Photos for critique

[Mare333]

Hello,
first of all hope everyone had great holidays. I am posting several photos for critique. I took a photo several weeks ago with the flash pointing straight at the subject and got a critique that there is harsh light which I agree with (image 1). So I got a softbox that attaches to the flash to diffuse the light. I did NOT use the umbrella since I photograph pets and they move around a lot so umbrella wouldn't cover enough space. So I used flash with the softbox attached to it. So the main goal with this for me was to diminish or even eliminate the harsh light which was the result of pointing the flash straight at the subject WITHOUT a softbox. I would appreciate your opinions and critiques of the images.
So the first image is the one without the softbox. The 2nd image is 55mm focal length, f/5.6 shutter speed 1/200 (just to cover my basis since pets tend to move a lot and I would need fast shutter speed to stop the motion even though in this case the subject was still. But I try to make it as much as possible similar to what I have to deal with at the client) ISO 100, flash in manual mode 1/2 power. The 3rd image is 55mm, f/5.6 1/200, ISO 100, flash in manual mode 1/2 power. The 4th image is 55mm, f/5.6, 1/200, ISO 100, flash in manual mode 1/4 power. Please let me know what you think, thank you very much.

[Shadowman]

Totally different looks, with the direct flash you can get some deep, rich colors especially if as you did having richly colored elements (furniture, fur, etc.). You can still use direct flash but could also bounce it off the ceiling or wall, so this might be a bit cumbersome with the built-in flash but there are modifiers available but if you purchase you probably won't use much. The other issue with direct flash is the red-eye effect, I don't see it in your captures but you were pretty close with the last image. You can freeze movement with the flash so you don't have to settle on 1/200sec for shutter speed.

[Manfred M]

Marianne - I see very little difference in the quality of light between the first image and the subsequent three images. It looks to me like you have a small, camera mounted softbox, so far as I can make out when I look at the reflections in the last image. How large is your soft box? I suspect it is fairly small as it produces "green eye", which tells me it was sitting quite close to the optical axis of your lens. By the way, "red eye" occurs in humans, not in dogs and cats (I have read that blue-eyed cats do show the red-eye effect).

The quality, i.e. softness of the light does not come about from the use of a softbox, but rather from the size of the light source relative to the size of the subject. A general rule I was taught when I took a studio lighting course was that in order to get good quality light from your key light, it had to be located no more than about twice the diagonal (on a rectangular softbox) or twice the diameter (on a circular softbox or umbrella), the light becomes hard quite quickly. A camera-mounted softbox is generally only good for closeup work of a small subject.

When I look at the images, the top one looks properly exposed, but the next three look a bit underexposed.

When it comes to shutter speed, so long as you are at or below the camera's synch speed, the actual shutter speed is not all that important in a fairly dark environment. The light from the flash is usually in the order of less than 1/1000th second, so the flash should freeze all motion.

How are you determining the correct power settings for your flash? Which flash unit are you using? I generally use a flash meter when using off-camera flash and use TTL metering when using bounce flash (i.e. having the flash reflect from a light coloured wall and / or ceiling). That turns those surfaces into large reflectors that will generally give you a very pleasing light, as long as they are not too far from the subject. Based on the four images you have posted here, an umbrella would have worked just fine as you can light the area where the cat is sitting. When I shoot with an umbrella, I generally shoot 100% manual mode. My large studio flash units have to be shot in manual mode. I don't use softboxes with Speedlights as they tend to absorb too much light with all the baffles inside them, although I know some people that do, but they generally use multiple Speedlights inside a larger softbox.

[Yuukon]

I am with Manfred on this one. I can see some harder highlights in the first picture, but other than that, the lighting doesn't change much.

When I take pictures of my cockatiel Coco I also use a speedlight, but I always make sure to bounce it off the white ceiling or white walls. I've managed to create pretty soft lighting that way. For instances this, this and this shot are all done with that technique. I don't know if you have a white ceiling or a white wall nearby that you could try but it might just work (you can click all three 'this' for a photo). I'm not sure which lens and other equipment you use, but what else could create softer light settings is to set your speedlight to its minimum. Especially when you're this close to the animal, it doesn't need to be on max speed, even when bouncing.

Hope this helps!

