I am up to microscope photography and as the following shot from Nikon Small World demonstrates it can be a beautiful art form.
I need to do some research about microscopes!
I am up to microscope photography and as the following shot from Nikon Small World demonstrates it can be a beautiful art form.
I need to do some research about microscopes!
It's not as restrictive or as "equipment dependent" as microscope photography. A good macro lens and a set of bellows or tubes will give high quality images. A very expensive microscope and attachments will be necessary to give equal quality images.
Bellows = continuously variable extension tubes.
Brian...
Here's a rig you might find out whether you like this genre before you put a great deal of money into it...
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/con...m=Y&sku=917588
Here's a review from PC Magazine:
https://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2486975,00.asp
Here's another fun possibility which is within a relatively reasonable price and is available for Sony...
https://www.adorama.com/mtk20mf2sa.h...tegoryID=60933
Here's a review
https://www.digitalrev.com/article/z...per-macro-lens
4:1 or 4.5:1 could be a fun lens to play with...
Another old fashioned way to get super high macro imagery on the cheap is to use a reversing ring with a old 28mm lens with manual f/stop adjustment. You can get one of these lenses used for $10-40 and a reversing ring is under $20 on eBay...
https://petapixel.com/2015/05/01/sho...reversed-lens/
One thing about reversed lens photography is that once you have the lens attached to the reversing ring (just screw the ring into the filter thread of the lens), it is every bit as easy to set up the kit as mounting your 90mm macro on your camera...
Here's a great blog on macro photography by the author of the above article...
http://www.chasingbugs.com/
Last edited by rpcrowe; 17th January 2018 at 04:37 AM.
Heres another:
https://photographylife.com/hand-hel...up-photography
I suspect that a focusing rail might be a good addition to your kit. The focusing rail can help you with the minute back and forth (some rails also have lateral movement) movement of camera and lens to help place the camera/lens in the right spot and to help you focus and focus stack.
I use a Minolta rail which I purchased many-many years ago.
It is a basic rail and has only fore and aft movement. On the other hand, it is built like a tank and can give solid support to a full frame camera and macro lens with ring flash attached.
The important thing about a focusing rail is that it can mitigate much shaking of a person's hand. You move the camera by turning the large knob and then can lock the camera down using the small knob. If you need a 5 mm correction, it is far easier to do this with the rail than to try to adjust the entire tripod head.
The advantage of having a rail with lateral movement is that you can make the tiny left to right adjustments you might need using a knob rather than having to move the entire tripod head. That would be a lot easier if your hand shakes. This is an example of a sturdy looking rail with fore and aft as well as lateral movement on eBay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Velbon-...oAAOSwzppaMr6f
I have an Arca clamp on my tripod head and I use a long Arca base plate attached to the focus rail so I can achieve left to right movement without having to move the tripod head.
Last edited by rpcrowe; 18th January 2018 at 12:31 AM.
Brian,
I have also been thinking about taking the plunge into micro(scope) photography. However, I think that the first questions are:
1. What is the maximum magnification in your shots now? The maximum your lens can do without additional equipment is 1:1. Are you up to that yet?
2. If so, how much more magnification do you want? I don't know what kind of flower is in the photo you linked, but I wouldn't be surprised if that is 2:1 or possibly 3:1. For example, I don't recall the specifics of this, but I know it is not more than 2:1:
You don't need a microscope for that. A set full set of Kenko tubes will get you roughly 2:1. (The precise magnification depends on the actual focal length at MWD, which will be less than the stated focal length.)
So an easy first step would be to add tubes to what you have and explore the world at 1.5:1 and 2:1. Then think about more equipment if you want to go smaller yet.
Re a rail: I don't use one for stacking, but I do use one to help position the camera. At high magnification, even small changes in the camera's position matter, and it is very hard to get it where you want it without some mechanical help. I use a rail for forward/backward positioning and a geared tripod head (specifically, a Manfrotto Junior geared head) to handle angles. However, the geared head is both heavy and expensive, and I don't know whether there are decent cheaper alternatives.
Dan
Brian, I'd agree with Dan that you might find 'ultra' macro a better option than photomicography.
I would bring a 'master' of the genre to your attention.... Levon Biss.
http://https://www.levonbiss.com/blog/
I was lucky enough to get to his 'exhibition' at the Oxford Museum of Natural History a year or so back and his images were amazing.
