Tall Tripod and head

[whited3]

If you had AU$800-1000 to spend on a carbon tripod and head for landscapes, what would you get?

Background to this is my usual over analysis and procrastination in replacing my 10 yo Manfrotto gear. The rider to the tripod selection is that I'm 189cm tall and so need (my back and knees tell me) a tallish tripod.

At this point I'm considering a Surui W2204 tripod and FLM CB-43 FTR head with LB-15 leveling base.

All opinions welcome.

[Pippan]

I bought a Sirui W2204 with the K-30 head just before Christmas. I haven't had a chance to test it in harsh conditions yet but it is very nice to use (and of course it's waterproof). It is tall (and I'm only a little shorter than you at 188 cm). You can certainly use it without bending over and even with the centre column fully retracted it's tall. AU$612 all up, including delivery to a little south of Darwin. A bargain I reckon.

[DanK]

I can't offer specific advice, as I have used neither. Moreover, I am not primarily a landscape photographer, and the optimal setup depends in part on what types of work you do. There is also a lot of personal taste involved. However, for what little it is worth, I'll offer a few general observations:

-- for most types of work, almost all tripods are effectively waterproof. I have never had a problem with water in the legs of my Oben in the years I have used it. It's another matter if you want to place it in water, e.g., streams.
-- I deliberately chose a tripod with a center post, in part because reversing the post is useful for some macro work. My understanding is that many landscape photographers prefer legs that reach the desired height without a post because they believe it will have less motion. I haven't had a problem with mine, but that's what many people say.
-- I don't know that head, but it looks like the clamp is proprietary. Personally, I will never again by a head that isn't arca-swiss compatible. If you use only that one head, don't mind buying proprietary plates for every piece that needs to be mounted, and never shoot in portrait mode, it wouldn't be a problem, but none of those are true for me. The last head I bought that wasn't arca-swiss compatible was a Manfrotto Junior geared head, and I finally gave up and purchased a Hejnar adapter to make it arca-swiss compatible.

[Manfred M]

It totally depends on the type of photography you are trying to do and the level of stability found in your tripod. I do a lot of landscape work and do night / blue hour / golden hour work using a full-frame body and lenses. I shoot panos, so use a pano head on my gear. I shoot in the winter, in extreme conditions, so ability to use the equipment with heavy outdoor wear and gloves on is critical to my work.

I went for a Feisol CT-3372L carbon fiber tripod that goes to a height of 205cm without extending the column (and to 260 cm with the column extended). The top legs are a massive 37mm diameter and it is can hold 30 kg. I don't need a leveling base as the tripod column incorporates a cut and ball design like video tripods, so leveling is very easy. I also bought the optional leg spikes that I use when shooting on soft ground. I can replace the centre column with a solid plate when shooting in situations where stability is critical and have done multiple exposure 2-hour shots that have given me pixel level alignment.

I use a Really Right Stuff (RRS) BH-55 ball head which has a massive 55mm ball (i.e. very good clamping force to prevent camera droop). Look for a large diameter head for to maximize stability. Generally the RRS, Markins, Novoflex and ArcaSwiss heads are usually considered the best made and performing ones on the market.

The RRS head is slightly more than the FLM you are looking at and the Feisol legs (a three-section tripod vs the 4 section you are looking at) is significantly more ($US 115 more) than the Surui. The capacity of the legs and the head are in the same range as what you are looking at.

[rpcrowe]

I have two tripods: one is a travel tripod which is light weight and the other tripod is a full size Giottos carbon fiber model which has been discontinued. The advantage of the travel tripod is, of course, its very light weight while the Giottos is absolutely solid and is totally articulating which makes it simple to place my camera/lens anywhere the tripod will reach.
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/searc...caAtw9EALw_wcB

I purchased my Giottos over ten years ago and have been quite happy with it. It is tall enough for me (I am 6'1") to use comfortably. It cost about $250 ten years ago (which I thought was a pretty good value)



However, what I would like to say in this post is that I totally agree with Dan in his above statement regarding Arca Compatible clamps. I have an A/C clamp on every one of my tripods and monopods and I also have a dedicated A/C L bracket for every one of my cameras. I used to purchase RRS L brackets for my Canon gear but, have recently been purchasing generic L brackets from eBay for my Sony cameras and lenses.

An example of a generic L Bracket is the NEW UURIG R028 Quick Release L-Plate Vertical Bracket for SONY A6600 Vlog Camera.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-UURIG-R...53.m1438.l2649

This bracket is built as well as the RRS brackets that I previously purchased and is available at a fraction of the RRS price. An L bracket is indispensable for my style of photography, especially when shifting from vertical to horizontal format with lenses that are not equipped with a tripod ring.

Another facet of this particular L bracket is the "Shoulder Strap Hole". I use this to secure the bottom connection of a hand strap which makes shooting with a longer lens quite easy.

