Photography from a Helicopter

[markjass]

I have been saving for ever and am nearly there. I want to charter a helicopter for a short photographic trip in the next couple of months. It is early winter here in New Zealand. The highest mountains in the area are 2500 -2700 meters. The tops are going to be covered in snow and the braided river valleys are quite narrow. If you are a Lord of the Rings fan the area is where Edoras was (Mt Sunday). What settings should I us on my camera (will have to take photos through the window) and would you go with a 24-70mm lens or 70-200.

[Shadowman]

That's got to be a tough assignment unless the windows are clear or the doors off, check out this article regarding camera settings. I didn't see any mention of WB so if there is snow on the caps take that into consideration. Additionally, depending on how long the flight is and if weather conditions are favorable consider using a cpl for a more interesting look, might want one that is tethered to the lens so you aren't fidgeting with it.

https://www.the-digital-picture.com/...otography.aspx

[Dave Humphries]

I cannot determine/remember whether you are a Nikon shooter or Canon.

If Nikon, and if your lens(es) have VR, the "Active" mode is supposed to be better at removing vibrations.

I assume you'll shoot RAW, or RAW + jpg.
If your camera has two card slots (and no shortage of space), use both.

Enjoy yourself,
Dave

[Manfred M]

The biggest issue with this type of shooting that I have had in this type of situation are the reflections off the windows. I'm thinking about shooting out of an airplane window, not a helicopter one, but the issues will be similar. The main issue I found was that there were complex reflections from the windows, which will be even worse in a helicopter as light will be entering from multiple sides . The glass (which is actually plastic, not glass due to weight considerations) can be dirty, scratched, etc, so any shots will have lower contrast due to both of these factors. Just remember all those "pro" shots you see from a helicopter are taken through an open door with the photographer and videographer and their gear harnessed and strapped in so nothing can fall out.

A polarizer is going to make things worse. The aircraft windows are laminates using different resins that are sandwiched together. I shot this image of Montreal's Olympic stadium through an airplane window using a polarizer; look at the colour banding that resulted.

[Ken MT]

I analysed a fixed wing photography trip over the local township. The focal length ranged from 24-105mm on a full frame camera, but the majority of images were in the 24-70mm range. The main problem that I had was reflection of the inside of the aircraft on the window. Possibly a flexible rubber lens hood would have allowed me get closer to the window and reduce the problem. A typical photo was at 55 mm at 1/1000 sec at f4.0 (tinypic not working for me at present)

[William W]

What Camera?
What Lenses?
Will you be sitting directly next to the window?

WW

[rpcrowe]

I have a few hundred hours shooting from various helicopters from large to small.

One of the greatest problems you can have are the vibrations (this is especially true in a hover but applicable at all times).

Use your body to isolate the aircraft vibrations from your camera. Don't touch any part of the helo with the camera or with the hands/arms holding the camera. Also, when sitting in the helo, don't rest your elbows on your knees because that will give the vibrations a straight shot from aircraft to camera.

It is critical for top notch imagery to shoot with the window open or door off. Much of my shooting has been done from a UH1B helicopter with the door open. I would sit on the floor of the aircraft and brace my feet on the skids. However, I sincerely doubt that you will ever find an operator who would let you do that....

In non combat situations, I would use often a Nelson Tyler mount which looked like this (this is not me but, is the way I would shoot)...



Also I might use a Dyna Lens which was an early image stabilized unit which fit on the front of the lens of my 16mm Arriflex.

In combat situations, I would most often use a hand held 16mm Bell and Howell Filmo.



This was my favorite hand held, non-sound 16mm camera...

Shooting stills, I would mostly use a Leica M2 kit with 35mm, 50mm and 90mm lenses.

One thing to be cognizant of is to avoid having the rotor blades intrude into the top of the frame.

You have no worries about DOF so shoot at the widest aperture at which your camera produces good imagery (quite often this is one or two stops smaller than maximum aperture). My 70-200mm f/4L IS lens will give me excellent results even wide open... Also use an ISO which will give you decent imagery. Err on the side of a higher ISO... Better to have a sharp image with a little noise than a blurry noise-free image Since this is a one-time-event for you, I strongly recommend shooting with auto exposure bracketing. AEB and Auto-ISO is a good compromise.

Ensure that you have a secure place place for each piece of your gear. IMO a photo vest is great - mine has zippers, Velcro or snaps to secure all pockets.... No fun dropping stuff out of the helicopter. Dropping items on the floor and having to search for them is also a big PITA. Using a photo vest, ensure that you have a routine in placing each item in a specific pocket. My vest has so many pockets that it would be easy to lose an item and having to search throughout the pockets of the vest in order to find it...

