Box of filters at an estate sale...

[rpcrowe]

I am drawn to estate sales but seldom purchase anything. However,I did purchase a shoebox box full of filters, this weekend, at a local estate sale for the grand price of ten U.S. Dollars. All the filters seem in great shape except the 77mm Tiffen GND which has a slight scratch.

The 77mm lot included: several B+W UV filters, a B+W polarizer, a Tiffen Soft FX-3 filter, two SUNPAK GND 2-stop filters, a Tiffen 2-stop gnd, two generic star filters, and two generic diffusers (one of which is listed as a wedding diffuser), a Hoya diffuser, and a generic linear polarizer, which I have read when combined with a CPL produces a DIY variable density ND filter (who knows about that one)

The 67mm lot included: Tiffen Softnet 3 diffuser, Kenko Softcross and Foggy filters

There is a 72mm B+W filter with a prism that stretches only halfway across the filter. The previous owner labeled this as a "speed" filter but, it may very well be some sort of closeup - bi-field filter...

There are also several color correction filters in various sizes and some 58mm UV filters which I gave to my neighbor who uses that size filter...

Some of these filters are junk and many, if not most, can be replicated in Photoshop PP but, it will be fun to play with them; for the price of a couple of Starbuck's Coffees...

[wilgk]

Nice surprise

[rpcrowe]

I was hoping to find a Tiffen Black Satin 1/4 or some other Tiffen diffsion filter in the 1/4 or 1/8 power. I like what these filters do to a female's skin while allowing the eyes to remain sharp. It seems like they can do a better job than is possible with Photoshop... Other diffusion filters are way too aggressive.

[NorthernFocus]

Now that's a way to get a deal on a set of filters. I like your reference to how many coffees they cost

[rpcrowe]

There was one filter that I neglected to mention simply because I didn't think that I would ever use it. It is a "no-name" Infra Red filter. I have used an old Canon D60 (not the 60D - the D60 is the second DSLR in the Canon series) modified for IR which allows me to shoot infra red without extremely long exposures. I shot this image using ISO 100 at 1/180 second # f/11...



However, I have been thinking that the drawback of shooting IR using a filter, the exceptionally long exposure times, might just become an asset in some occasions.

I have a hunch that a very long IR exposure of the ocean surf, especially if there are some billowy clouds on the horizon might just be fairly creative, along the lines of using a "Big Stopper" filter but, even more dramatic because of the exceptionally dark skies resulting from the IR exposure......

I will wait for a day when there are some decent clouds and when I have the time to travel to the coast (about 30-45 minutes away)...

[xpatUSA]

There was one filter that I neglected to mention simply because I didn't think that I would ever use it. It is a "no-name" Infra Red filter. I have used an old Canon D60 (not the 60D - the D60 is the second DSLR in the Canon series) modified for IR which allows me to shoot infra red without extremely long exposures. I shot this image using ISO 100 at 1/180 second # f/11...



However, I have been thinking that the drawback of shooting IR using a filter, the exceptionally long exposure times, might just become an asset in some occasions.

Doesn't sound right, Richard. Above, you told us 1/180 sec at f/11. Is that right, or is it a typo?

[edit] Had me confused there, I take it back; I guess you meant using an IR filter on an unmodified camera.

[rpcrowe]

Ted,

I used a modified camera to shoot the accompanying image using ISO 100, 1/180 second @ f/11.

I have not used the IR filter on a normal camera yet!

Using the IR filter on an unmodified camera, the exposure (guessing) should be around 4 minutes using ISO 400 at f/11 or 2 mins at f/8... That is where I would start...

[xpatUSA]

Ted,

I used a modified camera to shoot the accompanying image using ISO 100, 1/180 second @ f/11.

Thanks, yes, I read that but somehow connected it with last statement below the image.

I have not used the IR filter on a normal camera yet!

Using the IR filter on an unmodified camera, the exposure (guessing) should be around 4 minutes using ISO 400 at f/11 or 2 mins at f/8... That is where I would start...

I couldn't stand that at all! Fortunately, I can just pop out my camera's hot-mirror with my thumbnail; one of my Sigma DSLRs has it permanently out to save messing with it.

Nice shot, BTW, love the IR black sky.

[rpcrowe]

Ted, when you mention "I couldn't stand that at all!" I suspect that you are considering this for "normal" photography in which, I will admit, it would be just a big PITA.

Or you may have meant that needing to have a camera converted to shoot IR would be a lot more trouble than you go through with your cameras.