His rig was somewhat special... Nikon D810 with a 10x microscope objective attached to a 200mm prime lens.
He then took up to 8000 images across each section of the target insect and then combined image groups to create tiles using stacking techniqes. Finally he carried out a 'panorama' stitch of the tiles.
For the exhibition he had the insect specimens on display and prints up to 12 foot in height ... the detail was/is incredible.
You can see his images at the link below...
http://https://www.levonbiss.com/
There are plenty of articles on the web which explain how to set up a similar rig using microscope objectives connected to conventional prime lenses.
The two issues you will also need to resolve are how to 'step' your image in 3 planes (x,y,z) and how to get enough lighting to the subject.
Biss' solution is pretty extreme, but it is entirely feasible to set up a simpler rig.
Currently I have a number of 'large' insect carcasses, in particular a female cockchaffer about 3cm in size, which I aspire to try the tequnique on.
It seems to be relatively easy to acquire cheap microscope objectives from China via e-Bay along with appropriate adaptors, but I have set myself a challenge to get some Victorian antique objectives.
I've been hunting antique shops as the opportunity arose for about 9 months but no luck so far.
It's a kind of long term project, probably for the winter months .... knowing me, it will probably take until next autumn to have assembed everything I need ....
Please allow me to get more specific. A few days back I found this shot on the web:
Okay once again tiny pics isn't working but here's the link
It is taken at 2x so yes I don't need ultra high mag.
One of the reasons for considering a low powered microscope is that it is fully assembled. As clumsy as I can be I worry about changing a lens or putting in a card. the thought of having to assemble half a dozen bits and bobs every time i want to take a shot is daunting to say the least.
But i love the linked shot and I should dearly love a way to take one like it.
B.
[QUOTE=James G;702887]Brian, I'd agree with Dan that you might find 'ultra' macro a better option than photomicography.
I would bring a 'master' of the genre to your attention.... Levon Biss.
He is indeed the master
There are plenty of articles on the web which explain how to set up a similar rig using microscope objectives connected to conventional prime lenses.
The two issues you will also need to resolve are how to 'step' your image in 3 planes (x,y,z) and how to get enough lighting to the subject.
Biss' solution is pretty extreme, but it is entirely feasible to set up a simpler rig.
I've been hunting antique shops as the opportunity arose for about 9 months but no luck so far.
I searched EBAY (victorian microscope objectives) and found many possibiloites heres one link https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-Of-Anti...wAAOSwNchaIZzC
I may end up going down this path.
Dan, The magnification that will work for what I want is in the 2 to 4x range. Extension tubes and or bellows would seem to do that.
B.
Richard, a rail would be a needed part of the setup if I don't go microscope.
Between my Navy retirement and my final retirement I worked assisting people who had disabilities either get jobs or maintain the jobs they were working at. Often this would entail modifying the parameters of the job or finding work-arounds to enable the folks to do their work despite their disabilities.
I used to have a plethora of source material for gizmos and gadgets which would make tasks easier for people to do. I have no longer kept track of that side of my life.
One thing that might make loading memory cards in a camera easier is simply not to do it. Instead use a rather large capacity card and download directly from the camera to your computer, Not the quickest or most efficient way of downloading but, it would bypass having to remove the card from the camera, place it in a card reader and then do the reverse. You could leave the connecting cable plugged into the computer and then just attach it to the camera when you need to download.
A way to move the camera around on a tripod is to fabricate (or have it fabricated by those great Filipino carpenters) a wooden triangle with three casters or wheels. fabricate a way to attach the tripod feet to the corners of the triangle and you will have a dolly you can use to move the camea anywhere the ground is level...
Good luck my friend I can relate to your problems. Walking no longer comes as easily to me as it did when I was younger. My wife keeps telling me that I just don't realize how old and frail I have become
However, every time I wake up on the positive side of the grass, I know that it will be a great day
Richard I have never heard this before... 'the positive side of the grass' ... just made my day too!every time I wake up on the positive side of the grass, I know that it will be a great day
Brian,
I based my idea of the triangle dolly on this tripod dolly from Manfrottp.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Manfrotto-1...MAAOSwZrhaWiIG
Here is a link to some less expensive dollies.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Neewer-15-7...EAAOSw-itXqpg9