[Manfred M]

I am with Manfred on this one. I can see some harder highlights in the first picture, but other than that, the lighting doesn't change much.

When I take pictures of my cockatiel Coco I also use a speedlight, but I always make sure to bounce it off the white ceiling or white walls. I've managed to create pretty soft lighting that way. For instances this, this and this shot are all done with that technique. I don't know if you have a white ceiling or a white wall nearby that you could try but it might just work (you can click all three 'this' for a photo). I'm not sure which lens and other equipment you use, but what else could create softer light settings is to set your speedlight to its minimum. Especially when you're this close to the animal, it doesn't need to be on max speed, even when bouncing.

Hope this helps!

I'm not sure if the three links you have posted demonstrate flash in the same type of environment. It looks like the flash was more likely used as a fill light than a key light. Marianne is definitely using flash as her key light.

The three images appear to be underexposed and lack global contrast. Based on some of your other work, I would suspect that this might have been the effect you are after.

[Mare333]

Marianne - I see very little difference in the quality of light between the first image and the subsequent three images. It looks to me like you have a small, camera mounted softbox, so far as I can make out when I look at the reflections in the last image. How large is your soft box? I suspect it is fairly small as it produces "green eye", which tells me it was sitting quite close to the optical axis of your lens. By the way, "red eye" occurs in humans, not in dogs and cats (I have read that blue-eyed cats do show the red-eye effect).

The quality, i.e. softness of the light does not come about from the use of a softbox, but rather from the size of the light source relative to the size of the subject. A general rule I was taught when I took a studio lighting course was that in order to get good quality light from your key light, it had to be located no more than about twice the diagonal (on a rectangular softbox) or twice the diameter (on a circular softbox or umbrella), the light becomes hard quite quickly. A camera-mounted softbox is generally only good for closeup work of a small subject.

When I look at the images, the top one looks properly exposed, but the next three look a bit underexposed.

When it comes to shutter speed, so long as you are at or below the camera's synch speed, the actual shutter speed is not all that important in a fairly dark environment. The light from the flash is usually in the order of less than 1/1000th second, so the flash should freeze all motion.

How are you determining the correct power settings for your flash? Which flash unit are you using? I generally use a flash meter when using off-camera flash and use TTL metering when using bounce flash (i.e. having the flash reflect from a light coloured wall and / or ceiling). That turns those surfaces into large reflectors that will generally give you a very pleasing light, as long as they are not too far from the subject. Based on the four images you have posted here, an umbrella would have worked just fine as you can light the area where the cat is sitting. When I shoot with an umbrella, I generally shoot 100% manual mode. My large studio flash units have to be shot in manual mode. I don't use softboxes with Speedlights as they tend to absorb too much light with all the baffles inside them, although I know some people that do, but they generally use multiple Speedlights inside a larger softbox.

Thank you for such an insightful and helpful answer. I think that some of the difference of how the 3 images look as opposed to the first one (the one WITHOUT the softbox) is more profound when I review the images in Photoshop. I think some of the difference is lost here posting on the forum. I tried bouncing off the walls but got terrible color cast (the walls are beige in my apartment) and I was loosing too much light, the subject was not adequately lit. The ceiling is too high in my apartment and also when you are going to the client you don't know what color their walls are and how high their ceiling is. You can't rely on that, you have to be able to create excellent images regardless. Ideally I prefer to have the light off camera and use an umbrella, but I photograph pets and they tend to move around a lot so if I place the light on the lightstand and the pet wanders off and away the light on the stand will simply not reach the pet and the picture will be ruined. So this is my dilemma, it seems that I have to settle for the flash ON camera and use the softbox on the flash so that I can quickly follow where the pet wanders with my camera and light. Maybe you have some suggestions for this dilemma (other than bouncing that is) I would appreciate it. To be honest I am quite happy with the 3 images WITH the softbox. I think I'd be ok with presenting such images to the client. Oh, and it's true the flash will freeze the motion so I don't need shutter speed 1/200, thanks again for your input,
Marianne

[Mare333]

I am with Manfred on this one. I can see some harder highlights in the first picture, but other than that, the lighting doesn't change much.

