comments on edits

[CatherineA]

How about a conversion to grayscale, a histogram expansion with mid-tone slider adjustment, then split-toning to the ever-recurring movie theme Teal and Orange?

For example, a quick shot with Layers and Masks:



My toning could be better ... -not much of a mood there.

Perhaps more Teal and less Orange by adjusting the mid-point of the grayscale layer?

Hi, Ted! I really like what you have done! Thank you. And thanks for telling me the steps you took before doing the split toning. So much to learn, and that's a good thing. In this case expanding the mid-tones helps the image - it helps distinguish the cemetery from the trees for one thing. By contrast, I've been looking at pencil drawings recently that I thought were beautiful and yet they had nothing but slight variations of mid-tone greys.

[William W]

. . . I took the photo with a 55mm prime lens at f/7.1 with an 850nm IR filter.

Thanks.

Try using the lens (and IR Filter) at around F/11. When I make IR images I hold little faith in my estimation of the 'correct exposure', in fact from trial and error, my observation is that method of establishing the 'correct exposure' can vary from scene to scene: so me being one who appreciates always being 'safe' - I usually pull the shot around F/11 and bracket wildly on Shutter Speed. When I write "bracket wildly on Shutter Speed" I mean usually a range of 4 or 5 Stops in half-stop increments. That's overkill, probably, but it does provide a good range of choice when evaluating which is the best file for Post Production Editing.

A solid Tripod and Head is your friend.

WW

Examples FYI - [LINK]

[CatherineA]

- I usually pull the shot around F/11 and bracket wildly on Shutter Speed. When I write "bracket wildly on Shutter Speed" I mean usually a range of 4 or 5 Stops in half-stop increments. That's overkill, probably, but it does provide a good range of choice when evaluating which is the best file for Post Production Editing.

WW

Examples FYI - [LINK]

Thanks, Bill, I added that to my notes for the next time that I try IR. I love your shots, are they all taken with a converted camera? My photo was shot at ISO 32000 and a Sh Sp of 174 sec. Of course my screen was of no use so I kept shooting different speeds until the histogram looked ok. I focussed of different areas in the scene in case I wanted to photo stack, and I shot the cemetery from many different angles, always covering the possibility of focus stacking later. What I didn't do was bracketing for shutter speed. Next time I will though.

What does "F3265v01" mean at the bottom of your photos?

[xpatUSA]

I took the photo with a 55mm prime lens at f/7.1 with an 850nm IR filter.

Do you have the luxury of live view on your camera, Catherine?

My Sigma DSLR is easily converted to IR or full-spectrum work because it's UV/IR blocking filter is in the lens mount and easily removed with one's thumb-nail.

But, regrettably, no live view, so -a) the view-finder goes black when an IR filter is mounted on the lens and -b) the metering sensor is blind to IR, thereby necessitating lots of negative EC to get anywhere near the correct exposure.

[William W]

. . . I love your shots, are they all taken with a converted camera? . . . What does "F3265v01" mean at the bottom of your photos?

Thank you for the comment.

I don't have a converted IR camera.

For IR, I mainly use a Fuji X100s with an R72 filter on it, although I do have IR filters which fit to lenses in my Canon DSLR Kit, also I have IR film, in the deep freeze.

Those three photos were made with the Fuji: it has a fixed 23mm F/2 lens and is APS-C Format.

***

"F3265v01"

This is my cataloging nomenclature:

F = Fuji (Camera Identifier)
3265 = is the frame number (each digital camera I own has continuous numbering so every shot has a unique number)
v01 = is the Post Production version number.

WW