Captree Island, Babylon, NY
I intentionally underexposed the foreground because there was a pile of concrete.
http://backup.cambridgeincolour.com/...98_kc5Vc-M.jpg
http://www.paulrizziphotography.com/...47_oeggK-M.jpg
Printable View
Captree Island, Babylon, NY
I intentionally underexposed the foreground because there was a pile of concrete.
http://backup.cambridgeincolour.com/...98_kc5Vc-M.jpg
http://www.paulrizziphotography.com/...47_oeggK-M.jpg
I like summer solstice and the second babylon. :)
I like this and do you think it would look better as a fake panorama; I like pano's and the 50D is so big it is like stitching two 10D images together anyway. I hope you can see what I mean in this, the trees lead to the corner and it looks to me like it goes forever. :)
http://i29.tinypic.com/2s80mbk.jpg
Hello everybody :)
I do have a little more free time now and I will try to answer all of you.
Thank you for posting in this thread. It is a pleasure to see so many different perspectives and scenarios through you all. :)
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I have Mark a third option: Bracketing exposures. I could remember this after I wrote about your picture but I couldn't do it or didn't feel like because I was a little tired.
On the second paragraph I told you to "Measure partially the light to the sky and to the "land" looking at the histogram and adjusting accordingly." and I will explain what I usually do in situations like these.
In fact, I do it by guessing. I frame half sky / half "land" and I push the button to lock the exposure.
I frame correctly, shoot and chimp.
If the sky is flashing then the picture is over exposed for the sky and it will be burned in the final.
I begin the process again but framing less sky.
Again, I frame correctly, shoot and chimp.
I do it over and over until I get a picture where the sky is not flashing and I have a decent histogram.
As I am used to do this I guess at sight the amount of sky to frame for the measurement.
However, I sometime leave the sky flashing a little bit because I have learned that it comes out OK in the software. Just a bit of flashing, not too much. Careful.
Bracketing is another different story which requires a tripod.
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Azz thank you for posting :)
Don't you think that the image would benefit from contrast and clarity ? May be it would be better, I guess.
I personally would like to have less vignetting.
Scotland... Nice place :)
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Don't you think that the image would benefit from contrast and clarity ? May be it would be better, I guess.
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Nice place :)
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Yes Peter, yes. :)
I would have captured a broader crop on the second image...:rolleyes:
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Thank you for posting dnomyar. Your way of presenting the pictures is quite different from mine for example. It's nice ... :)
Hi Antonio,
Interesting how we do the common things in different ways, here's my method, but I'm not saying it is any better :)
I shoot Aperture Priority with the metering set to centre weighted, also bear in mind the subject is often a bird, ranging from a Mute Swan (very white) to a Cormorant (very black).
Depending how big the bird is in the V/F **, its colour (brightness) with respect to the frame size and the background brightness (white clouds, blue sky, dark trees, pale reeds) I guess an initial Exposure Compensation to apply to the image. This might be anything from plus to minus 1.5 stops, but usually 0.5 or 1 stop.
I then set the most appropriate single focus point on typically the eye(s) and take the shot (often several if the subject is moving) without re-framing (because I am reliant on AF).
Then I chimp and adjust the EC up or down (if need be) for a second batch - if the subject is still around to be photographed that is.
Of course, when a new subject presents itslef too soon, I end up starting with the EC set for a Swan while photographing a Cormorant and get a lot of incorrectly exposed pictures :(
** If the Swan is small in V/F frame -EC is needed to stop it blowing highlights, but if it fills the V/F frame, it needs +EC to stop it under exposing.
I get by, despite my weird methods ;) :)
PS I don't know why they call them Mute Swans, they seem capable of making quite a lot of noise if they get upset (usually with each other - they're very territorial)
Two nice shots Steve.
I have one suggestion; I'd clone out the 1/4 person visible behind the post on right hand side, or possibly better still, ask them to stand at the left hand edge of the staircase, right at the top.
I like the composition on both, but the second is my favourite.
Cheers,
Cheers Dave; I'm a bit more comfortable with a wider lens. :)
Dave is right. This one is better than the other.:)
And Steve, if you feel comfortable with the wide angle why don't you explore the situation in your own favor ? Shoot more often with the lens.
This way you will get used to it (if you are not already) and get better result.
Thank you for posting :)
I don't remember if I have posted this before.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/...dd9b1f06_b.jpg
http://i31.tinypic.com/i4it81.jpg
http://i30.tinypic.com/x1m0w5.jpg
For some really good pics.
http://thenma.org.uk
I've got a tripod exactly like that Antonio, it is used for lights and brolly now :)
Hi,
This has more equilibrium,in my opinion,of course!(lasso and skew)
http://i32.tinypic.com/2z727f4.jpg
Radu Dinu