[DanK]

An addendum to Manfred's post:

In general, as he noted, large balls work better than small. Among other things, they are smoother. The Markins is an exception. Their heads are relatively small and light but very smooth. I opted for a Markins because I shlep my stuff on my aging back and wanted to minimize weight. In general I love it. Its one main drawback, which I read in reviews before purchasing, is that it gets stiff in very cold weather. If I am going to be out for a long time in very cold weather, e.g., winter night photography, I swap it out for a cheaper and otherwise less adequate ball head. I doubt that is an issue for you.

[rpcrowe]

An addendum to both Manfred and Dan...

With the advent of smaller and lighter weight mirrorless cameras, we can live with lighter weight tripods and heads.

As an example...

My Canon 7D Mark-2 plus Canon 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS ii lens with tripod ring weighed a total of 2550 Grams while my Sony A6600 with 70-350mm f/4.5-6.3 G lens weighs a total of 1128 grams. The Canon combination is also massively larger than the Sony combo which adds wind resistance to the equation...

While the Sony combo is slightly inferior to the Canon in its long side, it has a 30mm advantage on the short side. IMO, the fact that the Sony combination is only 44% of the Canon weight more than makes up for any disadvantage in focal length. And yes, the Canon is a full frame glass but, I always used that lens on my crop format 7D Mark-2 camera.

I don't need a tripod ring for my Sony combination which is where the L bracket comes in handy...

[Chataignier]

Take a look at the Vanguard alta pro series. Not the lightest, but very solid. I'm delighted with mine, the ball head was adequate for my canon gear and more than adequate now that I've moved to Fuji.
I also use an L bracket with an ARCA clamp to go to portrait mode. The clamp screws directly to the quick release plate on the Vanguard.

[Manfred M]

With the advent of smaller and lighter weight mirrorless cameras, we can live with lighter weight tripods and heads.

To some extent that is correct, BUT that only assumes that weight is the limiting factor. Try doing some low-light photography in windy conditions and the lighter weight camera is actually a liability and a heavy duty tripod is even more important. In much of my work, a heavy camera, a tripod with large diameter legs and hang-wrights on the tripod hook are 100% necessary to get the shot.

This is why the type of photography one is trying to do plays a large role in identifying the properties one is looking for in a tripod. As an example, my go-to tripod (that has been all over the world with me) does not come along if I am walking great distances or am backpacking. Dragging an extra 10 lbs to Everest Base Camp (or somewhere else at altitude) is not a great idea.

I can 100% guarantee I would not have gotten this shot using light weight gear:




Ambient temperature -27C / -17F , wind guests between 50 and 60 km / hr (32 - 37 mph) at an altitude of 4250m / 13,940 ft using Feisol tripod and RRS ball head with 20 lb hang weight on tripod hook.

[rpcrowe]

While many photographers recommend turning off Image Stabilization while the camera is tripod mounted. Later versions of Canon IS recognize that the camera is tripod mounted and shut off the IS so that the compensation doesn't disturb the image quality. However, in my experience, leaving the IS switched on while taking shots while tripod mounted will nullify any slight movement due to wind and other outward forces.

I have shot with Canon DSLR cameras on the edges of many Utah canyons in pretty heavy wind conditions using my very light travel tripod and the image quality has been excellent.

I don't know if this applies to my Sony gear or to other brands such as Nikon, Olympus, etc. etc. I will have to make my own tests to learn if OSS or IBIS or both will hurt or improve the image quality of an image shot at low shutter speeds while tripod mounted. IMO, the tips from various Internet sources regarding the use of Canon IS while tripod mounted have been virtually useless because most of them follow the old technique of shutting down the IS when tripod mounted. This was true with earlier IS versions (such as that employed on the EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS lens) but is not necessary on later versions of Image Stabilized lenses. Canon itself isn't much better because in many cases they recommend shutting down IS to save battery life. I have never had a problem with battery life in my Canon DSLR cameras.

I attended an absolutely worthless presentation last week given by a Sony Representative which I had hoped would clear up the OSS/IBIS on or off question but, that presentation was so riddled with incorrect information (like "all Sony cameras have IBIS") that I left it half way through. By the way, the only reason I was able to politely leave was that at least half of the attendees had also left giving me room to venture out of the room...

One thing which (IMO) increases camera/lens stability is the use of an L bracket - this increased stability is apparent mostly when shooting in the vertical (portrait) configuration because, with the L bracket, the body of the camera is always centered directly over the tripod head and is not hanging cantilevered over to the side.

[Acorn]

I can see we are likely to go through the whole gamut of tripods presently on the worldwide market. I'm still using an aluminium Manfrotto Pro I bought in the 1980's and it's still as good as new despite being exposed to harsh environments in my semi-pro days.

[DanK]

When I needed a tripod years ago, I started by making a list of features i might want, not specific models. Then I turned that into a spreadsheet, with columns for a number of models in the price range I wanted. It took a little time, but until I did it, I found he number of choices confusing.


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[whited3]

Thanks for that. I did look at the Feisol 3471 but they are really outside my budget, as is the RSS.

