Looking for an adjustable continuous light for macro shooting (ring?)

[JBW]

I'm convinced that I don't want to use a flash for my macro work. But I would like to use a continuos light setup that would allow for creative lighting. Polaroid makes a ring light as does Sony.

The following shot was taken using a small low power flashlight with a very diffused light. The only problem is the second tripod or a really awkward mount to the camera.

[Shadowman]

Hi Brian,

Will the ring light as pictured in the link give you the illumination of the subject you think you need or do you think you need some rim lighting as well?

[JBW]

Hi Brian,

Will the ring light as pictured in the link give you the illumination of the subject you think you need or do you think you need some rim lighting as well?

I really don't know. But I'm hoping someone here will know

[Shadowman]

I really don't know. But I'm hoping someone here will know

In your title thread you stated "adjustable", what sort of adjustments do you think you'll need and can the ring light provide it for you?

[JBW]

In your title thread you stated "adjustable", what sort of adjustments do you think you'll need and can the ring light provide it for you?

left ~ right ~ both. Adjustable brightness both or either. The Sony;

'The Sony HVL-RL1 Macro Ring Light is a compact LED ring light that is specifically designed for macro shooting and working with close-up subject matter. The LED light source provides a constant, clear illumination of 700 lux at a working distance of 11.8" / 30cm for enhanced detailing of nearby subjects. The brightness of the light source can be dimmed between 10 to 100% and switchable modes enable full, right, and left illumination for greater control over the shadows.'

It sure sounds like what I need. And the working distance fits nicely

[Manfred M]

As I don't do macro photography, I can't tell you if these lights work for what you are planning to do or not.

What I do know is that continuous lights are generally used for video work, simply because the light output is not high enough to freeze action for still work. Camera mounted LED video lights are primarily marketed as fill lights for relatively close shooting. Don't forget a lot of people buy these cameras to almost exclusively to shoot video. Sony (and Panasonic) were major video camera makers for a long time before they got into still cameras.

I would be very suspicious of the Polaroid branded light as the specs do not list the lumen output. The Sony at least tells us it delivers 700 lumens (which is less than a 60W incandescent light bulb). Given the price difference I would suggest that the Polariod likely delivers a lot less light than the Sony, but I think some more research on your part would be warranted.

[DanK]

that continuous lights are generally used for video work, simply because the light output is not high enough to freeze action for still work.

Manfred beat me to it. The problem with most continuous lighting is the low light output. You have to freeze the bugs' motion either with a short shutter speed or a short burst of light (flash). If you rely on short shutter speeds, I doubt these lights will provide enough light to help much.

The only advantage I can see to these, compared with a flash, is lower weight--the Sony is about 100 g, vs. perhaps 300 for a mid-sized flash.

[JBW]

As I don't do macro photography, I can't tell you if these lights work for what you are planning to do or not.

What I do know is that continuous lights are generally used for video work, simply because the light output is not high enough to freeze action for still work. Camera mounted LED video lights are primarily marketed as fill lights for relatively close shooting. Don't forget a lot of people buy these cameras to almost exclusively to shoot video. Sony (and Panasonic) were major video camera makers for a long time before they got into still cameras.

I would be very suspicious of the Polaroid branded light as the specs do not list the lumen output. The Sony at least tells us it delivers 700 lumens (which is less than a 60W incandescent light bulb). Given the price difference I would suggest that the Polariod likely delivers a lot less light than the Sony, but I think some more research on your part would be warranted.

Freezing the action is not quite what I want. Just a fast enough shutter speed to give me a hope of an in focus shot when the breeze goes away. research for me starts with B&H and then moves into CiC.

[Manfred M]

Freezing the action is not quite what I want. Just a fast enough shutter speed to give me a hope of an in focus shot when the breeze goes away. research for me starts with B&H and then moves into CiC.

So you are looking for a focused shot with motion blur? Fast enough shutter speed to do what?

[JBW]

So you are looking for a focused shot with motion blur? Fast enough shutter speed to do what?

Let me try to state my needs one more time.

The shot at the start of this thread was shot with a shutter speed of 3.2 seconds with the aid of a low powered Akari flashlight model number ARFL 1711 ALP 15250 which comes with a neon like tube that gives off a nicely diffused light which was placed about 6 inches from the spider.

If I can get the same effect with a flash thats good too. But I want a soft light that will do what the flashlight does. if i could figure out a way to connect the flashlight to the camera so it illuminates the subject that would be good too. But then I'd need two connected and that would be difficult

[JBW]

Manfred beat me to it. The problem with most continuous lighting is the low light output. You have to freeze the bugs' motion either with a short shutter speed or a short burst of light (flash). If you rely on short shutter speeds, I doubt these lights will provide enough light to help much.

The only advantage I can see to these, compared with a flash, is lower weight--the Sony is about 100 g, vs. perhaps 300 for a mid-sized flash.

