Adjusting For Wind

Mary,

Frankly, you just have to stop pussy-footing around with these shots. Just cut the darn thing off and shoot it indoors, or better still, dig up the whole plant (or just pull it out) :eek::eek::eek::eek:

Jut kidding of course -- tell you what though -- I was trying a tricky shot in a public park the other day, and some flowers / branches were in the way -- and the model started breaking them all off before I could get her to stop!

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Originally Posted by ktuli

Unless you're shooting in a hurricane, I think 1/4000s is a little aggressive on the shutter speed. You can probably scale that back a little and stop the aperture down a little for a bit more DoF.

- Bill

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By the time I got back out and started again, the sun was straight overhead and the clouds had floated away. I kept slowly stepping up the shutter speed. All the images with a slower shutter speed were totallly blown out. No hurricane today.:D Now, I keep saying you have to speak slowly as I am easily confused today... the whole scale back and stop the aperture down... do mean go from 2.8 to a lower number like 2.2? :o I was trying to listen to Colin and not lose focus on the flower. I maybe should've kept the camera inside today.;)

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Originally Posted by Colin Southern

Mary,

Frankly, you just have to stop pussy-footing around with these shots. Just cut the darn thing off and shoot it indoors, or better still, dig up the whole plant (or just pull it out) :eek::eek::eek::eek:

Jut kidding of course -- tell you what though -- I was trying a tricky shot in a public park the other day, and some flowers / branches were in the way -- and the model started breaking them all off before I could get her to stop!

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I usually do just that, but then the whole lighting variable... :) I'm trying to step outside my comfort zone.:o Besides, I didn't know if I should cut flowers from bushes that belong to a haunted house.:eek:

Hi Mary,

I have a slight different style in that I see no purpose in using manual mode – I know others here prefer to use it but why make things harder than they need to be. If shutter speed is the issue, which it is in this case, then switch to Tv (time value) or Shutter priority. This is the other side of Aperture Priority. It is a semi automatic mode and like Aperture priority it will automatically adjust the aperture for each adjustment to your shutter speed so no more white outs.

For fast moving flowers on a winding just dial it up to 2000th or 4000th of a second and that should do. If you cannot get the shutter speed you need, as the other have said just increase the ISO.

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Originally Posted by Peter Ryan

Hi Mary,

I have a slight different style in that I see no purpose in using manual mode – I know others here prefer to use it but why make things harder than they need to be. If shutter speed is the issue, which it is in this case, then switch to Tv (time value) or Shutter priority. This is the other side of Aperture Priority. It is a semi automatic mode and like Aperture priority it will automatically adjust the aperture for each adjustment to your shutter speed so no more white outs.

For fast moving flowers on a winding just dial it up to 2000th or 4000th of a second and that should do. If you cannot get the shutter speed you need, as the other have said just increase the ISO.

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Another point of view :eek: I haven't used shutter priority much at all.:rolleyes: It makes sense. It all makes sense until I'm out there and know what I'd like it to look like... practice, practice, practice.:)

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Originally Posted by ilovelucydog

By the time I got back out and started again, the sun was straight overhead and the clouds had floated away. I kept slowly stepping up the shutter speed. All the images with a slower shutter speed were totallly blown out. No hurricane today.:D Now, I keep saying you have to speak slowly as I am easily confused today... the whole scale back and stop the aperture down... do mean go from 2.8 to a lower number like 2.2? :o I was trying to listen to Colin and not lose focus on the flower. I maybe should've kept the camera inside today.;)

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If you're in M, try whatever aperture you originally wanted (maybe f/8 or f/11?), then try 1/1000 or 1/500 for your shutter speed. And then bump up the ISO until your exposure is acceptable (or set ISO to auto and let the camera choose it for you). Generally, when someone says "stop down the apeture" they mean to use a smaller aperture opening or larger f/#.

Today is the best day to take the camera out. As Mark Wallace said in his video today (about 12 minutes in) while quoting Sir Ken Robinson (here are two TED talks by him: 1 & 2) in saying "Fail early, fail often, fail with purpose." Basically meaning that the only way you learn is by failing, and if you're failing it is because you are pushing the envelope of your abilities and as such are putting yourself in a position to learn. If you're not failing, you're playing it too safe, and that's boring. So like I said, today is the best day to take the camera out.

