Getting to grips with flash

[rpcrowe]

Of course Richard, the old fashioned solution to shooting at large aperture settings in bright lights is to use ND filters to cut down the ambient light and stick with normal flash. Not necessarily great for freezing motion, but something I used in the film days too.

The Aony APSC cameras have a maximum shutter speed of 1/4,000 second in contrast with the 1/8,000 second of the A7iii and 1/32,000 second of the A9. So an ND filter is sometimes required if I want to shoot wide open .

That is one area in which the new Sony 100mm STF GM has an advantage. You can shoot at a slower shutter speed wide open and still get great subject separation...

[William W]

. . . the old fashioned solution to shooting at large aperture settings in bright lights is to use ND filters to cut down the ambient light and stick with normal flash. Not necessarily great for freezing motion, but something I used in the film days too.

On a tangent from the main question, yet arguably two worthwhile points to mention:

1. The solution outlined by Manfred has one other sometimes big limitation, depending upon the outcome requirements. Other than this solution not necessarily being great to freeze Subject Motion, which Manfred mentioned, the other (possible) main problem is that plonking an ND Filter in front of the Lens attenuates BOTH the Flash Light source and the Ambient Light source.

Effectively, the bottom line to achieve any given Flash to Ambient Ratio, you require exactly the same Flash Power with or without the use of an ND Filter.

I mention this, not because I think that Manfred and others don't already know it, but rather because I think it is an important point to always include as a mention in this solution: to ensure there is no misunderstanding of what it can and cannot achieve - I have noted that some people assume that the ND Filter only attenuates the Ambient Light.

2. Another "old fashioned solution" to this problem is to use Leaf Shutter Lenses. This is the main reason why I have adapted two LS Lenses to use on my DSLRs and one of the reasons why I bought a Fuji X100s.

WW

[dje]

This is the main reason why I have adapted two LS Lenses to use on my DSLRs

WW

Bill, just out of interest, how does this work exactly. Presumably the lens has it's own shutter release button and you open the lens for framing purposes on the camera. Then with the lens shutter closed,open the camera shutter for a longer period than the shutter speed you trigger on the lens? But how is the flash triggered?

Dave

[Manfred M]

Dave - I'm not sure how Bill does everything, but on my leaf shutter lenses, the flash synch cord attaches to the lens, not the camera body.

[dje]

Dave - I'm not sure how Bill does everything, but on my leaf shutter lenses, the flash synch cord attaches to the lens, not the camera body.

Ahh I see, thanks Manfred.

[rpcrowe]

"Another "old fashioned solution" to this problem is to use Leaf Shutter Lenses. This is the main reason why I have adapted two LS Lenses to use on my DSLRs and one of the reasons why I bought a Fuji X100s."

Admittedly, I haven't used a leaf shutter lens in years but, they used to max out at about 1/500 second shutter speed. Perhaps though, there have been improvements...

[Manfred M]

Admittedly, I haven't used a leaf shutter lens in years but, they used to max out at about 1/500 second shutter speed. Perhaps though, there have been improvements...

It looks like they have gotten much better: The spec sheets for the Schneider-Kreuznach lenses for Phase One cameras have leaf shutters that synch up to 1/1600 second.

https://www.phaseone.com/en/Photogra...uznach-80mm-LS

[William W]

Bill, just out of interest, how does this work exactly. Presumably the lens has it's own shutter release button and you open the lens for framing purposes on the camera. Then with the lens shutter closed,open the camera shutter for a longer period than the shutter speed you trigger on the lens?

Yes exactly. The lens has the shutter cock and shutter release on the lens itself. I’d typically use Mirror-Up and something like 2 second exposure on the camera.

But how is the flash triggered?

As per Manfred’s answer: the lenses have a Flash Nipple on them.

. . . I haven't used a leaf shutter lens in years but, they used to max out at about 1/500 second shutter speed. Perhaps though, there have been improvements...

