Filters

[Colin Southern]

I think a Cokin (good buy at BH) with a filter is going to be a good option as opposed to screw in.

Lee is better quality, but either is better than screw-in GND filters. Screw-in GND filters are next to useless because you can't adjust the transition zone relative to the lens, although ND and CP are fine.

[lizzy310]

Hi Colin...I am getting a Cannon D60 and am researching everything I may want in my camera bag. I looked at the link for the GND filters. So there are not things that you screw on to a lens. You just try and hold them in place with your fingers? Not sure how my big fingers would do if that is the case.I liked the sample photo on the site. It does make a difference. I am having a blast surfing through all the threads on here. Learning a lot as I go. I am thinking I need some kind of filter to protect my lenses too. Kind of a klutz, and want to take all precautions with this new equipment.

Better known as a GND or Graduated Neutral Density filter, it's basically a filter you put in front of the lens that's darker at the top - just like those graduated sunglasses that were all the rage 35 years ago.

Here's the ones I use ...

http://www.singh-ray.com/grndgrads.html

[rpcrowe]

When I shoot in the harsh sunlight of the Southwest United States, I like to use a CPL. Not so much to darken the sky (which can be and often is overdone) but to reduce reflections on the rocks and the foliage. The reduction of the reflections will provide more saturated color. You can see the difference viewing through the viewfinder. Unfortunately, I don't have any "with" and "without" examples to post.

[Colin Southern]

I looked at the link for the GND filters. So there are not things that you screw on to a lens. You just try and hold them in place with your fingers?

Hi Liz,

No, they slide into a holder (although you can hold them for shorter exposures) (or use a rubber band / tape).

There are two main sorts - Cokin & Lee; Cokin are cheaper, and Lee are generally regarded as being higher quality (but more expensive)

I use the Lee ones ...

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...ndard_4x4.html

(keep in mind that you also need an adaptor ring)

[Sam Smith]

http://www.dpreview.com/news/1107/11...okinbuyout.asp KENKO-TOKINA acquires COKIN Filters. Wonder what will come from it? I went to look at them and this what the camera store clerk said. They also said it was not able to get the same filters as before and to wait and see what happens. Just food for thought and to see if anyone else has been told the same thing.

[Donald]

http://www.dpreview.com/news/1107/11...okinbuyout.asp KENKO-TOKINA acquires COKIN Filters. Wonder what will come from it? I went to look at them and this what the camera store clerk said. They also said it was not able to get the same filters as before and to wait and see what happens. Just food for thought and to see if anyone else has been told the same thing.

Sam - At the time of the annoucement, both parties were saying that Cokin will retain its own identity and independence in terms of product development and marketing. Now that, of course, may all be business hype designed to appease the stock-market and the consumers.

[Markvetnz]

There is a 3rd option that I don't think anyone has mentioned yet, and that's to take 2 shots -- one exposed for the ideal sky, and one for the ideal foreground / mid-ground - and then combine the two in post-processing. Again, no "right or wrong" - just different tools that incidentally, also require different skill sets to execute well. Personally, I prefer to get it right in-camera whenever possible as it's less work, and gives the highest possible image to work with in post-processing.

I use this option occasionally. You don't reaqlly have to even take 2 shots. Just use the acr exposure slider to adjust for lights and darks on 2 of the same picture. Combine the 2 in separate layers and then apply a gradient filter in post processing. I do often use GND's and a reverse GND whick I really like too.

[Colin Southern]

I use this option occasionally. You don't reaqlly have to even take 2 shots. Just use the acr exposure slider to adjust for lights and darks on 2 of the same picture. Combine the 2 in separate layers and then apply a gradient filter in post processing. I do often use GND's and a reverse GND whick I really like too.

Hi Mark,

Have you tried using the GND tool in ACR? - it essentially does the same thing, but without having to process into 2 seperate files. Just press "G" from within ACR, and drag the filter across the portion of the image you want it to apply to.

The only downside with doing it from a single exposure is there isn't any dynamic range compression (filters) or extension (bracketed exposures) - so if the scene has a high dynamic range, you're likely to see noise in the shadows.

[Colin Southern]

I use this option occasionally. You don't reaqlly have to even take 2 shots. Just use the acr exposure slider to adjust for lights and darks on 2 of the same picture. Combine the 2 in separate layers and then apply a gradient filter in post processing. I do often use GND's and a reverse GND whick I really like too.

Hi Mark,

Have you tried using the GND tool in ACR? - it essentially does the same thing, but without having to process into 2 seperate files. Just press "G" from within ACR, and drag the filter across the portion of the image you want it to apply to.

The only downside with doing it from a single exposure is there isn't any dynamic range compression (filters) or extension (bracketed exposures) - so if the scene has a high dynamic range, you're likely to see noise in the shadows.

[RockNGoalStar]

Have you tried using the GND tool in ACR? - it essentially does the same thing, but without having to process into 2 seperate files. Just press "G" from within ACR, and drag the filter across the portion of the image you want it to apply to.

OMG! How have I never spotted this before?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! What an unbelievable tool!

Thanks Colin!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Colin Southern]

OMG! How have I never spotted this before?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! What an unbelievable tool!

Thanks Colin!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sorry Tommy, but that's just for Mark - you're not allowed to use it

If you're serious about getting everything out of ACR, I'd suggest getting a copy of Real World Camera RAW for CS5 (or better still, install the kindle reader on your PC and be reading it in about 5 minutes from now).

