Looking for help / insight regarding my first camera purchase?

[The Dutchman]

Hello all, I’m an aspiring professional photographer. My dream / goal is to have large prints hanging in galleries one day. I mostly take shots in and around Dallas, Texas. Architecture, natural landscapes, pretty much everything I can think of or notice to keep it interesting and fun. It’s been a bummer that my iPhone Xs isn’t better shooting at night. So mostly stills with a handful of nature videos sprinkled in. It would also be nice to have quality zoom as well.

Initially I was leaning toward a Nikon D5600 or possibly an equivalent Canon. Canon sounds super beginner friendly to say the least. Best Buy has a Sony Alpha a6000 with 16-50 and 55-210 lenses for $649.99. Then an Amazon reviewer steered me toward the Fujifilm X-T30 by claiming the Fuji was a much better alternative than the Sony. Best Buy has an X-T30 with a 18-55 lens for $1299.99. Lastly, I was thinking why not a weather resistant X-T3 but then I’m looking at $1200 for the body + $700 for the 18-55 lens?!

I’d love to have this camera for 5-10 years, and to be happy with it. Initially I didn’t want to spend over $750 but with all of the available financing options I’d be willing to spend quite a bit more for the “perfect” camera. Cambridge in Colour is on my list of sites to submit work to so nice coincidence. Thank you for your help!

[Manfred M]

First lesson is that there is no perfect camera. Each make / model has its upsides and downsides. It looks to me like you are planning to step up from an iPhone to something with a larger sensor. At the price point you are looking at, you really can't go wrong with any of the major brands. Right now you are looking at architecture and landscapes, so you don't need something with super fast focus, so there is no real advantage of a DSLR like the D5600 over one of the mirrorless models you are looking at like the Sony or the Fuji. If you are also looking at doing some video work, then the mirrorless cameras are likely to be a bit better for you.

At this point, don't get too concerned about which camera / lens you are going to go with. At this point in your work, don't blow all of your budget on a camera and lens. If you are looking at architecture and landscape work, you are going to need to look at a decent tripod. You are going to have to learn post-processing, so and appropriate computer and software are important. So far as I can recall, a basic version of the highly regarded Capture One editor is free with Fuji, Sony and Nikon cameras, so that will be a start. You can't edit a gallery quality print on your iPhone...

You should also be looking at the whole fine art aspect of photography. Right now that means a print, rather than viewing the image on a screen. That is another skill set you will have to develop. Galleries tend to be very particular about the quality of the paper and inkset used in the prints. Getting your prints done at your local Costco isn't going to cut it and learning to create gallery quality prints takes a lot of time, effort and money.

Getting work into galleries is a challenge as well as they want work that they can sell. Unless you understand the current fine art print market, you are not going to break in unless you can offer a product that will sell. This means you have to learn about what the market wants and how to produce it. That generally means getting connected with that scene and becoming known in it.

Good luck!

[The Dutchman]

Thank you for your thoughtful reply Manfred. I’m leaning heavily toward the Fujifilm XT-30 now. However, each is impressive. I never dreamed how much you could manipulate a shot: focal points, etc. Thanks for your thoughts on prints as well. I have a ton to learn that’s for sure. I’m @t_rexpics on Instagram. Should you look at it I apologize for the number of duplicates on my page. Whittling them down is probably a project for this afternoon

[Manfred M]

Don't get too wrapped up in the technology of focal points. The last time I looked high end cameras like the Phase One and Hasselblad only use one focus point. In landscape, architectural (and portrait) photography, I want to pick where the camera focuses. In my experience with multi focal points, the camera usually chooses the wrong focus plane.

What is important in a camera is the ability to select the main shooting parameters; ISO, aperture and shutter speed to create the image that you want. The camera should also let you override the settings. Unless that camera lets you do those things, I wouldn't touch it.

[DanK]

I agree with Manfred but would add a few points.

First, it sounds like you are early in your development as a photographer. In my opinion, it is often a very big mistake to spend a great deal of money early on. It will take time for you to learn which features are worthwhile for your particular types of photography. For example, I just this morning ordered a new camera. It is a few years out of date in terms of video features, but I don't do videos, so that doesn't matter to me. It was a good choice for me, but it would be a bad choice for some other people.