- Bill

Ok, few things.

1. "Stop down" means to close the aperture down to a smaller setting. Which means a bigger f-number. Just remember that apertures are given as ratios (fractions). You know how 1/8 is smaller than 1/2? In a similar (though not exact) way, f/8 is smaller than f/2. [techspeak, f-number = focal length / aperture diameter, therefore, your aperture diameter can be (and usually is) given as the ratio: focal length / f-number, or f/#].

2. What Av/A and TV/S and P and the auto modes haven't yet taught you is to look at your meter all the time. (white frame? Done that. Black frame? So many many times). The auto modes automatically maneuver your settings so that needle is always sitting on "0". In Manual mode, you get to tell the camera where you want the needle to sit. This is its power: if you disagree with the camera's auto-exposure system, you can tell it to shut up and get out of your way by using Manual mode.

3. If you are shooting wide open, you are going to have to pay special attention to focus. And with stuff waving about in the breeze, and a very shallow DoF, you may have to time when something's sharp. I love the colors and exposure you got on that rose, but to me it looks a leetle front-focused. Unless you wanted the leaf to be the sharpest part of the picture, not the blossom. Stopping down a little could give you enough DoF to make precise focusing less critical, but still blur out your background. Remember the reason your background's blurred is that it's out of focus. You can get anything out of focus. Just remember this is a feature, not a bug. :D

4. Stops are stops. A stop is simply a doubling of the light. It's 1EV. Exposure-wise, doubling your iso is like using a shutter speed that's twice as long, is like opening up your aperture one full stop on the f-number scale. Your light meter is marking stuff out in stops. So is your histogram. So you can translate the settings each to the others and make your DoF/noise/blur tradeoffs as you see fit.

As you say, practice will make it all easier. Remember a lot of us have had 20+ years of practice at this, so we can make it sound like it's sooooo easy. But we're not brain surgeons or rocket scientists, either (well, I'm not). You can do this, too! :D

Thank you, Kathy. I know it. It all makes sense. It's just making it work. Nope, the leaf wasn't suppose to be sharpest point. The darn thing wouldn't stop moving.:D

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Originally Posted by Peter Ryan

I have a slight different style in that I see no purpose in using manual mode – I know others here prefer to use it but why make things harder than they need to be.

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Hi Peter,

In real-world terms, manual exposure buys you consistency. Automatic metering modes are easily fooled - expecially with macro and other shots where one particular tone tends to dominate the scene; so with automatic exposure one has to work out how much exposure compensation is required - and then do that for each end every shot. With manual, once you've worked out what's needed for a good exposure (assuming that the sun isn't going to change it's intensity, and that it's not going to be obscured by clouds off and on) then you can pretty much "set and forget", knowing that ALL the shots taken under those lighting conditions will have totally consistent exposures, and thus give you an excellent time-saving place to start in post processing if you have a whole lot to process.

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If shutter speed is the issue, which it is in this case, then switch to Tv (time value) or Shutter priority. This is the other side of Aperture Priority. It is a semi automatic mode and like Aperture priority it will automatically adjust the aperture for each adjustment to your shutter speed so no more white outs.

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Unfortunately, aperture then becomes a lottery, which is likely to affect the image to a far greater degree. eg if the shutterspeed varied over a 4 stop range from 1/500th to 1/8000th then I doubt you'd see any difference in the image -- yet if the aperture varied from F2.8 to F11, I expect you'd see a BIG difference in DoF. Admittedly one can still vary the ISO to get the aperture needed, but usually aperture control is what people need first and foremost -- so probably easier for most to control their DoF first in Av mode, and then just bring up the shutterspeed using the ISO controls.

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For fast moving flowers on a winding just dial it up to 2000th or 4000th of a second and that should do. If you cannot get the shutter speed you need, as the other have said just increase the ISO.

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Problem with doing that is it practically guarantees a wide-open aperture, and minimal DoF.

Mary,

Keep in mind that even in manual-exposure mode, the metering still works -- it just switchesd from a "full authority" mode to an "advisory" one. If you're still set for manual from a previous colud-covered shoot - and now it's clear skies, the meter will be hard off to the right -- so you then need to adjust something to bring it back closer to the centre.

