Flash for Macro - What to buy?

[ktuli]

This is all great info. You guys are awesome! Thanks! I can't wait to start working with the flash for my macro work.

- Bill

[ktuli]

Now there is a Siegelite bracket on eBay. I will have to watch and see how high it goes and see if I can win it.

[maloufn]

Nasseem, if shooting live subjects in the wild amongst brambles, twigs, and assorted greenery, keep everything simple. To start with just use the flash directly attached to the camera and forget about brackets, diffusers, etc. You don't want to scare the target with loads of paraphernalia.

For 'tame' or dead subjects, including flowers, you can experiment with improving the flash angles etc.

With regard to flash settings. I have found that the best strategy is to set the camera manually then adjust the flash output to suit.

For example, I normally select; shutter speed around 1/200; aperture between F11 and F14; ISO 100 or 200. All on the M setting. Then a few flash test shots are required.

Then, as you said, I check the results (digital cameras are wonderful) and adjust the flash compensation to suit. Usually I find that -2/3 works well but it depends on the conditions. After some experience, you should be able to get it correct straight away.

And yes, I usually prefer TTL flash metering. Manual can be useful for difficult conditions but it will take a lot of experimentation to get it correct. Normally, substantial minus settings are required.

Geoff- detail is what we are after and that is eaxactly why we use off camera flash and all the paraphenalia.
Yes the bugs might be scarred away but that is part of the game. I would rather one excellent detailed shot
than many reasonable shots. Thank you for the details on flash use. I normally use ISO 100-200, f11-16,
with flash mode set to ETTL and a shutter speed of 1/250. I am reasonably happy with some of my shots
but strive to get to Thomas Shahans standards which are so high. He amazes me how he can get that sort
of detail using a reverse 28 or 50mm lens on extension tubes with such small aperatures. Adjusting flash compensation getting that flash over the lens, and diffusing that light is what I shall be working on next. I
might need a crash course in insect behaviour as well!!!!! Keep shooting.

Nasseem

[Geoff F]

A lot of the top insect pros use a refrigerator for their stunning photos.

Catch the insect and cool it. Then shoot in a studio with perfect lighting and controlled background.

But I shoot in the wild for identification; which means getting identifiable photos of everything that comes my way. And knowing which parts of an insect are required for identification is part of the skill.

There are a few tricks for using a tripod in dense undergrowth.

I use the Manfrotto Ball Head (pistol grip) but have reversed the attachment so that I can align the lens with my left hand while my right is always ready to take the shot.

[Donald]

A lot of the top insect pros use a refrigerator for their stunning photos.

Catch the insect and cool it.

Is that not cruelty? I think I would define it as such.

[ktuli]

It certainly is a questionable morality issue.

Theoretically, if done properly, it will not harm the insect. Because insects are exothermic, it simply causes them to slow down their metabolism, much the same as happens every night as the temperatures drop. This is why many other pro insect shooters will work in the early morning hours before the insects have had the time to bask and warm up for their day's activities. (and who doesn't love shots of dew covered insects?!?)

But where this really gets questionable is what happens after the shoot? If the insect has not had sufficient time to re-warm itself, it could be returned to the wild in a sluggish state which leaves it vulnerable to predation. One would argue that if you are going to use this technique, that you should be prepared with a re-warming setup with heat lamps and potentially food and water sources for the insect to be able to be returned to the wild in a best condition as possible.

There are many more arguments to be made here, but in the spirit of keeping things light, I'll stop there.

As a photographer, I strive to have no impact on my subjects so that while I certainly want my viewers to enjoy my photos, I don't want to contribute to a situation where that is the only way to observe said subject. You know - that whole 'leave only footprints, take only photos' kind of idea.

- Bill

[maloufn]

A lot of the top insect pros use a refrigerator for their stunning photos.

Catch the insect and cool it. Then shoot in a studio with perfect lighting and controlled background.

But I shoot in the wild for identification; which means getting identifiable photos of everything that comes my way. And knowing which parts of an insect are required for identification is part of the skill.

There are a few tricks for using a tripod in dense undergrowth.

I use the Manfrotto Ball Head (pistol grip) but have reversed the attachment so that I can align the lens with my left hand while my right is always ready to take the shot.

Geoff funny you mentioned cooling active insects down to shhot. I actually did that a few months ago. I did slow it down knowing the fact these are not hurt by such a process but would allow me to get my shots. While shooting the fly slowly but surely it warmed up and I was happy it just flew away unharmed.

I like the idea of the Manfotto ballhead. I regret getting a three way head now.

Nasseem

[Katy Noelle]

Is that not cruelty? I think I would define it as such.

Whereas, us flower shooters just CUT and kill cruelly!

[maloufn]

Whereas, us flower shooters just CUT and kill cruelly!

True Katy. We never think of that do we. We cut branches, pluck flowers and throw lobsters into boiling water. I always think of that.
Its a shame they cant sream back.

Nasseem

[maloufn]

It certainly is a questionable morality issue.

Theoretically, if done properly, it will not harm the insect. Because insects are exothermic, it simply causes them to slow down their metabolism, much the same as happens every night as the temperatures drop. This is why many other pro insect shooters will work in the early morning hours before the insects have had the time to bask and warm up for their day's activities. (and who doesn't love shots of dew covered insects?!?)



