Originally Posted by
Manfred M
Let me try to give you the "simple" answer:
1. Faster lenses (small aperture numbers usually f/2.8 or less) will have a relatively large entrance pupil, which means light at the edges, when shot wide open (or stopped down a bit), have to travel through a lot more glass than light that is collected near the centre of the lens.
If you remember basic high school physics; different wavelengths of light change speed as they travel from one material to another (air to glass, for instance) and the light is refracted. This is the principle behind a prism and different wavelengths of light exit at different places. A lens designer wants all wavelengths of light to converge at the same point on the sensor, so we end up with fairly complex lens designs, especially with fast lenses. No lens is perfect, so we do get small errors as we get further away from the centre of the lens. Ultimately, this impacts the quality of the image.
Stopping down means light is collected more towards the centre of the lens and these issues are minimized.
2. Countering this is that light is bent (diffracted) when it hits the diaphram blades, so we get some scattering. The smaller the aperture, the more pronounced this effect is. Lens diffraction is just as noticeable as softening from a fast lens. I generally shoot expensive "pro" glass on a heavy duty tripod. I do know what a sharp image looks like.
Generally we write about a lenses "sweet spot"; i.e. where refraction artifacts are minimized and diffraction impacts are minimized. This tends to be around 2 or 3 stops from fully open and once we get smaller than around f/11, diffraction can become noticeable.
That being said, let's look at the "real world" as camera or subject motion, focus issues, etc. can quickly override these lens issues. A good, sturdy tripod and care in focusing works well, but that is not the way that most people shoot.
I have shot full-frame lenses on crop frame cameras and have gotten excellent results. That being said, i have not tested the quality of resolution using test targets to see which one is technically better. In real world photography, technical quality (i.e. lens sharpness) is one of many factors that I consider. In some types of photography, sharpness is not a significant factor, in others, it matters a lot.
Unless you are someone who makes large prints, then it is very much an academic exercise. Most images posted on the internet are down-sampled to around 2MP; there is so much detail and subtlety lost that lens resolution is unimportant. If you make large prints (like I do; typically 17" x 22" / A2 format), then you can tell, but not necessarily if one looks at a normal viewing distance (2x - 3x the print diagonal). In fact, I find that I will notice digital noise more than lens sharpness once we get to even moderate ISO values. I can tell when I am printing a crop factor or full frame lens, but I am looking at full print resolution on my computer screen when I do so.
I hope that this helps.