When I retire I'll do a world-tour teaching these things in exchange for a pillow and a couch!

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Originally Posted by Colin Southern

Mary,

Keep in mind that even in manual-exposure mode, the metering still works -- it just switchesd from a "full authority" mode to an "advisory" one. If you're still set for manual from a previous colud-covered shoot - and now it's clear skies, the meter will be hard off to the right -- so you then need to adjust something to bring it back closer to the centre.

When I retire I'll do a world-tour teaching these things in exchange for a pillow and a couch!

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I'll give you a room with a bed, sheets, blankets, fluffy down pillows,shower, a closet, a television, internet, breakfast, lunch, dinner, desserts, snacks, coffee or tea, wine, beer or whatever is your pleasure and anything I have forgotten that would make you stay enjoyable. When can you come?:D

In your next to last post (no, I still can't quote properly... I'm sorry...fail) you said "Admittedly one can still vary the ISO to get the aperture needed How does the ISO relate to the aperture?:(

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Originally Posted by ilovelucydog

How does the ISO relate to the aperture?:(

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Hi Mary,

It all has to do with the exposure trilogy – Aperture, Shutter and ISO. They are all related. Please read the following slowly and take each bit in as you go.

The camera’s light meter gives you the correct exposure reading for a given image (albeit it sometimes needs some fine tuning but let’s leave that for now) and the Shutter (in the camera body) and Aperture (in each lens) manage the amount of light required to record the image according to the light meter reading.

The Shutter controls Time in photography (hence Tv = Time Value) and allows you to freeze the action (with fast shutter speeds) or show movement with blur (at slower shutter speeds). The shutter speed required will depend on how fast the subject is moving and also whether it is moving across your vision or towards/away from you (there is a good tutorial here on this subject).

The Aperture controls the Quantity of light allowed to enter the lens. The aperture is used to control Depth of Field (that part of the image that is sharp in a photo).

As I said the light meter tells you how much light is required to record an image correctly exposed and if you are using either of the semi automatic modes of Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority the camera adjusts these to allow you the correct exposure. Now it does not have unforeseen powers so it just starts off by selecting settings based on the last time you used the camera. So if you were in Aperture priority and using, say, f8 as your aperture then the camera would set a shutter speed to permit the correct exposure for the new subject based on f8.

There is a reciprocal relationship between Aperture and Shutter so if you change one then the other one will change to compensate and maintain correct exposure. For example, if you moved the aperture from f8 to say f11 (one stop less light) then the shutter would need to stay open longer to compensate and so the camera would automatically adjust the shutter to be one stop slower (to let in more light and maintain the correct exposure).

So to your question. The ISO represents Quality control in photography and adjusts the sensitivity of the digital sensor (the recording medium) to light. At ISO 100 or 200 the image quality is good because it needs more light to record an image at these lower levels. As you increase the sensor to 400, 800 or 1600 the sensor does not needs as much light to record an image but the quality deteriorates.

So putting it all together, if you are using Aperture priority but cannot get the Shutter speed you need to freeze the subject, based on the Aperture size you want to use (i.e. to get a certain DOF), then if you increase the ISO setting (making the sensor more sensitive to light - meaning it does not need as much light to record an image) then you do not need to leave the shutter open as long to maintain correct exposure so you can obtain a faster shutter speed. The camera adjusts the shutter for you when you change the ISO setting so again you do not need to do anything special.

Of the trilogy Aperture, Shutter and ISO you have told the camera that the most important one for you at this time is Aperture by choosing Aperture Priority so if you change the ISO you do not want the Aperture to change so the camera adjust the shutter to maintain correct exposure.

If you were in Shutter Priority (telling the camera this is the most important on of the three for you) then any change in the ISO would adjust the Aperture setting.

I hope this helps.

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Originally Posted by Peter Ryan

It all has to do with the exposure trilogy – Aperture, Shutter and ISO ...

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Good write-up Peter!

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Originally Posted by ilovelucydog

I'll give you a room with a bed, sheets, blankets, fluffy down pillows,shower, a closet, a television, internet, breakfast, lunch, dinner, desserts, snacks, coffee or tea, wine, beer or whatever is your pleasure and anything I have forgotten that would make you stay enjoyable. When can you come?:D

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I'm driving to the airport as we speak ... best offer I've had for a long time!

