Have I crossed over to the light side? Looking for a ring light flash

[JBW]

I don't know if i have crossed over but I' looking at the Metz Mecablitz ring flash foir my birthday present come September. Does anyone have experience with this ring light?

Does anyone have other suggestions for a Sony Alpha a68 Tamron 90mm 272E (55mm) combo?
Brian

[russellsnr]

Hi, Not with that ring light but I bought a Yongnuo Ring Fash and truth be told I could not get on with it, found I was taking 3,4,5 images before I could get a good exposure, maybe because they are a cheap option I don't no!! I suppose like most of our gear it depends what you will be photograohing with it? The other problem (if can call it that) is I also have a Tamron 90mm (Canon fit) if yours is the same the barrel moves back and forwards when you focus so of course so does the ring flash head.
Russ.

[Manfred M]

Ring flash, by itself, gives very flat and boring lighting. It is great for documentary photography, where this is what you want. If you want your images to look like mug shots or passport photos, go ahead. Great for scientific work, where this type of lighting is desirable. Not so much for fine art work, which is where your interests seem to lie.

I have a bit of experience with ring flash, as it was quite popular in portraiture work about 5 years ago, but it was never used as the only light source. It could be used as either a key light or a fill light, but always with another light source to ensure that the lighting was interesting. It gives funky "o" shaped catch lights in the subject's eyes.

Same concept as what you are looking in for macro work, but a touch larger.

https://www.paulcbuff.com/Flash-Unit...ringflash.html

[DanK]

This:

Ring flash, by itself, gives very flat and boring lighting.

When I started macro, I spent a lot of time following the postings of some truly superb macro photographers. None of them used a ring flash. All of them used rigs somewhat like the one I have often posted because I modeled mine after theirs. What Manfred wrote was their primary reason for not using a ring flash.

[odds]

I have a cheap and simple macro ring flash, and in general I agree with Manfred's comment: "flat and boring lighting".

If I understand what I read about the Metz 15 MS-1, the unit has two "lamps", one on each side. Their power ratio can be adjusted and their light can be directed more or less inwards by swiveling reflectors. Such asymetric lighting is not at all possible with my ring flash, and I am not sure if the "flat and boring" lighting comment also fits this Metz unit. Here is a link to a review by Bob Atkins: http://www.bobatkins.com/photography...z_15_MS-1.html

--
Odd S.

[rpcrowe]

The Yongnau ring flash also allows asymmetrical lighting by allowing you to adjust the power of either half of the ring independently of the other.

I have had no problems working with the Yongnau in TTL mode. The exposure was just fine.

However, you might get better results working with an off camera flash on a stand specially a flash that could be triggered from the camera. The Godox TT685S is a TTL flash that could be triggered from a Godox radio transmitter. The total for both units (USA prices) would be about $160 USD.

You could go less expensively if you chose the non-TTL Godox TT600 flash and the Godox transmitter, these two would cost you about 115 USD... For a total of about $130 USD, you could pick up a pair of TT600 flashes and use one as the master on your camera hotshoe and the other as a slave on a stand. That would allow some really creative lighting...

You could easily rig a light stand from PVC pipe or buy a cheepie eBay stand for about ten dollars. You could rig up a diffuser from some tissue paper.

[JBW]

I just had a chat with a B&H lighting expert. He suggested the Rotolight NEO 2 Led Light.

It's circular but not a ring light and does seem to cast a great shadow and pick up texture. Comments?

[Manfred M]

Brian - I'm not sure where you are going with all this. A ring flash and rotolight are completely different light sources and will do completely different things for your image making.

The question you need to answer is what issue are you trying to fix with this light source (hint - the rotolight is going to give you the same intensity of light output as a 75W tungsten bulb, so there are a lot less expensive approaches available to you). The flash will give you a burst of light that will freeze motion.

[JBW]

Brian - I'm not sure where you are going with all this. A ring flash and rotolight are completely different light sources and will do completely different things for your image making.

The question you need to answer is what issue are you trying to fix with this light source (hint - the rotolight is going to give you the same intensity of light output as a 75W tungsten bulb, so there are a lot less expensive approaches available to you). The flash will give you a burst of light that will freeze motion.

I want to be able to up the light in the garden and indoors so that i can keep my ISO at base and up my shutter speed to control for breezes. It needs to be camera mounted because of branches outside and limited space indoors.

[Manfred M]

I want to be able to up the light in the garden and indoors so that i can keep my ISO at base and up my shutter speed to control for breezes. It needs to be camera mounted because of branches outside and limited space indoors.

If you want to freeze action, then flash is the best direction. Continuous light is generally not powerful enough to freeze motion unless you are right on top of the subject.

[loosecanon]

I have had no problems using the yougnuo flash, canon ttl II as fill in for macro. Surprisingly powerfull unit, and takes canon battery pack for quick recycling.

[JBW]

If you want to freeze action, then flash is the best direction. Continuous light is generally not powerful enough to freeze motion unless you are right on top of the subject.

Which is why I want a 2 in 1. Sometimes I will want to freeze sometimes just to bring out shadows and textures.

[Manfred M]

When I look at the Rotolight image mounted on a camera, my main concern would be the ability of the light to illuminate your subject without the lens casting a shadow on it, especially for the true, close-up macro work. That is the primary reason that the ring flash is designed as it is; getting the light onto the subject cleanly.