When I take pictures of my cockatiel Coco I also use a speedlight, but I always make sure to bounce it off the white ceiling or white walls. I've managed to create pretty soft lighting that way. For instances this, this and this shot are all done with that technique. I don't know if you have a white ceiling or a white wall nearby that you could try but it might just work (you can click all three 'this' for a photo). I'm not sure which lens and other equipment you use, but what else could create softer light settings is to set your speedlight to its minimum. Especially when you're this close to the animal, it doesn't need to be on max speed, even when bouncing.

Hope this helps!

Thank you very much for your reply. Your birdy is adorable.

[Manfred M]

Thank you for such an insightful and helpful answer. I think that some of the difference of how the 3 images look as opposed to the first one (the one WITHOUT the softbox) is more profound when I review the images in Photoshop. I think some of the difference is lost here posting on the forum. I tried bouncing off the walls but got terrible color cast (the walls are beige in my apartment) and I was loosing too much light, the subject was not adequately lit. The ceiling is too high in my apartment and also when you are going to the client you don't know what color their walls are and how high their ceiling is. You can't rely on that, you have to be able to create excellent images regardless. Ideally I prefer to have the light off camera and use an umbrella, but I photograph pets and they tend to move around a lot so if I place the light on the lightstand and the pet wanders off and away the light on the stand will simply not reach the pet and the picture will be ruined. So this is my dilemma, it seems that I have to settle for the flash ON camera and use the softbox on the flash so that I can quickly follow where the pet wanders with my camera and light. Maybe you have some suggestions for this dilemma (other than bouncing that is) I would appreciate it. To be honest I am quite happy with the 3 images WITH the softbox. I think I'd be ok with presenting such images to the client. Oh, and it's true the flash will freeze the motion so I don't need shutter speed 1/200, thanks again for your input,
Marianne

In that case you have your answer. Given the situation you describe I would either use a small shoot through umbrella or a small white reflective umbrella and might try TTL mode. I find I can quickly move that setup around to wherever the subject is and TTL does an adequate job in getting the exposure pretty close. I use "smart" radio triggers on the camera and on the Speedlight and this allows me to use TTL mode. Direct flash would be my last resort.

I rarely use direct flash and generally either shoot with a light modifier and off-camera flash or use bounce flash. I would not hesitate bouncing off beige walls as the bit of a colour cast that beige throws off tends to be just a touch warm and even that can be cooled down in post-processing. I rarely use direct on-camera flash (in fact when I teach flash, I don't even cover that) and the only time I use it is in outdoor shooting for fill light when nothing else is available.

[Mare333]

In that case you have your answer. Given the situation you describe I would either use a small shoot through umbrella or a small white reflective umbrella and might try TTL mode. I find I can quickly move that setup around to wherever the subject is and TTL does an adequate job in getting the exposure pretty close. I use "smart" radio triggers on the camera and on the Speedlight and this allows me to use TTL mode. Direct flash would be my last resort.

I rarely use direct flash and generally either shoot with a light modifier and off-camera flash or use bounce flash. I would not hesitate bouncing off beige walls as the bit of a colour cast that beige throws off tends to be just a touch warm and even that can be cooled down in post-processing. I rarely use direct on-camera flash (in fact when I teach flash, I don't even cover that) and the only time I use it is in outdoor shooting for fill light when nothing else is available.

Thank you for replying. How small is the small umbrella? Also which exactly radio triggers are you using? I am using PocketWizard Flex TT5 transceivers but wondering if there is something better. Thanks for your help,
Marianne

[pnodrog]

Do people find it easier (more polite?) to critique the technical aspects of photographs rather than comment on the aesthetic or composition problems? I suppose in the most part it is due to your own comments giving a well detailed technical account of how the images were taken.

I find the background unnecessarily intrusive and could have been reduced or eliminated. I like the level from which the photographs have been taken but had you taken them from in front of the chair looking directly into it you could have almost completely avoided the background. If you were patient enough I am reasonably sure the cat would have move it's head to look at you.

The background (including purple colour) can be toned down and/or modified by editing or cropping but would have best been avoided when taking the photographs.