Thanks Colin.

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Originally Posted by Colin Southern

I'm driving to the airport as we speak ... best offer I've had for a long time!

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I can hardly wait! I will having photographic skills that'll make people envious. ;) Fly into Norfolk... I'll be there at the curb to pick you up... look for NH license plates that say ' LUCY&ME'. ;)

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Originally Posted by Peter Ryan

Hi Mary,

It all has to do with the exposure trilogy – Aperture, Shutter and ISO. They are all related. Please read the following slowly and take each bit in as you go.

The camera’s light meter gives you the correct exposure reading for a given image (albeit it sometimes needs some fine tuning but let’s leave that for now) and the Shutter (in the camera body) and Aperture (in each lens) manage the amount of light required to record the image according to the light meter reading.

The Shutter controls Time in photography (hence Tv = Time Value) and allows you to freeze the action (with fast shutter speeds) or show movement with blur (at slower shutter speeds). The shutter speed required will depend on how fast the subject is moving and also whether it is moving across your vision or towards/away from you (there is a good tutorial here on this subject).

The Aperture controls the Quantity of light allowed to enter the lens. The aperture is used to control Depth of Field (that part of the image that is sharp in a photo).

As I said the light meter tells you how much light is required to record an image correctly exposed and if you are using either of the semi automatic modes of Aperture Priority or Shutter Priority the camera adjusts these to allow you the correct exposure. Now it does not have unforeseen powers so it just starts off by selecting settings based on the last time you used the camera. So if you were in Aperture priority and using, say, f8 as your aperture then the camera would set a shutter speed to permit the correct exposure for the new subject based on f8.

There is a reciprocal relationship between Aperture and Shutter so if you change one then the other one will change to compensate and maintain correct exposure. For example, if you moved the aperture from f8 to say f11 (one stop less light) then the shutter would need to stay open longer to compensate and so the camera would automatically adjust the shutter to be one stop slower (to let in more light and maintain the correct exposure).

So to your question. The ISO represents Quality control in photography and adjusts the sensitivity of the digital sensor (the recording medium) to light. At ISO 100 or 200 the image quality is good because it needs more light to record an image at these lower levels. As you increase the sensor to 400, 800 or 1600 the sensor does not needs as much light to record an image but the quality deteriorates.

So putting it all together, if you are using Aperture priority but cannot get the Shutter speed you need to freeze the subject, based on the Aperture size you want to use (i.e. to get a certain DOF), then if you increase the ISO setting (making the sensor more sensitive to light - meaning it does not need as much light to record an image) then you do not need to leave the shutter open as long to maintain correct exposure so you can obtain a faster shutter speed. The camera adjusts the shutter for you when you change the ISO setting so again you do not need to do anything special.

Of the trilogy Aperture, Shutter and ISO you have told the camera that the most important one for you at this time is Aperture by choosing Aperture Priority so if you change the ISO you do not want the Aperture to change so the camera adjust the shutter to maintain correct exposure.

If you were in Shutter Priority (telling the camera this is the most important on of the three for you) then any change in the ISO would adjust the Aperture setting.

I hope this helps.

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Thank you, Peter. I better read it through a few more times... after more coffee and a shower.:D

If learning from books works for you, you could also go and find Bryan Peterson's Understanding Exposure. :)

Its a camera, not nuclear waste, nothing to be afraid. I delete more than I keep on a regular basis. Heck, quite often I'm shooting something boring and dull and my only intention is practice and seeing what happens when I do this and that. I want all that mystery out of the way, so when I'm at something good or onto something good and you know you've only got a limited amount of time, you've got a better idea of whats going to work. I'm trying to train myself to learn to think like a camera. :confused:

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Originally Posted by djg05478

Its a camera, not nuclear waste, nothing to be afraid. I delete more than I keep on a regular basis. Heck, quite often I'm shooting something boring and dull and my only intention is practice and seeing what happens when I do this and that. I want all that mystery out of the way, so when I'm at something good or onto something good and you know you've only got a limited amount of time, you've got a better idea of whats going to work. I'm trying to train myself to learn to think like a camera. :confused:

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This woman "gets" it! ... well done Debbie!