Free photography tips

[Dave Humphries]

?? Why is that?

Because jpg is like fast food and RAW is like buying ingredients and cooking it yourself - almost inevitably it will be better than mass produced burgers!

[Colin Southern]

Because jpg is like fast food and RAW is like buying ingredients and cooking it yourself - almost inevitably it will be better than mass produced burgers!

Also, the JPEG creation process throws away a LOT of information to make the file size smaller ... unfortunately, we sometimes need some of this information back if we have to make big adjustments.

[mariejo]

Hey thanks !!! , now...I have to learn to use RAW pictures...)

Also, the JPEG creation process throws away a LOT of information to make the file size smaller ... unfortunately, we sometimes need some of this information back if we have to make big adjustments.

[LenG]

NEVER leave home without your camera....I cannot believe I did this, because what was supposed to be an up and back has turned into a two and a half day adventure...and I am cameraless...bah-humbug!

Chris I know EXACTLY how you feel. I went to my best friend's place once sans-camera and I missed an incredible opportunity to capture a racoon in broad day light eating cherries from her cherry tree. Needless to say I take it with me almost everytime I go out (except when I go to work).

Jpeg vs Raw:

Umm...ok...say this is the "spectrum" or information in an jpeg file:

________

This would be the "spectrum" or information in a raw file of identical dimensions (say 640x480):

_________________________

It's a crude representation but I'd like it think it gets the point across. There's way more information in a raw file than a jpeg. As Colin said, it give you much more information to work with when it comes to adjustments.

[Dave Humphries]

Hi Mariejo,

jpg vs RAW take 2 (for me) ... further to the food analogy earlier ...

A jpg is for looking at (and perhaps printing), the jpg creating software knows how the human eye works and throws away about 80% of the information your eye doesn't need to form the image inside your brain.

However, as Len and Colin say, this information is essential for almost any post processing (PP) to be done, because that inevitably shifts the image data around revealing (when re-saved and viewed) all the 'holes' where the missing 80% should be. These aren't, of course, literal holes as in completely missing pixels in the final image, more data holes resulting soft and/or jagged edges and 'contoured' shades instead of smooth variations of tone - usually seen in the sky.

A RAW file is for editing, because this retains ALL the data captured by the camera

Point and shoot cameras take jpgs (and usually cannot take RAW) because the typical P&S user just wants a picture they can share and will rarely bother to attempt any PP (even though a simple crop and straighten would work wonders for most snaps, even if only destined for FB, etc.).

Photographers soon realise that the PP is the essential 'Part 2' of the image making process and start using RAW when they see how much better the results are from jpg - just like I did a few years ago.

Cheers,

[mariejo]

Hey thansk Dave,

that was really easy to understand ! I will definitly try ! Next ones will be taken as RAW !

[didymus]

Just remember that what you see on your camera screen is not what your RAW picture looks like, so do not be disappointed. That image is processed in-camera to an image viewable on the camera screen.

See here for some great articles.

[rob marshall]

A piece of dark card or plastic about 4x3 inches. Cut oblong in centre same aspect ratio as your sensor.Make sure it has wide edges. Before you pick up the camera use the card to get best composition. If anyone is with you, ask their opinion as to what looks best.

[rob marshall]

Read the manual

[rob marshall]

Take a look at all 4 corners of your viewfinder before you shoot.

[rob marshall]

Break the rules! Some of the most innovative photography is created by rule-breaking. The rule of thirds, for example, is not a rule. It is simply a "good compositional advisory."

[Peter Ryan]

If you have a tricky exposure situation and do not have a grey card the palm of your hand is about 1 stop lighter than mid tone. Choose matrix metering, take a meter reading off the palm of your hand (the camera does not have to be in focus to take a meter reading), dial up + 1 EC, press exposure lock, frame and shoot.

[MiniChris]

Actually, I think you will find the back of your hand works better unless you have at least a one to one and a half stop difference in skin color, then the palm is the correct exposure point.

I learned this technique from my high school photography teacher who had been a war photographer (WWII) and watched one of the great masters use the same technique.

[rob marshall]

If you do a lot of detailed editing get a pen+tablet. Will save you lots of time, and is far more accurate.

[rob marshall]

Keep a small notebook and pen in your camera bag. Make notes of anything to do with photography - locations, shot ideas, phone numbers, anything.

[rob marshall]

Print, mount and frame some pictures. Stop looking at your images solely on a monitor. You'll never fully appreciate what you have created until you see it hanging on a wall as a beautiful print.