For the closeup work, how wide will the light throw? I don't see any information on the B&H site spec that covers that aspect of the unit. You obviously want the scene lit as a "spotlight" on just the subject and rapid fall-off is not going to make for a particularly strong image. For most "normal" shooting, I would be concerned by the light output of the device, but as you are primarily looking at closeup shots, this is definitely less of a concern.

The other concern that I would have is the direction of the light. Being hot shoe mounted, the light will be close to being on-axis to the subject. Flat, boring light is probably not what you are after, but that is what any light positioned on the hot shoe is going to give you. Try the built-in flash on your camera to see how it performs as this will give you some indication as to what a hot shoe mounted flash will do for your image making.

[JBW]

When I look at the Rotolight image mounted on a camera, my main concern would be the ability of the light to illuminate your subject without the lens casting a shadow on it, especially for the true, close-up macro work. That is the primary reason that the ring flash is designed as it is; getting the light onto the subject cleanly.

For the closeup work, how wide will the light throw? I don't see any information on the B&H site spec that covers that aspect of the unit. You obviously want the scene lit as a "spotlight" on just the subject and rapid fall-off is not going to make for a particularly strong image. For most "normal" shooting, I would be concerned by the light output of the device, but as you are primarily looking at closeup shots, this is definitely less of a concern.

The other concern that I would have is the direction of the light. Being hot shoe mounted, the light will be close to being on-axis to the subject. Flat, boring light is probably not what you are after, but that is what any light positioned on the hot shoe is going to give you. Try the built-in flash on your camera to see how it performs as this will give you some indication as to what a hot shoe mounted flash will do for your image making.

Fair enough. I really don't like the on camera flash.

Do you have any suggestions for a twin flash on spread arms set up for my camera.

[JBW]

When I look at the Rotolight image mounted on a camera, my main concern would be the ability of the light to illuminate your subject without the lens casting a shadow on it, especially for the true, close-up macro work. That is the primary reason that the ring flash is designed as it is; getting the light onto the subject cleanly.

For the closeup work, how wide will the light throw? I don't see any information on the B&H site spec that covers that aspect of the unit. You obviously want the scene lit as a "spotlight" on just the subject and rapid fall-off is not going to make for a particularly strong image. For most "normal" shooting, I would be concerned by the light output of the device, but as you are primarily looking at closeup shots, this is definitely less of a concern.

The other concern that I would have is the direction of the light. Being hot shoe mounted, the light will be close to being on-axis to the subject. Flat, boring light is probably not what you are after, but that is what any light positioned on the hot shoe is going to give you. Try the built-in flash on your camera to see how it performs as this will give you some indication as to what a hot shoe mounted flash will do for your image making.

This sony dual rig might work but it is a tad expensive

[JBW]

The Yongnau ring flash also allows asymmetrical lighting by allowing you to adjust the power of either half of the ring independently of the other.

I have had no problems working with the Yongnau in TTL mode. The exposure was just fine.

However, you might get better results working with an off camera flash on a stand specially a flash that could be triggered from the camera. The Godox TT685S is a TTL flash that could be triggered from a Godox radio transmitter. The total for both units (USA prices) would be about $160 USD.

You could go less expensively if you chose the non-TTL Godox TT600 flash and the Godox transmitter, these two would cost you about 115 USD... For a total of about $130 USD, you could pick up a pair of TT600 flashes and use one as the master on your camera hotshoe and the other as a slave on a stand. That would allow some really creative lighting...

You could easily rig a light stand from PVC pipe or buy a cheepie eBay stand for about ten dollars. You could rig up a diffuser from some tissue paper.

I have my old tripod which could do well as a light stand. I can see this working indoors but it still beggars the outdoor question.

[Manfred M]

The Sony looks like a very talented unit, but looks rather awkward to use.

I still see many of the disadvantages of the other units you were looking at with the Sony, even though it looks like it is more flexible. I would hated to try to thread through branches and other growth with that rig. As I've said before, check with the experienced macro shooters on this site to see what they use and why they use it. I would hate to spend that much money for a rig that does not work the way you want it to.

Just as an aside, while it is at a larger scale, I use a flash on a light stand (with suitable light modifiers) and radio triggers in much of my indoor and outdoor work. Having a light that is independent of the camera lets me set the light exactly where I need it. That being said, it is a lot more work doing so, but if you ever watch commercial photographers in their work, this is how they get their results as well.

[JBW]

The Sony looks like a very talented unit, but looks rather awkward to use.

I still see many of the disadvantages of the other units you were looking at with the Sony, even though it looks like it is more flexible. I would hated to try to thread through branches and other growth with that rig. As I've said before, check with the experienced macro shooters on this site to see what they use and why they use it. I would hate to spend that much money for a rig that does not work the way you want it to.

Just as an aside, while it is at a larger scale, I use a flash on a light stand (with suitable light modifiers) and radio triggers in much of my indoor and outdoor work. Having a light that is independent of the camera lets me set the light exactly where I need it. That being said, it is a lot more work doing so, but if you ever watch commercial photographers in their work, this is how they get their results as well.

I did some studio work today. I managed to get the lighting i wanted with a flashlight and a desk-lamp. Absolutely agree about twin flashes being a tad awkward outside. I'm not even so sure i could handle the extra weight. As for packing around multiple tripods....