Originally Posted by
Geoff F
Several options here, Joe.
Firstly, does your editing software support layers?
If so, there are various options to consider but basically take a Raw image and edit it to suit, for example, the midtones. Save that edit, or transfer to your main editing window. Open the Raw file again and edit for the shadows/highlights and save or transfer the results.
If you are saving the edits, open them in the main edit window and arrange as layers. Maybe open them as 'Load Scripts' all in one go or copy/paste to get them into the main edit area as layers.
Once you have the different Raw edits arranged as layers, add a mask to each one. Pick one to be the base layer and place the other layers on top. Choose a mask type; for example, Hide All Mask. Use a suitable brush to paint over the chosen mask as required to gradually apply the effects on that layer. Use a low opacity brush and keep going over the same areas to slowly bring out the required changes. Vary the brush size as needed. For instance a large brush to cover the sky area in successive sweeps or a small brush to bring up little areas, such as faces etc.
But, there are many other alternatives for working on masks. A graduated mask similar to shooting with a graduated filter. Create a selection with the auto selection tool or lasso, etc. These will need to be feathered at the edges. Set the layer properties to show or hide selection. I sometimes use the auto select tool for selecting a whole sky then in the Layer Menu choose Reveal Selection.
It will take a bit of time to get familiar with all the masking techniques but eventually these become very useful editing tools.
However, there is a better method of creating your starting point layers if you are able to work with Smart Objects. From your ACR Raw Converter, make your first Raw edit and open as a Smart Object in you main edit window. Right click on the image Layer Menu box and choose 'New Smart Object from Copy' which creates a duplicate smart object. Double click on the thumbnail icon from that menu box and the duplicate image layer is returned to ACR for more editing.
None of these Smart Object edits are fixed so you can return the objects to ACR at anytime for changes to the edits. That way you can have two or three, or more, versions of the original Raw image to use as required by way of edited masks on the layers.
It works in a similar way to creating a HDR image, although not quite a true full HDR exposure so when possible it is best to shoot for bracketed exposures. But this 'mock HDR' can be useful when bracketed shots aren't possible, such as with moving images.
The various methods of achieving this form of editing may initially sound complicated but it should quickly become second nature after a bit of experimenting. I use something along these lines on most of my images.