It totally depends on the type of photography you are trying to do and the level of stability found in your tripod. I do a lot of landscape work and do night / blue hour / golden hour work using a full-frame body and lenses. I shoot panos, so use a pano head on my gear. I shoot in the winter, in extreme conditions, so ability to use the equipment with heavy outdoor wear and gloves on is critical to my work.

I went for a Feisol CT-3372L carbon fiber tripod that goes to a height of 205cm without extending the column (and to 260 cm with the column extended). The top legs are a massive 37mm diameter and it is can hold 30 kg. I don't need a leveling base as the tripod column incorporates a cut and ball design like video tripods, so leveling is very easy. I also bought the optional leg spikes that I use when shooting on soft ground. I can replace the centre column with a solid plate when shooting in situations where stability is critical and have done multiple exposure 2-hour shots that have given me pixel level alignment.

I use a Really Right Stuff (RRS) BH-55 ball head which has a massive 55mm ball (i.e. very good clamping force to prevent camera droop). Look for a large diameter head for to maximize stability. Generally the RRS, Markins, Novoflex and ArcaSwiss heads are usually considered the best made and performing ones on the market.

The RRS head is slightly more than the FLM you are looking at and the Feisol legs (a three-section tripod vs the 4 section you are looking at) is significantly more ($US 115 more) than the Surui. The capacity of the legs and the head are in the same range as what you are looking at.

[whited3]

Thanks. I'll have another look at Gitzo. When I looked at them last time I couldn't find a tall enough tripod.

I have two tripods: one is a travel tripod which is light weight and the other tripod is a full size Giottos carbon fiber model which has been discontinued. The advantage of the travel tripod is, of course, its very light weight while the Giottos is absolutely solid and is totally articulating which makes it simple to place my camera/lens anywhere the tripod will reach.

[whited3]

Thanks for that. Looked at the ALTA Pro 2+ 263 and 264. The load rating of 7kg seems low to me for a 5Ds and long lens.

Take a look at the Vanguard alta pro series. Not the lightest, but very solid. I'm delighted with mine, the ball head was adequate for my canon gear and more than adequate now that I've moved to Fuji.
I also use an L bracket with an ARCA clamp to go to portrait mode. The clamp screws directly to the quick release plate on the Vanguard.

[whited3]

Dan,

You're scaring me. You're not my Doppelgänger are you?

When I needed a tripod years ago, I started by making a list of features i might want, not specific models. Then I turned that into a spreadsheet, with columns for a number of models in the price range I wanted. It took a little time, but until I did it, I found he number of choices confusing.


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[DanK]

Dan,

You're scaring me. You're not my Doppelgänger are you?

Hmm. Maybe so. But at least no one can accuse me of pushing my favorite brand...

Some people would consider this approach a bit obsessive, but I think it's worth it. Even though the tripod and head are less expensive than the body and many lenses, they can make a very big difference.

It reminds me of an experience I had many years ago when I had to replace tires on my car. I was young and not very experienced, but I was lucky: there was one tire shop in town that was run by local folks who had a sterling reputation. So, I went there and asked their advice. I was inclined to buy cheap tires because I was driving a relatively cheap car. One of them said I had it backwards: the tires were the only choice I had that would affect the handling and safety of the car. They urged me to pick a tire that was well suited to the mix of driving I did, even if it wasn't the cheapest. Tripods and heads are a bit like that.

In my experience, the one trade-off that can't be avoided is weight vs. stability. For any given weight, you can find more and less stable tripod and head configurations, but all other things being equal, greater weight will give you more stability. I opted for relatively light weight because I carry my gear, and my back isn't what it once was. This is fine most of the time, but on windy days, even after hanging weight on my tripod, I often wish I had something more like Manfred's. On balance, though, what I have is better for my needs.

[whited3]

Hmm. Maybe so. But at least no one can accuse me of pushing my favorite brand...

Some people would consider this approach a bit obsessive, but I think it's worth it. Even though the tripod and head are less expensive than the body and many lenses, they can make a very big difference.

I love a good spreadsheet. Especially a decision matrix. OCD I'm not, risk averse I am

[Polar01]

Mark just a little story, it is said that we (photographers) will purchase on average 5 tripods until we find the one. If you add up the costs of the first 3 tripods it will likely be close to the cost of the 5th add in the 4th then the fifth one and you have purchased 2 of the fifth one. I met two landscape photographers on one of my travels, one was an old time National Geo staff photographer, they showed me what they use, they said you need something like that. When I got back from Iceland I purchased the Feisol CT-3472-L, the 34 is 3 legs 4 sections as the 33 well you can work that out. I was luck as my first tripod was free so I was only on by second purchased. Oh on more thing I lost over 2 hours of shooting as I had to raise the centre column to shoot over a rail, there was a light breeze slow shutter work gone.

Cheers: Allan

[whited3]

Thanks Allan. I will check out the CT-3372-LV (which sounds great) but at AU$1500 I'm not sure I can stretch that far.