I shot the spider at the top of this thread at 3.2 sec. With the help of a low powered flashlight. I need some form of lighting that won't get tangled in spiders webs or scare the flies. Hence the ring light idea.

[JohnRostron]

Look at the Apututre/Amaran AL-M9 led light (link). I have a pair of these which I support by a pair of Wimberley Plamps clipped to my tripod.

John

[Dave Humphries]

Hi Brian,

I have one of these, it wasn't expensive, but it isn't bright either.

I hope (Amazon UK) link works in your part of world; if not, try looking for "Neewer Versatile Flexible Two Metal Tube Adjustable LED Round Light Flash with LCD Display for Macro Close-up Photography Lighting".

Unfortunately, a lot, if not all, of the reviews on that page DO NOT relate to the product shown (this is obvious for many).

It is continuous LED and the ends are positionable and angle-able on the goosenecks.

I haven't needed to do any macro since purchasing it, but given the dimness, I am expecting to need longer exposures.

The problem you may have with continuous light near your subject is that it may excite/disturb them, causing movement during multi-second exposures.

The thing I link also has a 'flash' mode, which is why I bought it, but sadly it is disappointingly implemented in my opinion, you see in practice, the limitation of LED lamps is the temperature dissipation of the LED, so if you run it continuously, you have to 'derate' it so it doesn't overheat, but if you 'flash' it, I'm sure you could run the LEDs briefly/intermittently at twice or even four times the continuous brightness, but they don't try to do that

They used to also sell a three headed version, but I can't find that now.
What I did find is a twin flash+one LED head, which is what I'd buy now, if I needed one, although it is over 10x the price

Hope that link works in your part of world; if not, try looking for "LAOWA Venus Optics KX800 Flexible Macro Twin Flash Kit".

HTH,
Dave

[Geoff F]

Looking through the suggestions here, it seems that Sony light is no longer available. All the others are variations of ring light flashes either fitted directly to the lens or on adjustable wire like arms. Some aren't usable for TTL flash shooting.

Sometimes when using a standard flash head I will fit a Lastolite Mini Apollo to act as a diffuser.

https://www.manfrotto.co.uk/lastolit...x/micro-apollo

In some ways this does help in that it gives a 'softer' looking white balance, helps to reduce harsh shadows and can enable closer lens to subject distance where the lens tip would cast a shadow.

But it isn't a miracle solution for all macro problems. For most of my macro work, where I am shooting at a distance greater than 12 inches I don't use this unit anymore. Much experimentation showed me that the benefits are reduced at greater distances. It will work with TTL or manual flash shooting. There may well be circumstances when this could be beneficial such as an additional fill flash unit for portraits etc but for general insect/flower work I eventually found the problems tended to outweigh the advantages.

I see that some of the previous outlets no longer stock this item, although alternatives are available.

For my macro work, I tend to shoot with a standard flash gun but always with some form of flash output compensation using TTL metering on manual camera settings. In fact I use this as my default method for all my flash work; unless circumstances suggest alternative methods. I don't do studio type work which involves shooting into reflective umbrellas etc.

Alternatively, for studio type work involving dead/inanimate objects including chilled moths etc I have a couple of daylight quality lights on stands so the light can be carefully controlled, including reflectors, and a long shutter speed can be used without any motion blur. However, even this set up doesn't solve all problems particularly with reflective insects.

But that obviously isn't practical for outside real life work. So Brian, if afraid there isn't any simple answer here. You are getting good natural light photographs at speeds which are well below what I would call minimal. As a general rule, I don't like going below 1/160 for outside macro work and that is with a tripod. Subject movement is usually a problem for me at slower speeds.

In bright sun shine, using flash is often the best alternative as it helps to balance out harsh shadows and over bright hot spot over exposure areas.

I know some people tape small LED torches to their flash head and turn the flash off, or have an accomplice to point the torches but that route isn't always possible.

[JBW]

Dave, Geoff, You have both come to the same conclusion: Sometimes this works and sometimes that works but there is never a setup that always works. Chris Connolly gets results that inspire me. His setup is worth emulating.

[rpcrowe]

You might peruse these macro lights...
https://www.adorama.com/l/?searchinfo=macro+lighting

Or these...
https://www.adorama.com/l/?searchinfo=led+video+light

[JBW]

Thanks Richard I shall

[JBW]

Look at the Apututre/Amaran AL-M9 led light (link). I have a pair of these which I support by a pair of Wimberley Plamps clipped to my tripod.

John

Sorry John, I did not ignore your suggestion and they are on my hmmmmm list.

[Geoff F]

I see that photographer, Brian, is also getting problems with reflective surface over exposure spots and difficult backgrounds.

[charzes44]

Brian, on Amazon (UK), I came across:
Neewer CN-160 Dimmable Ultra High Power Panel Video Light Kit, for £38.99 GBP. LED of course!
It specifies 660 lumens, and 900 lux at 1 metre.
Any help?