When using the Big Stopper or other ten-stop neural density filters, I would be are aiming an elongated exposure which does special things to water and to the clouds.

I would propose to use the IR filter in the same circumstances in which I might select a Big Stopper or even a more dense filter combination. I would expect that the quality (sharpness especially - I can work around color balance) of the cheap (I assume) no name filter will not be all that great. However if it gives me the effect that I expect it will, I can always purchase a better quality IR filter later on.

[xpatUSA]

Ted, when you mention "I couldn't stand that at all!" I suspect that you are considering this for "normal" photography in which, I will admit, it would be just a big PITA.

Exactly, Richard, if I didn't have the Sigmas where the hot mirror can be popped in or out at will, I would either get a camera converted or not bother.

Or you may have meant that needing to have a camera converted to shoot IR would be a lot more trouble than you go through with your cameras.

Well that too but I wasn't crowing about the Sigmas versus other cameras.

When using the Big Stopper or other ten-stop neural density filters, I would be are aiming an elongated exposure which does special things to water and to the clouds.

I would propose to use the IR filter in the same circumstances in which I might select a Big Stopper or even a more dense filter combination. I would expect that the quality (sharpness especially - I can work around color balance) of the cheap (I assume) no name filter will not be all that great. However if it gives me the effect that I expect it will, I can always purchase a better quality IR filter later on.

Understood. I'm jealous about all those 77mm's you bought. My main lens just happens to be 77mm filter size ...

[Shadowman]

Although I have a set of ND filters, would love to have another set fall into my bag, nice catch.

[rpcrowe]

I am going to give some of these filters (especially the star and diffusion filters at night) a workout at the San Diego County Fair. Unfortunately the Fair doesn't allow tripods which, due to the massive crowds could be a safety factor. I have to check if they allow monopods.

There are two Photo Days scheduled in which there is a contest for images shot. I won't attend on these days because the Photo Days take place on Saturdays and Saturday nights have the most crowds...

[rpcrowe]

I just watched the movie, "Darkest Hour: and noticed that they used diffusion filters to a great extent. I don't know if I am oversensitive to the using of diffusion filters since I have been studying them but, these filters seemed to be "over used" in that film...

I am wondering of one could achieve the same look in Photoshop when doing still photography?

[Manfred M]

I just watched the movie, "Darkest Hour: and noticed that they used diffusion filters to a great extent. I don't know if I am oversensitive to the using of diffusion filters since I have been studying them but, these filters seemed to be "over used" in that film...

I am wondering of one could achieve the same look in Photoshop when doing still photography?

Richard - I haven't seen the movie, but have watched the trailer. What strikes me about the scenes is the level of colour grading used. I suspect that might be what you are referring to as "diffusion filters".

Photoshop has colour grading capabilities for still images; the functionality can be found in two places:

<Image> <Adjustments> <Color Lookup> and under the <Layer> <New Adjustment Layer> <Color Lookup>.

I personally prefer using the Adjustment Layer approach as one can vary the opacity and blending mode for a much wider variety of effects / impact. The adjustment layer supports layer masks, so the grading can be applied locally. I've seen some experts use several adjustment layers where they use different Lookup Tables (LUT) for different overlaid effects. Third party developed LUTs can be added to the ones that ship with Photoshop (these can be compatible with other editing software including video editing and compositing software).

Here's a screenshot of the relative functionality:




Here is a "before" image:





This is the colour graded image shown in the screen shot.

[rpcrowe]

Thanks for replying... BTW: I love the above image with the two women walking...

Manfred, you are certainly correct about color grading. In fact it seems like color grading is really in vogue for movies these days.

However, what I was referring to is the heavy haze, in "The Darkest Hour", surrounding the highlights in many of the shots. This is especially true when there is a beam of light (such as light flooding into a darkened room from a window). The diffusion is so heavy at times that it looks like the scene had been shot through a cloud of dust!

BTW: That was a pretty decent film although some liberties were taken with the historical accuracy...

[Manfred M]

However, what I was referring to is the heavy haze, in "The Darkest Hour", surrounding the highlights in many of the shots. This is especially true when there is a beam of light (such as light flooding into a darkened room from a window). The diffusion is so heavy at times that it looks like the scene had been shot through a cloud of dust!

In current film making, these special effects are often applied through the use of compositing software. Adobe After Effects is the best known tool to create and integrate these types of effects. I've used this software for green screen work as well as applying special effects into some videos I've made.