Thanks for the TS-E examples. Great job with getting the perspective dead on (parallel verticals). I am assuming that this is the 24 mm TS-E Mark I model?
Also, if you are using this lens at max shift, it's highly recommended to user an aperture smaller than f/8, such as f/11-f/16 depending on whether you're using a full frame camera or not. On a Canon 5D, for example, there's a noticeable improvement at the edges of the imaging circle with f/16 versus larger apertures.
Thanks for the quick response McQ!
You are right, it's still the Mark I. I borrowed it from an other photographer.
Indeed I use a 5D so fullframe.
Next time I will try with smaller aperture as you mention.
Best regards
Hans
On the other hand, the direction of shift was upwards (towards the sky). For your image there's pretty much just clear sky and smooth texture in the far corners, so quality changes due to lens aperture will be less apparent. You ought to still see some softening at the top of the building though...
I noticed the softness at the top as well.
Has this someting to do with focussing or will the use of smaller aperture fix this?
Or is this because I shifted to much and reach the limitation of the lens?
The shift moved into the red marked area. As far as I remember the shift was 10.
Best regards
Hans
I think it's primarily a combination of both the max shift and aperture of f/8. On the 5D f/16 ought to improve sharpness noticeably at max shift, but ultimately max shift on such a wide angle lens will always be a little compromised. The whole top portion of the photo is like looking at the edges of the frame on a 16 mm lens when at max shift. The Mark II version of the 24 mm TS-E ought to improve on this noticeably, but it will always be an issue.
That all being said, these are just presumptions. It looks nice and sharp in downsized the photos you've provided...
Assuming one subject, you shoot a clip of bracketed apertures: e.g. F5.6 through to F22 in full stops with your 5D: when you do shoot F16 on a 5D, have a look at the middle 60% of each image.
At F16 you might just find the beginning of diffraction.
Also, if you are into this stuff, have a look at the (difference of) Chromatic Aberration at any one aperture without any tilt and shift vs. with full tilt and / or shift.
WW
Thanks everyone for the feedback
@ Dave Humphries: You mention a tutorial from Sean about this lens.
Can you tell me where to find it? It could be very interesting.
Thanks
Best Regards
Hans Mulders
Hi Hans,
I am not sure of it's applicability to your exact lens, this is the one more to do with DoF
TILT SHIFT LENSES: DEPTH OF FIELD, and there is this too
TILT SHIFT LENSES: PERSPECTIVE CONTROL
Cheers,
Thanks Dave.
Best regards
Hans
Just to let you know that the TS-E 24 is now mine
I bought it from the photographer who borrowed the lens to me for some tri out.
And in the same deal I bought her Gitzo Reporter Perfomance Tripod.
She had not used this lens for about a year and didn't think she might need it on short term.
Total deal 750 euro.
It was an offer I couldn't resist!
And my MoF approved it!!
Congratulations Hans, on your new purchases, I'm looking forward to more pics already.