I was going to post one of Manfred's points: spending a lot of money on a fancy autofocus system is a waste if you are interested in landscape and architecture.

Re software: there are lots of arguments about the pros and cons of different software packages, but regardless of which you pick, I agree with Manfred: learning postprocessing skills--which can take a long time--is an essential part of becoming a skilled photographer.

Re printing: this is a big issue, for three reasons. First, it takes time, practice, and study to become a capable printer. Second, the size you decide to print will affect which cameras are best for you. Higher resolution is useless for posting on the web but helps when printing large prints. Third, good printers are expensive. Here in the US, Epson and Canon pigment-ink printers capable of printing A2 cost between $1000 and $1400, depending on when you shop. So making the choice of a printer is a big decision. One option is to buy a cheaper printer that will only print to A3+ to learn how to print and then step up when you decide what size you want to print and which features you want. For learning, dye-based printers are fine (my favorite is the Canon Pixma pro 100, which you can often find very cheaply if you want for specials), but once you get to the point of exhibiting or selling prints, a pigment-based printer is pretty much essential.

[The Dutchman]

Don't get too wrapped up in the technology of focal points. The last time I looked high end cameras like the Phase One and Hasselblad only use one focus point. In landscape, architectural (and portrait) photography, I want to pick where the camera focuses. In my experience with multi focal points, the camera usually chooses the wrong focus plane.

What is important in a camera is the ability to select the main shooting parameters; ISO, aperture and shutter speed to create the image that you want. The camera should also let you override the settings. Unless that camera lets you do those things, I wouldn't touch it.

Sorry, I’m in safari and am not sure where to type. I know you get raw on the Fuji and focal points shouldn’t be an issue either due to manual override but I’ll double check everything

[The Dutchman]

Thanks Dan and Manfred. Dan, which camera did you order? I spent roughly $3,000 on submachine guns and ammunition last fall for range practice only, not a hunter. About the nuttiest purchase I've ever made. I'm thinking surely I can invest up to half as much in photography. It is amazing how well the two sports compliment one another. If you don't hold you're gun steady you miss your target. This carries over very well to photography.

Is 24-26 megapixel enough to get a large print, or do you need 36+? The printing aspect is way over my head as I need to learn how to operate a camera first but I'd like my first camera to be capable. Thanks again! - Rich Hardy @t_rexpics on Instagram

[DanK]

The camera I ordered is a Canon 5D Mark IV. This model is several years old, but it's on sale now, and it has what I wanted. The 5D III I have been using is a great camera, but the IV has a number of improvements, including that I am interested in: a modest increase in resolution (30.4 MP) for printing when I have cropped substantially, greater dynamic range, less sensor noise, and the ability to do exposure compensation with auto-ISO (which I use very rarely). The IV has all that as well as several additional features.

However, all that said, with enough care and good software, you can print larger than the resolution of the camera. I routinely exhibit A3+ and occasionally A2 using images from my 5D III, which is 22.4 MP. And as a more extreme example, I have a 13 x 19 (roughly A3+, I think) print of the photo below on exhibit in a gallery, and I have another copy hanging on a wall at home. It's a crop of an image I took with a 12 MP Lumix LX-100. Could I get a better print if I started with the 5D III or IV? Yes. But without seeing the A/B comparison, no one has ever said that the print is deficient. That includes an artist and a gallery director who inspected it.



So the bottom line is what Ansel Adams said: the most important piece of photographic equipment is the 12 inches behind the viewfinder. I wouldn't worry about resolution unless you intend to print VERY large, particularly when you are setting out.

[William W]

. . . I spent roughly $3,000 on submachine guns and ammunition last fall . . . I'm thinking surely I can invest up to half as much in photography. It is amazing how well the two sports compliment one another. If you don't hold you're gun steady you miss your target. . .

Perhaps, depends on what genres of Photography: for Natural Landscapes and Architecture Prints to hang in a gallery, you'll likely rarely ever be holding a camera steady - the Tripod, Head and probably counter weights will do that job.

Apropos what to buy, buy a any good quality 'entry level' camera, allowing an interchangeable lens system, Buy it with a standard kit zoom lens. Camera must have "Manual" capacity (as Manfred outlined control over Aperture Shutter Speed and ISO) and must be able to capture raw files. I'd suggest second hand or recently discontinued model. Get it in your hands before you buy it, it has to feel good, easy to use and the menu system has to make sense to you. Maybe that will come out around 1/3 of the $1500.