[RockNGoalStar]

I'm going to buy that! Thanks again Colin

[lizzy310]

OK...you guys are all WAY over my head. I was just wondering what to do about that hazy brightness that happens on those sort of hot, maybe slightly smoggy summer days. I have been wishing I could use something on my G10 since I had it. How do you adjust for that kind of thing? Filters? Changing the settings? Like I said...I am a total newbie, and the more I look at the photos on here the more I know it!

Hi Liz,

No, they slide into a holder (although you can hold them for shorter exposures) (or use a rubber band / tape).

There are two main sorts - Cokin & Lee; Cokin are cheaper, and Lee are generally regarded as being higher quality (but more expensive)

I use the Lee ones ...

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...ndard_4x4.html

(keep in mind that you also need an adaptor ring)

[Dave Humphries]

I was just wondering what to do about that hazy brightness that happens on those sort of hot, maybe slightly smoggy summer days. I have been wishing I could use something on my G10 since I had it. How do you adjust for that kind of thing?

Hi Liz,

If you have Elements and you shoot RAW, that would be with the Blacks slider in ACR, or moving the black point in Levels, but I may also be talking gobbledygook.

I think the best advice is have a go yourself and when you hit a specific problem, ask us then, with an example image, and we can give a targeted answer and not overload you with too much information.

Cheers,

[lizzy310]

I will do that. It is easy to get overloaded on here.

Hi Liz,

If you have Elements and you shoot RAW, that would be with the Blacks slider in ACR, or moving the black point in Levels, but I may also be talking gobbledygook.

I think the best advice is have a go yourself and when you hit a specific problem, ask us then, with an example image, and we can give a targeted answer and not overload you with too much information.

Cheers,

[Dave Humphries]

I will do that. It is easy to get overloaded on here.

It is a very steep learning curve when you start out.

[Colin Southern]

OK...you guys are all WAY over my head. I was just wondering what to do about that hazy brightness that happens on those sort of hot, maybe slightly smoggy summer days. I have been wishing I could use something on my G10 since I had it. How do you adjust for that kind of thing? Filters? Changing the settings? Like I said...I am a total newbie, and the more I look at the photos on here the more I know it!

Hi Lizzie,

First up, DON'T WORRY! Yes, it is a lot to take in - but it's all quite learnable. The technical side of photography can be VERY technical, but if we take it one step at a time - and let you put that one step into practice - then you'll pick it up no sweat (often people don't believe me when I say that, but it's true). Off the top of my head, I can't recall any "failures" we've had here.

Second up, keep in mind that no camera produces the perfect shot; capturing an image is always one step -- processing it to look it's best is ALWAYS another step. As Dave alluded to, adjustments to exposure / brightness / shadows in PP (post-processing) are all basic requirements of any image.

Probably the best thing I can think of is start a thread and post some of your own images, and let us show you what we can do to improve it

[lizzy310]

Thanks Colin... All I have now have been taken with my little G10, and without post processing. So much to learn! I have Elements, but haven't done much with it yet. I think there is a good site to learn all about those programs called vtc.com (video training college or something). My friend learned Illustrator on there in 2 months. It costs about $30 for a month and they take you through all kinds of programs step by step. I had better get on there now and learn my Elements and start practicing. By the way, I visited your site and absolutely love your landscapes. Beautiful sunsets and sailboats. I especially love the one that has all the little lights that look like stars throughout the whole sailboat line.

Hi Lizzie,

First up, DON'T WORRY! Yes, it is a lot to take in - but it's all quite learnable. The technical side of photography can be VERY technical, but if we take it one step at a time - and let you put that one step into practice - then you'll pick it up no sweat (often people don't believe me when I say that, but it's true). Off the top of my head, I can't recall any "failures" we've had here.

Second up, keep in mind that no camera produces the perfect shot; capturing an image is always one step -- processing it to look it's best is ALWAYS another step. As Dave alluded to, adjustments to exposure / brightness / shadows in PP (post-processing) are all basic requirements of any image.

Probably the best thing I can think of is start a thread and post some of your own images, and let us show you what we can do to improve it

[Colin Southern]

Thanks Colin... All I have now have been taken with my little G10, and without post processing. So much to learn! I have Elements, but haven't done much with it yet. I think there is a good site to learn all about those programs called vtc.com (video training college or something). My friend learned Illustrator on there in 2 months. It costs about $30 for a month and they take you through all kinds of programs step by step. I had better get on there now and learn my Elements and start practicing. By the way, I visited your site and absolutely love your landscapes. Beautiful sunsets and sailboats. I especially love the one that has all the little lights that look like stars throughout the whole sailboat line.

Hi Liz,

Thanks for the kind words

Another good site (well, excellent site in fact) is www.kelbytraining.com.

Just pop a new thread into the system when you're ready, and we'll help you get the most out of your images.

[Markvetnz]

Hi Mark,

Have you tried using the GND tool in ACR? - it essentially does the same thing, but without having to process into 2 seperate files. Just press "G" from within ACR, and drag the filter across the portion of the image you want it to apply to.

The only downside with doing it from a single exposure is there isn't any dynamic range compression (filters) or extension (bracketed exposures) - so if the scene has a high dynamic range, you're likely to see noise in the shadows.

Hi Colin - I use the gradient tool in ACR occasionally. I agree its better to use 2 images to increase the DR, but if you're absolutely stuck then yuo can get away using a single duplicated image image. I still prefer using a GND on camera though - more fun!!