Panning Race Horses

[rpcrowe]

I would assume that you know this but, here are the parameters I work with to judge my shutter speed...

Your shutter speed to "stop action" depends on a few parameters:

1. Speed of subject's movement... that's a given faster moving subject needs faster shutter speed
2. Subject to lens distance... closer needs a faster shutter speed to freeze
3. Focal length of lens... crop factor not involved except to determine #2
4. Angle of view... a subject traveling across the frame needs a faster shutter speed than one traveling directly towards or away.

Finally:

The interior (I use that term for a lack of a better one) movement of the subject. As an example, a running dog is moving on several different planes at once, forward, up and down as it bounces and the with the legs moving erratically. This would require (when panning) a faster shutter speed than freezing a car which is only moving forward.

Most often, when shooting fast moving subjects, I also want to isolate them with selective focus. However, using a wider f/stop meshes perfectly with using a faster shutter speed.

Unless I am doing tests, I try to select a proper shutter speed and f/stop that I want (using manual selection for this) while selecting auto exposure. This automates my exposure by varying the ISO but leaves the important shutter speed and f/stop constant... Later Canon DSLR cameras (7D and later) work quite well with this technique while earlier Canon DSLR cameras have a lesser auto ISO capability.

[skitterbug]

Hi Richard - if you are asking me if I knew the parameters regarding panning, I'd say that I did not! In fact, after I read your post, I searched for articles about the subject of panning. I didn't have a clue what it really meant to pan or how it would be done. I know more now than I did. Also after reading what sort of technique needs to be used and acquiring the results that are wanted, I understand more about your photos and like what I see!

What I meant by what I've been trying to accomplish is showing a bit of blur in car tires or air plane propellers, etc. I haven't even attempted to pan - but it looks like fun and something I may try.

Thanks for the clarifications about shutter speed in regard to panning!

Have a great photo day!

I would assume that you know this but, here are the parameters I work with to judge my shutter speed...

Your shutter speed to "stop action" depends on a few parameters:

1. Speed of subject's movement... that's a given faster moving subject needs faster shutter speed
2. Subject to lens distance... closer needs a faster shutter speed to freeze
3. Focal length of lens... crop factor not involved except to determine #2
4. Angle of view... a subject traveling across the frame needs a faster shutter speed than one traveling directly towards or away.

Finally:

The interior (I use that term for a lack of a better one) movement of the subject. As an example, a running dog is moving on several different planes at once, forward, up and down as it bounces and the with the legs moving erratically. This would require (when panning) a faster shutter speed than freezing a car which is only moving forward.

[rpcrowe]

Panning is a great way to portray action in a subject - especially a car. If you used the highest shutter speed available and shot this car, it would not look any different from a car that was stopped on the track. I used 1/125 second shutter speed which froze the car but allowed the wheels to blur and allowed the background to blur from the panning...



It really helps being in a situation in which the subjects repeatedly pass you. That way, you can try a variety of shutter speeds.

I also recommend using burst rather than single shot shooting.

Many lenses have Image Stabilization with some having two (and even three types) of IS.

If a lens has only one type of IS, that is usually for shots of still subjects and it might be best to turn off the stabilization when panning.

If a lens has two types of stabilization which are probably indicated by the numbers 1 and 2; the #2 stabiization is for panning. It turns off the horizontal stabilization. Panning will confuse the horizontal stabilization it will try to stop the camera's movement left or right.

Some latest and top line lenses actually have three types of stabilization. Numbers 1 and 2, as described above, and a number 3 which is for erratically moving subjects. While you can see the effects of #1 and #2 stabilization in your viewfinder as you are shooting, you will not see the effects of stabilization version 3 because it turns on only at the instant of shooting.

The speed at which to shoot aircraft depends whether they have propellers or rotors or if they are jet powered. Planes that are jet powered can be shot at the highest speed available since, unless there are some earthbound objects in the background, there will be no difference in the look of the image.

This Blue Angel image was shot at 1/1600 second shutter speed...



However with aircraft that have propellers, it is better to shoot at a slower shutter speed so that the props are blurred as in this shot of a P-47 Thunderbolt done at 1/100 second...



If the shutter speed is too high, the propellers will seem frozen and look unnatural. I mistakenly shot this Red Bull Air Racer at 1/2000 second...



I shot this hydroplane racer at 1/3000 second since I knew that the wake and roostertail would give me all the impression of speed that I needed...



Same thing for this boat, the wake and spray portrayed the action and I did not pan... I shot this at 1/1500 second shutter speed...



Finally: I strongly encourage the use of TTL viewfinders rather than Live View for fast moving action subjects. I can spot the subjects better using TTL viewing and with the camera pressed against my face, my panning motion is a lot smoother.

[John 2]

……………………………… I think that I am going to use aperture priority and set up the ISO and aperture so that my shutter speed is about 1/125 second and then use auto exposure bracketing of + and - one stop which will then give me shutter speeds of 1/60. 1/125 and 1/250 second for each three shot burst. Using the AEB seems to be the best way to get a variety of shutter speeds, to blur portions of the frame and subject. I will see how the images come out and then increase or decrease my original shutter speed. :

One word of warning. If it's a bright day with say cumulus clouds that occasionally cover the sun (or is that just British weather) or if in panning, you might effectively experience a change light values due to the angle of the sun changing, aperture priority will raise the risk of your shutter speed moving outside of the range you have selected after you have set it. If there is a risk of that, another approach might be to carry out a few test shots to determine the best shutter speed and let the aperture take care of any variation in light. The only other consideration is DOF with a very long lens. Manipulating your selected ISO should allow you to keep that at acceptable values.

[joebranko]

Great shots and great description of the process

[rpcrowe]

John, Thanks for the information.

As far as DOF with a very long lens, I often shoot my 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II lens at f/5.6 (which is the largest aperture throughout the range of that lens.

I do this to get the fastest shutter speed combined with the lowest f/stop as well as to get a narrow DOF which will isolate my subjects. I like the ability to get good imagery from this lens wide open.

I try and pretty well succeed in staying cognizant of my exposure whenever I am shooting.

[skitterbug]

I agree with Joe - the explanation you've provided about panning, settings and technique are beneficial and well done! Thank you for taking time to explore how to do this type of photography!