The get out and take photos every day and request critical feedback on your work: practice your post production skills: invest in a solid business course with a marketing bias: above all else - you've got to be pulling at least 3 good shots per day, every day - and improving weekly.

After 6 months of this discipline, you'll know almost exactly what you need to buy.

WW

[DanK]

I agree with Bill. You needn't spend a lot. For example, if you wanted to go a step or two above what Bill suggested, a refurbished Canon 77D or 80D with a kit lens runs about $550-650, e.g., https://shop.usa.canon.com/shop/en/c...820&pageSize:&. These are a substantial step up from the basic Rebel models in ergonomics, although the Rebels would be OK too. I had been doing photography for a long time when I first put my toes into digital, and I started with a low-end Canon Rebel.

[William W]

. . . I’m an aspiring professional photographer. My dream / goal is to have large prints hanging in galleries one day. . .

To be blunt and to re-iterate: if these are two serious statements, then a budding Concert Pianist certainly does not need a Grand Piano to practice Hanon scales and arpeggios as part of the INITIAL TRAINING - similarly an intended Olympic Swimmer doesn't need a Speedo Fastskin to do INITIAL TRAINING in the pool each day.

WW

[Manfred M]

To go a step beyond what Dan and Bill have said, there is no reason to get too tied up with your choice of equipment right now. You need to get started on the journey and any tool will work well. You have no idea as to where your photography is going to end up taking you once you start shooting with something other than your iPhone.

Once you start shooting, you may find you take a totally different direction that where you think you are heading today, so grow your equipment organically by adding the tools you need when you find that the equipment that you own is limiting what you are trying to achieve.

My normal camera is a full frame 36MP DSLR and I expect that I will be stepping up to a higher resolution camera in the next year or two. I regularly print 17" x 22" / A2 and 13" x 19" / A3+ images for competitions and exhibitions. I have won awards for large size prints taken with a 2x crop factor micro four-thirds sensor. I can tell the difference, but at standard viewing distances, most people cannot.

Within 6 months of getting my first DSLR, I realized I have made a mistake and should have gone full frame; I own a number of lenses I don't use any more because I need lenses designed for a full frame sensor. I started out shooting primarily landscapes but I have been getting more recognition for my people shots and still life work.

It's a strange and convoluted journey...

[wilgk]

It is a cliché because it is true
The best camera is the one you have with you.

Don’t be caught ‘leaving the big camera at home’ get a size & lens combo that can go anywhere with you.

Then follow all what has been said already.

[DanK]

It’s like the old joke: a tourist gets into a taxi and asks the cabbie, “how do I get to Carnegie Hall?” The cabbie answers, “practice, practice, practice.”


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[The Dutchman]

Thanks, I'll look very closely at the Canon. Best Buy actually has the Fuji X-T3 with the 18-55 lens for $1599 (26.1MP). 12" behind the viewfinder meaning what's in between your ears. Speaking of which, I can't wait to do something creative w/ a real camera. That is a really great shot, I'm looking forward to a little more space and a few on my wall some day. I'm @ t_rexpics on Instagram. Unfortunately, it looks like I need a flickr account to post on here but I guess that's not a big deal if I only put half a dozen pics on it

[The Dutchman]

Thanks William. Also great advice and usually more my style. The Fuji X-T3 looks like it will feel good in my hands compared to the X-T30 but I'll keep an open mind

[The Dutchman]

I just googled "best 36mp dslr cameras." You guys are keeping me busy!

[The Dutchman]

Cute woman, "Snapchick" I think, said that in a video the other day!

[The Dutchman]

Ha-ha! I love how it slows me down and helps me pay attention. More free time than usual lately but will stay with it

[The Dutchman]

Pentax looking interesting in this article: https://www.digitalcameraworld.com/b...st-dslr-camera . Am probably going to just go for it. Not necessarily the Pentax but I love the thought of not being limited. Limited only by my ability and the steep learning curve for one of these cameras as well printing a-okay with me.

I also like to throw in some long exposure and big-time movement to get a few "The Starry Night" - like images and worry that a top-flight professional camera might shut me down. I had NO clue there was an Intentional Camera Movement group of photographers out there so that was a bummer. I thought I was the first lol!