I like to have a pair of cameras handy, one with a mid-range zoom and the other with a longer zoom. However, if I were going to shoot with a single camera, I would most likely choose a 70-200mm zoom lens on a full frame camera...

One reason I like a longer focal length lens is to keep the shadow of the helicopter out of my image (and the rotor blade out of he image). A lot has to do with whether you have control of when the helicopter is flying or if you are just a passenger along for the ride. It is great to have a live mike and headset to communicate with the pilot...

Most definitely use whatever stabilization your camera/lens has. I have found that I didn't need extremely fast shutter speeds. Around 1/1,000 second would usually be more than sufficient but, I have achieved decent imagery at 1/500 or even as low as 1/250 second. This would definitely be true if you have image stabilization...

If there is enough light, a "top line" circular polarizer will be an asset. However, never use a polarizer if you are shooting through a Plexiglas window - crazy moire patterns may occur. In fact, I personally would not pay for a helicopter, with the intention to get good images, if I could not at least shoot through an open window. Remember, when shooting out an open window, don't rest on the window frame because of vibrations... A lens hood is another item which may help you get the best imagery possible however, the combination of a lens hood and a CPL sometimes causes problems with rotating the polarizer...

By the way, if you are able to shoot through an open window or door, dress for the occasion. Even if it is toasty warm at sea level, it can get pretty chilly up in the air with a stiff breeze blowing through the open window or door...

It should be obvious and I shouldn't need to mention this nut, ensure that you are totally familiar with your camera/lens. It is frustrating to need to figure something out when you are in the air...

Have lots of fun and shoot a lot of pictures...

[markjass]

I started a photography project over 14 years ago. At the time I had no idea that it would become a project, let alone two linked projects. I visited some people who's farm runs to the edge of the Rakaia Gorge and took some pictures there. Over the next few years I visited the mouth of the river a couple of times and took more pictures. It was about 14 months ago that the idea of travelling the 150km up the river from the sea to as far up in the mountains as I could go and back down the other side. I did this over numerous trips and finally finished this last week. I have done a lot of reading about the area from a history aspect as well as read some Maori folklore about the area. I am going to put this project into a photo book for myself.

About 14 months ago I spent five days exploring the north side of the Rangitata River, which is also a braided river. Now I want to explore the south side of the river. Last week week the scenery in the Rakaia was stunning and I thought wouldn't be amazing to see it from the sky. I looked at my maps and 'ding dong' the head waters of the rives are closeish.

As the end of the road along the Rangitata is a historic sheep station called Mesopotamia. I called them today to find out about the condition of the unsealed road and public access to the station. While chatting to one of the family members he said he has been flying since 1992 and he flies hikers, skiers and hunters into the high country from his family's sheep station. He has a flown with some film makers as well. He can also take the door off at no extra charge. I would be a little apprehensive about that, but it seams to be the best thing to do. Also the route would be up to me. Obviously he knows the area better than most. He charges out at 1800 NZD (1250 USD) an hour or part hour; including tax (have been saving for a scenic flight in another are of the South Island). It is would be a little apprehensive about that, but it seams to be the best thing to do. Looking at my maps I realised that it would be possible to link the two valleys by chopper. It is a lot of money, but what a way to finish the project!

Thank you everyone for your comments. Richard you obviously have a wealth of knowledge and experience. Thank you for going to such lengths.

Over the years I have upgraded from a point and shoot, through compact to my Canon 6d. The two lenses I have (apart from my 14mm f2.4 and 24 mm f1.4– use them for astrophotography) are the cannon 24-70 f4 IS and the 70-200 f 4 IS. I have cpl's for the lenses.

[Ken MT]

example of a braided river (Waimakariri), taken with full frame at 55 mm at 1/1000 sec at f4.0.
(finally managed to upload)

[rpcrowe]

I would not even bother to take the 14mm or 24mm lenses. The 70-200mm would cover me as wide as I might want to get but, I would carry ye 24-70mm along with me anyway

Again, much of your success has to do with having control of the helicopters flight path - as far as safe flight goes.

If flying with the door open or off or a window open, try not to poke your camera and lens out to where it might be tumbled around in the slip stream

Being a Navy guy, it was always easy to communicate with the pilot using he terms port and starboard for the left and right as well as giving directions by using the clock dial analogy — you're at the center and each number between 1 and 12 is a direction.

Again, best of luck and have a great time....