First go at footy

[billtils]

I like "things that move" as subjects, especially birds in flight, insects and motor sport. Football (all of the codes) is one of the things that move that I have not tried, until last weekend when I went to a soccer (US)/football (almost everywhere else) game to see and photograph the local amateur team in action.

It's not easy ... here's the best from the first attempt but oh what I'd give for a face-on action shot .


G-O-A-L:





On their guard:





Saved

[Shadowman]

Nice shots.

[billtils]

Thanks John

[pschlute]

I think the second is the strongest from the group.

[William W]

I like "things that move" as subjects . . .
It's not easy [football] ... here's the best from the first attempt but oh what I'd give for a face-on action shot .

It's not easy. Yet it is only a skill garnered by practice and some guidance.

Consider NOT using Av Priority. If the field is generally lit evenly then you can make an assessment of an exposure for shooting into one end of the field. Sometimes you might need a different exposure for shooting into the other end in the field. In these cases consider choosing Manual Mode and choose an ISO that will allow you absolute control of a suitable Shutter Speed RANGE without the need to think about it, on the hop.

If you want "face on action", then you need to plan your VIEWPOINT based upon the general strategy of the team that you are following: it's a numbers game, you have to get the best odds.

So, for example if the if the weaker defender is LEFT BACK then it's more likely that the attack will come on that side, so you're on that side, either between the corner post and goal net (to get the attacker in face on shot) or near the quarter line (to get the defender in face on shot).

What you might find is, as a beginning/leaning activity is to choose a spot (different one for each half) to plonk yourself where you can concentrate on a small group of the more active players and more active play area, rather than running around yourself, following the play throughout the game: this way you'll develop your Sports Photography skills predicated on acquiring better anticipation of when a good shot is coming at you.

Small steps.

Isolating an area of maximum activity and learning and honing the skills there first, is my advice.

WW

Addendum - commenting specifically from a Sports Photography critique viewpoint, Image 2 is lacking, as there is no ball in shot.

[Stagecoach]

Good first attempt. The 2nd is certainly the strongest and could have more impact if cropped to remove the bottom 1/3rd.

[William W]

Addendum - commenting specifically from a Sports Photography critique viewpoint, Image 2 is lacking, as there is no ball in shot.

... which is why I think that Image 3 has more potential, even though the grimace on the faces are not in full-shot, judicious cropping will make the image stronger, with (as a GENERAL GUIDE) the three main elements of a good Sports Shot:

TIGHT in on the action area
Grimace on faces, muscles, blood etc, in shot
Ball, puck, etc in shot

quick example -



WW

[billtils]

... which is why I think that Image 3 has more potential, even though the grimace on the faces are not in full-shot, judicious cropping will make the image stronger, with (as a GENERAL GUIDE) the three main elements of a good Sports Shot:

TIGHT in on the action area
Grimace on faces, muscles, blood etc, in shot
Ball, puck, etc in shot

Thanks for the excellent advice Bill - and for this telling illustration. I'll be back out this weekend to put it into practice.

[Manfred M]

Bill - in addition to Bill's excellent advice in #7, another piece of advice I was given for this type of photography I was given by a couple of local sports photographers is to ensure that the feet of the players are not in contact with the ground in your shots. That implies action rather than a static shot.

[billtils]

Bill - in addition to Bill's excellent advice in #7, another piece of advice I was given for this type of photography I was given by a couple of local sports photographers is to ensure that the feet of the players are not in contact with the ground in your shots. That implies action rather than a static shot.

Absolutely agree, but ...

[rpcrowe]

I am definitely not a sports photographer but, I have digested and collected some tips for sports photography. Sports photography can be fun but, can also be very frustrating...

I was trying to locate an excellent YouTube video presented by B&H Camera of New York City on sports photography, I think it was done by Joe McNally but, I cannot find the video. Here are some of the things that I remember from the video regarding important points in sports photography. These points, of course, have to do with shooting sports action from the sidelines, not from a seat in the stands.

KNOW THE SPORT - probably the most important aspect. In knowing the sport, you can predict the action and where it will take place. I often marvel at how well sports commentators on TV can dissect the action - they see the various sports in a deeper way than I am capable of...

EQUIPMENT - you may be able to shoot "decent" sports photography with just about any camera/lens setup but, in order to get "great" sports images, you do need some pretty expensive equipment (or some amazing amount of luck). If you are shooting Canon - one of the later 1Dxx camera bodies is a great choice because of its fast and accurate focusing. However, a 7D Mark-2 is also a great choice. Along the Sony line, the A9 is the epitome of camera bodies but, even the later Sony APSC cameras have the fast focusing capability you need for sports. I have never kept up with the Nikon line in order to make any recommendations... A long fast lens is a great asset because you can isolate the action from the background. A combination of 400mm f/2.8 and a 70-200mm f/2.8 lenses on a pair of camera bodies are what many pros choose. However, a poor man's version was what I have shot with. Canon 300mm f/4L IS and 70-200mm f/4L IS lenses on a pair of 7D bodies. Problem with many of the longer zoom lenses is that they have apertures which are to small to allow subject separation from the background with selective DOF - especially if the subject is a distance away from you... If you are shooting with a camera body which allows decent Auto ISO, that may be the way to work - you will be able to choose your f/stop and shutter speed manually and have the exposure controlled by the auto ISO. BTW: if you are shooting a mirrorless body, make sure that you have auto-review turned off...

TECHNIQUE - sports photographers shooting American Football very often use their long prime on a monopod and their zoom on a strap. Low angles are often great (although at my age, if I kneel down - the game will be ended before I can get up) and in order to facilitate the kneeling, a pair of knee pads can help. Kneeling with the monopod at a low extension and the zoom, on the ground next to you is a good way to shoot. Shoot action that occurs at a distance with the long prime but, be ready to pick up the zoom when the action is approaching you. However, American Football can be somewhat more predictable in action. Shooting several shots in succession using fast burst mode is great, but, some photographers just spray the field hoping for a good shot to appear. That is, IMO, not the way to shoot. Some folks worry about buffer size but, shooting judiciously can minimize the impact of a smaller buffer - however a fast memory combined with shooting in JPEG can also help.

Good luck with your future action shots - a YouTube search may be profitable. Also watching sports on television with the intent of studying how the pros position themselves can help. Finally, studying sports photos that are online or have been published in hard copy is another way to hone your skills. Looking at each image and trying to dissect the impact of the shot can really help.

[billtils]

Thanks Richard.

I'm at one with most of what you say, including the getting-up-after-kneeling part, but I will give the low-level approach a try. I shoot Nikon and these were taken with my absolute favourite lens, the 300PF prime on a FF D810 body. It was an amateur league match and spectators can stand right up to the touchline which I did at first but moved quite a bit back later. There were two other set-up problems: it was mid afternoon with angles restricted by a low sun shining diagonally across the pitch - that is, after the strong wind blew a gap in the clouds, but until then I had driving, face-on, rain to contend with.

I think it's called fun.

[billtils]

Thanks Grahame

[vaez]

... which is why I think that Image 3 has more potential, even though the grimace on the faces are not in full-shot, judicious cropping will make the image stronger, with (as a GENERAL GUIDE) the three main elements of a good Sports Shot:

TIGHT in on the action area
Grimace on faces, muscles, blood etc, in shot
Ball, puck, etc in shot

quick example -



WW

Is better

[billtils]

Is better

Indeed it is!