[Manfred M]

Thank you for replying. How small is the small umbrella? Also which exactly radio triggers are you using? I am using PocketWizard Flex TT5 transceivers but wondering if there is something better. Thanks for your help,
Marianne

I have a number of umbrellas ranging from 32" through to 60". I am using the Flex TT5 units on the speedlights and a Mini TT1 as the on camera trigger with the AC3 Zone Controller. PocketWizards are the top of the line triggers.

[Manfred M]

Do people find it easier (more polite?) to critique the technical aspects of photographs rather than comment on the aesthetic or composition problems? I suppose in the most part it is due to your own comments giving a well detailed technical account of how the images were taken.

I find the background unnecessarily intrusive and could have been reduced or eliminated. I like the level from which the photographs have been taken but had you taken them from in front of the chair looking directly into it you could have almost completely avoided the background. If you were patient enough I am reasonably sure the cat would have move it's head to look at you.

The background (including purple colour) can be toned down and/or modified by editing or cropping but would have best been avoided when taking the photographs.

Agreed. These are snapshots. There are simply too many elements that should not be in the shot; if they detract from the subject, they should not be included.

[Mare333]

Do people find it easier (more polite?) to critique the technical aspects of photographs rather than comment on the aesthetic or composition problems? I suppose in the most part it is due to your own comments giving a well detailed technical account of how the images were taken.

I find the background unnecessarily intrusive and could have been reduced or eliminated. I like the level from which the photographs have been taken but had you taken them from in front of the chair looking directly into it you could have almost completely avoided the background. If you were patient enough I am reasonably sure the cat would have move it's head to look at you.

The background (including purple colour) can be toned down and/or modified by editing or cropping but would have best been avoided when taking the photographs.

Thank you, I agree about the background, I didn't realize the purple toy was there. As for the cat looking directly into the camera on the 3rd pic she does, but I actually prefer her looking at the toy and engaging with the toy, seems to me a nice candid pic.

[Mare333]

I have a number of umbrellas ranging from 32" through to 60". I am using the Flex TT5 units on the speedlights and a Mini TT1 as the on camera trigger with the AC3 Zone Controller. PocketWizards are the top of the line triggers.

Thank you.

[rpcrowe]

Whenever I use flash, I always bounce it, most often I will also use a Joe Demb Flash Diffuser Professional (type) modifier... I say "type" because I have a genuine Joe Demb unit and a Chinese knock off of the Demb diffuser. Except that the OEM Demb modifier has a far better build than the knockoff, the results from both of the diffusers are just about identical.



BTW: I shoot with the flash on my camera hotshoe and shoot in the landscape position - since I often need to make my images into a calendar.

I always shoot RAW and most often include a white balance target (I have been using a WhiBal target for years now and originally purchased it on Donald's advice)). Shooting in RAW with the WhiBal allows me to correct the color balance of my image which will usually compensate for any color cast from the wall or the ceiling...

When I pose my small dogs, I do so on a reclining chair with a piece of fabric thrown over the chair to use as a background. I have a four bulb CFL softbox next to the chair which gives me some very decent fill light. I have a wide selection of fabrics in different colors but tend to stay away from the reds because that color will reflect back up onto a white dogs coat.

I sit on a rolling office chair which will place my camera about the level of the dog's eyes without me having to bend over like a contortionist. Rolling around allows me to vary my position.



When I adjust the white balance using the WhiBal card in Adobe Camera Raw the difference in color between the flash and the fluorescent bulbs in the softbox is of little or no consequence. I usually shoot at 1/60 second at f/5.6 using ISO 160 but, sometimes deliberately and sometimes mistakenly vary that exposure). I shoot with the camera in manual and the flash in TTL.

I almost always shoot with a Canon full frame camera and a 70-200mm f/4L IS lens... However, sometimes I have my 70-200mm lens on my 7D Mark 2 and the crop camera does quite well but, for larger dogs, I sometimes cannot get back far enough due to space limitations and will therefor choose the full frame camera when that happens.

The nice thing is that I really do not need to do much post processing on my images since I have the setup pretty well duplicated for each shot.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]



An important thing about bounce flash - besides relatively soft lighting - is that I do not get the blue-green glow in the dogs eyes which is the canine equivalent of the human red-eye effect from direct flash hitting the subject's retina and reflecting back into the lens However. the FlipIt reflector of the Flash Diffuser Pro does give me catch lights in the animals eyes...