints; something that most people would notice. The other weakness would be that I do not use a colour viewing booth when I proof my prints; again, not something that I can justify the price of. I do use a viewing area that gives me diffuse, natural light in the 6500K (daylight range), so far as I can determine.
4. I have my eyes checked every 2 years and my optometrist has confirmed that I have good colour vision. If you are interested in seeing how good your colour vision is, try this test:
http://www.xrite.com/hue-test
I just redid the test. Can you match my score?
Nicely said, I can guarantee that the colours I see are accurate. Unless you have gone through a similar process, I would challenge you to say the same.
In my setup and workflow I can definitely answer that question with a resounding "YES!". Can you?
The editing tool I use (Photoshop CC 2018) does this for me, right down to the print, if I go that far. Again, that is why I use a colour managed workflow.
The screen driver and operating software using the workflow that I use guarantee that the colours are accurate. I have put time and effort (and money) into that so I can confirm this and expect I have done this to a higher level than most users.
Unless you do parts of what I have done; especially having a screen that is at least 100% sRGB compliant that has been calibrated and profiled using the appropriate hardware, you can't say that the colours you see are accurate.