Ready for take off

[Geoff F]

Cream-spot Ladybird



And an odd looking fly. Myopa testacea

[Shadowman]

Nice shots.

[charzes44]

Lovely shots Geoff. How do you diffuse your flash? I am currently about to embark on this genre!

[DanK]

Lovely shots Geoff. How do you diffuse your flash? I am currently about to embark on this genre!

Charles,

There have been a number of threads about this in the past. One is here: https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/forums/thread45866.htm?highlight=diffusing.

There are a variety of approaches, but IMHO, the keys are: 1) heavy diffusion, 2) keeping the light close to the bug (the closer it is, the larger it is relative to the bug), and 3) making sure there is some variation in lighting. This rig, for example, creates variations in lighting and shadow. Ring lights, in contrast, produce very even, flat, and uninteresting lighting.

[Geoff F]

For really wild shots, Charles, when I am shooting from about 2 ft or further away from my subject I never use any diffusion. But I do vary the flash output compensation to suit each scene.

Typical settings for me would be 1/200 F11 to 14 Iso 400 or 200 in bright conditions all set manually to suit the subject and ambient light. Do not use any auto camera settings. With a bit of experience you will learn exactly which settings values to use. Then adjust the flash output compensation as required. After a few test shots and experience this will come naturally; rather like giving the exposure compensation a little tweak for each shot when not using flash.

Putting it very basically, consider whether your subject is brighter or darker than the background under shooting conditions where the background is likely to have more effect over the auto flash exposure amount. This is when using through the lens flash monitoring. Fixed output flash works in a similar manner except you have to physically set the flash output. This can be useful for tricky situations where TTL metering is causing problems but I wouldn't advise it for general use; unless you are a really competent photographer.

For closer shooting I have a Lastolite Mini Apollo diffuser which fits over the flash head. This gives a wider angle of flash and less harsh shadows for those really close shots and helps to overcome any problems caused by the end of your lens causing a shadow. I still use manual camera settings with this bit of kit.

I have experimented with this diffuser for longer distance flash photography but I found after about 3 ft distance there wasn't any noticeable improvement.

One other thing to consider is whether any equipment is likely to scare away nervous insects; no problem with static subjects like flowers or fungi. My close shooting with a diffuser seemed rather undecided in this aspect. As far as I can tell, there has been no difference when the sun was behind me but when facing into the light the diffuser would reflect light and cause problems.

When photographing static subjects indoors, such as moths which have been subdued by chilling, I prefer to have some form of controllable studio lighting instead of flash.

[charzes44]

Geoff, thanks a million for your detailed and instructive reply to my query. I have all the 'gear', I made my own bracket as there is nothing decent on Amazon or ebay, so now it is the technique that I need to develop! I have a Lumiquest Ultrasoft diffuser for my flash, a Nissin i40, I expect that is similar to your Lastolite. Just need our weather to warm up a little now!

[charzes44]

Thank you Dan, I really appreciate your help and advice. Equipment-wise, my biggest obstacle is securing my Lumiquest diffuser to my Nissin i40 flash head as this flash is a lot smaller than the usual (one of it's attractions!). I will find a way!

[DanK]

Thank you Dan, I really appreciate your help and advice. Equipment-wise, my biggest obstacle is securing my Lumiquest diffuser to my Nissin i40 flash head as this flash is a lot smaller than the usual (one of it's attractions!). I will find a way!

If the flash head tilts up for bounce flash--it looks like it does--that could solve your problem. Point the head up relative to the flash body, and then position the entire flash and head combination to point toward the subject. Then you would have a longer body to attach a diffuser to. If you look at my rig, you will see that I do that even with my larger flash, in my case in order to get the flash head down close to the end of the lends.

BTW, that flash has a built in diffuser for wide-angle lenses. I recommend that you use it, even through macro lenses aren't wide angle.

My approach is similar to Geoff's. My bug-hunting default is f/13 (nominal), 1/125, camera on manual, flash set to auto (TTL). I use ISO 100-400, very rarely going to 800, to adjust for the background. The further away the background, the darker it will be because of flash fall-off, and increase ISO addresses this because it makes more use of the ambient light.

All of this makes the camera both heavier and poorly balanced. That's why I usually use a monopod, with a tilt head set to allow motion fore-and-aft rather than side to side.

[charzes44]

Thank you for that reply Dan. The bracket that I have made has an overhead (overcamera!) bar, to which is attached a small ball and socket. To that I have attached the 'other end' of my off camera cable, and the flashgun fitted to that. Therefore, with the flash head in the 'upright' position, it actually pointing forward over the lens towards the subject. I have been using the flash with the w/a diffuser in place and with also the supplied 'Stofen' type diffuser, but I feel that the results are a bit harsh! That was about 10" from the front of the lens, and hence my original question to Geoff. Your advice is invaluable and I am most grateful. Thank you.
By the way, my flash head measures 6cm wide x 3cm high!