But where this really gets questionable is what happens after the shoot? If the insect has not had sufficient time to re-warm itself, it could be returned to the wild in a sluggish state which leaves it vulnerable to predation. One would argue that if you are going to use this technique, that you should be prepared with a re-warming setup with heat lamps and potentially food and water sources for the insect to be able to be returned to the wild in a best condition as possible.

There are many more arguments to be made here, but in the spirit of keeping things light, I'll stop there.

As a photographer, I strive to have no impact on my subjects so that while I certainly want my viewers to enjoy my photos, I don't want to contribute to a situation where that is the only way to observe said subject. You know - that whole 'leave only footprints, take only photos' kind of idea.

- Bill

Bill the biological term is Ectotherm or poikilotherm ie cold blooded not exotherm as opposed to homeotherm or hot blooded whose body temperature remains constant as long as the ambient temperature remains within a certain range or zone of tolerance.

Nasseem

Nasseem

[ktuli]

Bill the biological term is Ectotherm or poikilotherm ie cold blooded not exotherm as opposed to homeotherm or hot blooded whose body temperature remains constant as long as the ambient temperature remains within a certain range or zone of tolerance.

Ooops! You're most certainly correct there. That was my biology and chemistry terms getting crossed in my brain! Exo and Ecto are so close sounding! Thanks for the correction. I hate providing misinformation.

- Bill

[maloufn]

Ooops! You're most certainly correct there. That was my biology and chemistry terms getting crossed in my brain! Exo and Ecto are so close sounding! Thanks for the correction. I hate providing misinformation.

- Bill

We all make mistakes. I knew what you meant anyway but others may not.

Nasseem

[Donald]

We all make mistakes. I knew what you meant anyway but others may not.

I didn't know what any of them meant. But then I was a miserable failure at science subjects at school.

[Katy Noelle]

You know - that whole 'leave only footprints, ....

- Bill

Actually, when I see a big ol' spider in my house, I leave a big footprint!

Tom has reminded me that you can freeze a tick for ten years and, at the end, it will be hunky-dory alive and well. absolute YECH!

[Geoff F]

Whether chilling insects is cruel has been debated in depth on a wildlife forum that I use. As one person said 'It is probably better for the insect than killing them to obtain an identification.

But the biggest problem that I have to encounter when walking in the woods or along the cliff top is how to carry the refrigerator; and that is a mighty long electricity lead!

I have tried using a 'spider pot' for close up viewing/photographing in the wild but found that some species just rip through the plastic membrane top covering. A 'pooter' is an alternative but I suspect that the curved sides would produce distorted photographic results.

So far I have managed to avoid killing anything but I find that when working in 'the real world' some species are virtually impossible to identify correctly to species level from photos, even good really close photos.

With common species, there isn't really any need to correctly identify every one; but is it good environmental practice to kill the rarer species in order to identify them?

[maloufn]

Whether chilling insects is cruel has been debated in depth on a wildlife forum that I use. As one person said 'It is probably better for the insect than killing them to obtain an identification.

But the biggest problem that I have to encounter when walking in the woods or along the cliff top is how to carry the refrigerator; and that is a mighty long electricity lead!

I have tried using a 'spider pot' for close up viewing/photographing in the wild but found that some species just rip through the plastic membrane top covering. A 'pooter' is an alternative but I suspect that the curved sides would produce distorted photographic results.

So far I have managed to avoid killing anything but I find that when working in 'the real world' some species are virtually impossible to identify correctly to species level from photos, even good really close photos.

With common species, there isn't really any need to correctly identify every one; but is it good environmental practice to kill the rarer species in order to identify them?

Geoff sometimes it just has to be done. You cant put a live insect under a disecting microscope if that is what is needed to do a proper genus species identification.

Nasseem

[maloufn]

I didn't know what any of them meant. But then I was a miserable failure at science subjects at school.

Donald you cant be good at everything!!!

Nasseem

[ktuli]

Sorry to interrupt - I promise we can get right back to talking about bugs shortly here.

My new question is what do people prefer for firing their strobes in these setups? Some I've seen have the cords while others have wireless setups. Can anyone share their experiences?

Thanks!

- Bill

[maloufn]

Sorry to interrupt - I promise we can get right back to talking about bugs shortly here.

My new question is what do people prefer for firing their strobes in these setups? Some I've seen have the cords while others have wireless setups. Can anyone share their experiences?

Thanks!

- Bill

Bill Ive been using on camera flash in all my shots to date and that is probably why they arent as good as they
could be. I have recently got a sync cord so I can get my flash off the camera which I have not used yet
and on the way I am getting some cheap wireless triggers which I SHOULD RECEIVE ANY DAY NOW. I will
need those later on anyway if I am to do portraits etc. I am sure either would work but why pay for both
when you can just get the wireless trigger/receiver. These can be cheap and still do the job. Pocket
Wizards cost hundreds of dollars but have the advantage of ETTL as far as I know.

Nasseem

[Katy Noelle]

Sorry to interrupt - I promise we can get right back to talking about bugs shortly here.

Oh, dear.... just to interrupt, again, to say that I don't think that they're talking to me about bugs anymore. I'll be lucky if they talk to me, at all, now. Okay, now, you guys can go on talking about strobes and wireless setups.