Yes, my medium format L/S lenses only go to 1/500s Flash Sync, but that’s still a lot faster the 1/160s Flash Sync that I can get using my old Metz Hammerheads or Elinchrom Heads with my Canon DSLR (I use a pair of Metz outdoors – or two Elinchrom Studio Heads, because they have more power, compared to my Canon Speedlite.)

WW

[dje]

Yes exactly. The lens has the shutter cock and shutter release on the lens itself. I’d typically use Mirror-Up and something like 2 second exposure on the camera.

As per Manfred’s answer: the lenses have a Flash Nipple on them.

Yes, my medium format L/S lenses only go to 1/500s Flash Sync, but that’s still a lot faster the 1/160s Flash Sync that I can get using my old Metz Hammerheads or Elinchrom Heads with my Canon DSLR (I use a pair of Metz outdoors – or two Elinchrom Studio Heads, because they have more power, compared to my Canon Speedlite.)

WW

Thanks Bill.

In terms of leaf shutter speeds, I guess it is easier to get faster shutter speeds on lenses that are physically much smaller such as those on fixed lens compacts. On my old Canon G15, the max shutter speed is 1/4000sec and the max flash sync sped is 1/2000sec. I assume your Fuji would be similar.

Dave

[William W]

. . . In terms of leaf shutter speeds, I guess it is easier to get faster shutter speeds on lenses that are physically much smaller such as those on fixed lens compacts. On my old Canon G15, the max shutter speed is 1/4000sec and the max flash sync sped is 1/2000sec. I assume your Fuji would be similar. . .

Yes, I think that because the typical larger diameter of a M/F lens, that would in turn mean the size of the leaves would be larger and therefore have to traverse a greater distance in their closed-opened-closed cycle - so whilst not doing the maths, I reckon you're correct.

Yes my Fuji X100s specs state Flash Sync to 1/4000s. I have not used that. I have used 1/1000s.

***

The history is, I converted two medium format L/S lenses about 15 years ago to use on my Canon digital gear. that was when I was still covering weddings regularly. That was about two years of using Canon DSLRs and using digital exclusively for weddings; prior to 2004 I used both MF and 135 Format Film cameras for Wedding work.

1/500s Flash Sync served as adequate for those years - there were quite a few portraits made outdoors with high flash sync speeds, and 1/500s stopped mostly all of the Subject Nervous Movement.

When Fuji released their x100 series I was taken by lost of features of the first version. I waited for a while and that time was taken to convince myself that the second iteration (x100s) would be an excellent "business purchase" as I would not have to fiddle with those old M/F leaf shutter lenses - of course that was total garbage - because when I bought the x100s I had all but finished wedding work, for good.

HOWEVER I do use the leaf shutter and flash for "casual / candid portraiture" even though not such is rarely for an business purposes.

There are newer M/F leaf shutter lenses which have camera connectivity and faster than 1/500s Flash Sync - (I didn't open the link, but I think Manfred mentioned one of those lenses particularly). These newer lenses, I think are all purpose built, specifically for M/F Digital, though some may work on M/F Film bodies.

If one wanted to play with Leaf Shutter Lenses on their existing DSLR, then I think the least expensive way to dabble is to get an older manual lens and the suitable converter. Probably cost about (US$) $200~$300 for an excellent quality F/2.8 M/F Leaf Shutter lens, something in the 80~150mm FL range and the converter maybe $150. Obviously the converter is a one off buy, because once bought, it can attach many lenses of the same mount.

One has to ensure infinity focus - that means checking the Flange Distances of the two systems (i.e. the old lens and the new DSLR) are a suitable match: if there is/are a few third party adapters made by the reputable manufacturers and they all state infinity focus, then that's good enough to say that you'd be set to go.

On the other hand - a camera such as the Fuji X100s, is simply marvelous.

So many choices.

WW

- Have a great Christmas and New Year Dave - stay safe and do a Rain Dance.